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Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: randy baum When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Curious as to which Willow 5.12c is the hardest? Which 13b? Here's a list of Willow routes from easiest to hardest, irrespective of the Mountain Project grade.
This list was compiled by myself and some longtime Willow locals. With only a handful of true lines, climbing at Willow can get repetitive. These lists help keep things fresh. Happy climbing and watch out for falling choss. :)
bit.ly/10CZ3dN
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Play Time Is Over (5.13b)
By: randy baum When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: another rope drag option: use two ropes, switching when you meet up with natural.
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Business Time (5.13b)
By: randy baum When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: hardest 13b at willow. unlike the others, there are no kneebars. business time also takes a small army to equip. probably the best candidate at willow for using two ropes. mega.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : Green Haze (V8)
By: randy baum When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: this looks like a nice line!
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : High Road to China (5.13-)
By: randy baum When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: without some quickdraw jestery, this route has terrible rope drag, as OMG-i-cannot-even-be-lowered rope drag. yea, OMG, bro. OMG.
here's the beta to keep things drama free:
-bring a stick clip
-climb to the first bolt, go in direct, then stick clip draws on the bolts in the middle of roof (long petzl or bd draws work best). make sure your rope is through the first draw in the roof, that way you can lower off that bolt and remove the first bolt on the route (the bolt that is just 15 ft or ... more >>
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Location: WI : Rib Mountain
By: randy baum When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: access to rib mountain is now open. only bouldering, no roped climbing. more info below:
www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWL>>>
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : White Trash (V5)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: to make it full value, do not usethe large boulder/foot below the crux.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Two Shoes Jack (V4)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: next to wmd, my favorite slab v4 at lrc.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Spanky (V8)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: grimace's older, stronger sibling. if that side wall were not there, this would be four stars.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Shotgun (V6)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: not height dependent. just make sure to use all the hand holds. the best one's might be right under your nose.
with local/correct beta, this thing feels like v4.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Out of Africa/Face in the C... (V7)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: agree with jay's comment. this thing felt very, very soft. compare this to deception or cinderella, two other crimpy classics at lrc. face in the crowd is way, way, way easier.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Mystery Machine (V2)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: a stemming slab problem with gastons, underclings, side-pulls, and a jug finish? mega.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Mystery Groove (V4)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: if the two trees were not there, this would be four stars. the wide pinches are amazing! with the trees, however, it's very, very difficult not to dab. i think this would be a perfect problem for a youth climber.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Moustrap (V2 R)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: one move wonder. crux is downclimbing through the thorn bushes.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Life is Goodlett (V6)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: often wet. polished feet.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Kingpin (V6)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: amazing font slopers!!!!
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Junky (V7)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: maybe my favorite 7 at LRC. features every type of hold: a pinch, some crimps, a gaston, pockets (even a mono), an undercling, slab/slopers. very unique crux. challenging for the tall (because of the bottom) and the short (because of the top). love it!
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Incredarete (V1)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: amazing holds.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Heroin (V7)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: it ain't over till it's over on this one.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Hairy Underclings (V3)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: i love this rig! cool grips, smeary feet, and hero pinch jugs at the top out.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Grimace (V8)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the slopers are grimace are rather pebbly and feature some incuts/crimps.
much easier than spanky. less dabby, too. other than that, the problems are very, very similar, down to the first moves.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Galaxy 5000 (V5)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: problem protects very well with just two pads. love the footwork on this one. seriously, i do. it's not just jump to the jug. the moves takes some foot jestery/coordination.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Diesel Power (V5)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: possibly the hardest v5 non-slab problem at lrc.
side note: if your tips are sore, stay away. those side-pulls on the arete bite back.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Cinderella (V7)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: great movement. those pebbly crimps bite back.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Art of the Vogi Left (V6)
By: randy baum When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: crux is not dabbing. this should be one of the last v6's you tick at lrc. so many better lines for that grade.
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