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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Twinkie (5.12a)
By: randy baum When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i was really looking forward to copping such an iconic rest, but i was very disappointed once i actually sat in it. sitting in the slot is so insecure! i had arm bar/handjam/pinch with my right hand to keep me from sliding out of the slot. i found that double knee bars work much better. either way, what a crazy feature!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Count Floyd Show (5.11b)
By: randy baum When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think count floyd show is rated harder than creep show because the move over the roof/lip on count floyd show is harder than any single move on creep show. also, you get a standing no hands rest on creep show, but not on count floyd show. that's not to say there aren't no hands rests on count floyd show....
regardless of the differences, both climbs are a blast.
btw, one other reason count floyd show might be considered harder is that unlike creep show it doesn't have fixed draws.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Creep Show (5.10d)
By: randy baum When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: sharp edges on plate jugs.
if you're not solid at the grade, stick clip the first bolt.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Moonbeam (5.9)
By: randy baum When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: about 3/4 up the route there is a hold unlike any i have seen. it looks like a short section of say five inch diameter pipe. it's made entirely of bullet hard patina/iron oxide, and it just rests in the back of this large ledge/lip. you can stick your whole hand through it and grab it like an undercling or sidepull. amazing!!!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Tissue Tiger (5.12b)
By: randy baum When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: no no-hands rests.
where jeans for crux move.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Rock Pigs (5.12c/d)
By: randy baum When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: cheers to you ferrels, but i can't use that right-hand gaston beta for the crux. i think it's just best to do the move to the edge.
also, i think the moves above the crux are fun. particularly, i like the moves -- moving off the sloping dish to the pocketed crimps -- from the last bolt to the "anchor" (the leaver biner at the true last bolt).
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Campinini (5.12a)
By: randy baum When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route blows. it's a total circle-jerk-one-move-chossfest of desperation. it's like vice squad covered in rime.
one person told me that this was the first route they did at red wing and that once they redpointed it, they considered never climbing again at red wing because they were afraid the other routes are like this shit pile.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : The Future (5.8)
By: randy baum When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: best line of my life. i wore my brand new 5.10 spires and eco chalk ball for the redpoint!!!!
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Tsunami (5.13a)
By: randy baum When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: no pics? wtf? i'll take care of this...
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : The Choice of a New Generat... (5.11d)
By: randy baum When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: finally climbed this. i didn't lead it, and i'm glad. that rock up high is mo' shitty. i pulled off a shoe box-sized rock right below the lip.
that said, the thing is leadable. just be careful up there...it's almost as manky as the rock at the base of wise guys.
a lead would take small cams, nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Ecclesiastes (5.12a)
By: randy baum When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun line. crack system in the middle reminds me of the lower section (past the crux, before no hands rest and start of the dihedral) of don't bring a knife to a gun fight.
first good/worthwhile piece is a #1 camalot. after that, takes small cams, mainly red and orange TCU's. above the ledge, takes a #3 and a #2 camalot (or just two #2s).
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : A Sinners Last Gift (5.12b/c PG13)
By: randy baum When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i did not climb this route before it was cleaned, but i can say that it is definitely not 12b/c PG13. it's more like 11c.
regardless of the grading, it's a fun route. the crux moves are similar to -- albeit easier than -- those on mr. lean.
for gear, i'd recommend: two #3 camalots (one as first piece, which is about 15 ft up; the other for the upper 5.9 section), and singles from purple TCU to #2 camalot. nuts if you want; i didn't place any.
be wary of rock ... more >>
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Photo
By: randy baum When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: from right to left: looking for lust (crack), annadonia, geriatric/out of control/stylin (seam/dihedral), campinini (blank section), quiet desperation (chalked holds), femme fatale (around the corner).
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Couch Time (5.12c)
By: randy baum When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: longer draw is helpful for for the crux bolt. use the longest petzl, 12in sling, etc. anything longer, however, will result in lots of boinking if you whip.
i've never met someone who likes/tolerates hanging the draws on this. and i think that's because of the crux bolt clip. with the long draw in place, the move is much more "couch."
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Quiet Desperation (5.12d)
By: randy baum When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: quiet desperation climbs a faint arete located thirty feet to the right of femme fatale and twenty feet to the left of stylin/out of control/geriatric sex maniacs from mars.
quiet is, ahem, a desperate, little bugger. the route gets going on the first move, a big throw off a good right hand crimp and an ok left hang crimp/pinch to either a two-finger pocket or a crimp. this move is easier for tall folks. from the pocket, a tenuous move deposits the climber at a rest on a nice edge. getting to t... more >>
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Light My Fire (5.12c/d)
By: randy baum When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: light my fire is located between rock pigs and super high tech jetfighter (the route just to the left of kelly's arete).
the climb got its name because the first ascentionist used a blow torch to dry out the holds between redpoint burns. red wing laughed at this man's delusions, saying, "blow torch, smore norch. these holds will always be greasy and chossy!" with that, engel punched the base of the route, thus creating the great two-finger pocket at its start. that guy has no ethics, brauh.
fo... more >>
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Doppler Effect (5.12a)
By: randy baum When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: john stretch said this route has also been called "splash."
this route stays dry most of the time and is a good choice if you're visiting after a recent storm.
be prepared for the finals holds to be covered in mud.
stick clip helpful for first bolt.
to reach the route, go across to the other side of the river, hike above the falls, the cross back to the base of the route. note: it's easier to cross this upper section if you take your shoes/sandals off and go barefoot.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Crosstown Traffic (5.12-)
By: randy baum When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: when leading, best to use the piton as your first piece. opportunities below that are seldom, and what you do find is poor and hard to place.
above the piton, i used one blue TCU, two yellow TCUs, one red TCU.
wonderful climb. i just wish it was not an eliminate!
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Waves (5.8)
By: randy baum When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: for rappelling, a single 70m reaches the ground.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Arms Race (5.11c)
By: randy baum When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: some say perfection cannot be improved. well, here's my attempt to improve upon a thibbs route description. haha.
arm's race is located about 30 yards north of north tower. the top is just below an eroded area, which, in this case, is a dirt pit filled with gravel and rotten roots. it looks as though water runs through this v-shaped ditch and then down the route's upper dihedral.
the route begins on a small pedestal and then climbs a 20 foot flared crack in solid rock. this section is the crux... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Outlander (5.10c)
By: randy baum When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great way to reach Outlander: Thindependence to Visual Aids, then take the 5.9 overhanging dihedral to the ramp and end at the base of the cave. From there, take Cheap Date to the small alcove/perch ten feet right of Outlander P2's hand traverse. Belay from here. Finish on Outlander's P2.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Face [Bastille] (5.11a)
By: randy baum When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why so little mention of the 11b variation? It's very fun: exposed, and a bit bouldery.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Driving in Duluth (5.11b R)
By: randy baum When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: take 50ft webbing for rap/tr anchor (use on the medium sized pine tree). take 20-30ft webbing for medium sized cam placement east and a bit north of this tree.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Lord of the flies (5.12b/c PG13)
By: randy baum When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed belay at ledge.
Upper portion of the route --which includes the crux-- is protected by two GI's and a pin.
Rest of climb takes nuts and cams to .75 BD.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Christmas Tree Crack (5.10a)
By: randy baum When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: tops out onto a slopey gravel pit.
take long webbing for the rap/TR anchor, which uses a tree and med/large cams or hexes.
due to choss party at the top, best to take descent gully to reach start.
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