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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Wheel of Fortune (5.11b) : Photo
By: Randy When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper (face) section heads up, then left, then up, then back right before topping out.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Randy When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Charles Cole, Maria Cranor, Dan Leichtfuss, 82.
Either rap from the bolt anchor at the end of pitch 2 (100+ feet) or Pitch 3: Continue left on the dike (5.7) to where is meets a ramp system. From here, either climb up and right to the summit, or down and left to eventually reach the ground.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Randy When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty cool photo. Looks pretty good, except that is Echo Rock Parking Area (not Barker Dam).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Castle : The Knight In Shining Armor (5.11b)
By: Randy When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin fingers and fingers to mid-height and then gradually opens up to thin hands at the widest. Seemed a lot longer on the sharp end. 3 of 5 stars.
Bring triples on Green Aliens/Blue TCUs; Yellow Aliens/TCUs; and Red Alien/Orange TCU/Purple Camalot, (9 cams total) and doubles on 0.75 and 1 Camalots (4 cams). A #3 Camalot protects the traverse under the roof to the crack.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Butler Corridor : Dysecdysis (5.11)
By: Randy When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A rap anchor (a sling around a small boulder) can be found down and right of the top out. Several other climbs are on this wall.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Ocean Of Night (aka Out To ... (5.10c)
By: Randy When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route for the first time last weekend (thanks for the recommendation Kris/Randy). It is quite good; maybe 3 of 5 stars. Pro seemed good in the flake (but a little strenuous to place). The thin diagonal seam above the bolt is harder than you expect -- you wouldn't want to blow the lieback moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Comic Book : White Rabbit (5.10a R)
By: Randy When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route, needs gear upgrade. But that isn't a reason to give the route a "bomb." Worth doing while here.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: Randy When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good varied climb. The wide and Chimney sections are pretty easy which detracts from the overall quality. 2 of 5 stars and well worth doing.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : West Tiers : Lee's Health Studio (aka Th... (5.11a/b)
By: Randy When: Apr 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route to the right is called: Henrietta's Day Spa 5.11c *** A very worthwhile route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Ground Up or Shut Up (aka P... (5.11)
By: Randy When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is perhaps better that this route does not begin at the V3 boulder problem (which lies about 7-10 feet to the right). After all, who wants to see bolts on a boulder problem? And, the start to this route is fun even if it is not as hard.
Being average of height, I found the move past the 1st bolt on the uper headwall (4th bolt), to be very reachy -- and as such -- probably the most difficult.
Nearly 5.9+ in difficulty.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Astroturf (5.10d)
By: Randy When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for chimming in Ed. And it seems that this route was mistakenly reported as 5.11b originally instead of 5.12b (which is pretty close to the real grade). I don't really doubt that Keith and Ed did climbed the route (and I don't think my comments suggest otherwise).
Like Bob, maybe Ed could verify what I recall Keith telling me -- that the belay was put in, before it was fully lead, by climbing up to the roof via what is now referred to as AstroTurf. In fact, I recall Keith asking why I d... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Buffalo Soldier (5.12)
By: Randy When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route is rated 12c. You might want to bring a couple pieces to supplement the bolts (in the crack above 2nd bolt). The other bolted routes to the right are in the guidebook (Joshua Tree West).
One star of 4 or barely 2 stars of 5.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Diarrhea Dome - South Face : The Big Brown Eye (5.11a)
By: Randy When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, I thought the crux was very hard and perhaps more difficult than some other concensus 5.11a's.
I hope to return and replace the bolts (the 1/4 buttonhead at the crux with Leeper hanger -- even though solidly placed -- does not inspire confidence).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto
By: Randy When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: See the Approach Directions for Diarrhea Dome for full beta on getting to the Grotto.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Astroturf (5.10d)
By: Randy When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If Jonny and Henny would agree, I agree with Bob that a 5th bolt should be added (replaced where it was on Power Fingers) to this route. While the old bolts should be replaced in any event, I doubt just having four new bolts will coax anyone into leading it.
The chipped and enhanced holds are very unfortunate indeed (the route would have gone without the heavy handed tactics). But this is a stellar climb in any event.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Astroturf (5.10d)
By: Randy When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though this is a very worthy climb, the actual FA was by Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning in 1981. According to what Keith reported back in 1981, they climbed Figures up to the flake and then traversed left to top-rope -- and apparently establish the bolted belay atop -- the first pitch of Power Fingers (now Repo Man)*.
The flake and second pitch described above (as Bob mentions) were the second and third pitches of Power Fingers. Since Repo Man was (re)-bolted in a manner to make repeat ascents ess... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : The Heap : Bad Fun (5.11a)
By: Randy When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was once a lead route, but the protection bolts were chopped many years ago (who knows why). Anyway it is a TR.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Dial Africa (5.12b/c)
By: Randy When: Dec 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not one of the best routes on the wall, particularly since the bolt placements are poorly located (2nd bolt in particular).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Figures on A Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Randy When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had the distinct honor and pleasure to repeat this route with Dave Evans -- 30 years after our first ascent. The climb has great sustained moves and still demanded our respect. We felt pretty good still being able to climb this -- for a couple old guys.
Using a long runner on the 5th bolt (before making the long traverse right) certainly helps with potential rope drag. No need to put a long sling on the left hand belay bolt (as suggested above). Instead, having the rope clipped to a draw up hig... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Dunce Cap : Spirited Away (5.11b PG13)
By: Randy When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently repeated this route and found it to be as good as I remembered. It has been 2 years since we lost our dear friend Vern. He is still in our thoughts and sorely missed by his friends.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - South Face : ... : Photo
By: Randy When: Dec 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice lycra!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: Randy When: Nov 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I'm not mistaken, Eff Eight is one of the "60 Favorite Climbs." As such, this rather forgettable climb receives many more ascents than it would otherwise deserve. Still, with so many people climbing this route, it is not surprising that someone decided a bolted anchor would be "nice." Similarly, it is not surprising that the bolts are in a poor location.
As one friend of mine aptly observed, convenience anchors are rarely placed where they are truly needed or actually convenient.
They are... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Diamondback (5.10c/d PG13)
By: Randy When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nothing R Rated about this route imo.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Pig in Heat (5.10b X)
By: Randy When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this route a few weeks ago (not direct start -- I was too wimpy). Still, plenty spicy, R/X. The bolt has been relaced with a nice solid 3/8" and small cams are quite helpful in protecting under some of the flakes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : Where Have all the Cowboys ... (5.10d)
By: Randy When: Mar 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is found on the high left part of the northwest side of the Skirt -- the Skirt is the main slab and lower part of Saddle Rocks. The northwest side of the Skirt is the large slabby to steep area to the left side of Right On.
Where Have All The Cowboys Gone begins below and right of the steep arete of The Iconoclast (5.13a) at the base of the large flake/pillar. The first pitch begins at a thin left slanting crack in the middle of the flake.
From there follow the above route descript... more >>
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