Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: randy baum When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yep, doug. interstate (aka taylors falls) is good to go, as well. (i was there today, in fact.)
in terms of being in harms way of hunters, the problematic areas are sandstone (the bouldering area only), swede's forrest, and the duluth areas, especially the lake county road 6 crags (sawmill, mystic mountain, section 13, ely's). wear orange and be alert!
doug, we need to meet up. i'm planning a trip to dl/madison sometime this winter. there are many problems at the lake that i want to try. i a... more >>
|
Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: randy baum When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: doug, you're correct. the climbing area, which is located at the falls, falls just outside of the hunting area. and aside from the falls, there are no other climbing areas located in the park, so we're in the clear.
|
Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : Lukewarm Persistance (V7)
By: randy baum When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: glad to here it. looks like you had a good visit. we'll try and return the favor and visit DL sometime this winter/fall.
|
Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : Lukewarm Persistance (V7)
By: randy baum When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: you madison folk finally made it up to sawmill?!?
|
Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Side Bouldering : The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi... : B2 Bomber Traverse (V5)
By: randy baum When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: who's done this? i couldn't figure out the beta. i was stopped by some big moves at the start; specifically, i could not get to the OK pocket/crimp that is in the seem and about 6ft right of the slopers on shot down in flames.
|
Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Side Bouldering : The Pit : Humping The Bear (V1-2)
By: randy baum When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Humping Bear is the stand start to Spread Eagle, which is the blunt arete to the right of Twinkletoes. Being with left hand on an undercling, which is on left side of the arete, and right hand on the incut side-pull, which is on the right side of the arete. Your feet will be on or around the large glossy foot sloper that is at waist height. From this position, gun for the slopey top-out. The side pull out left is on.
|
Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Side Bouldering : The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi... : Direct Hit (V3-4)
By: randy baum When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this? Is this the problem that begins to the left of Shot Down in Flames?
|
Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Side Bouldering : The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi... : Shot Down In Flames (V5)
By: randy baum When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You gotta finish right for this thing to be anywhere close to V5. That right variation has very fun, intricate beta. Well, it's intricate for me.
|
Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Side Bouldering : The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi... : Crash Landing (V5)
By: randy baum When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Upon walking into the B2 pit, locate the two crack lines on the right wall. These are Tomcat (V2, left crack line) and Fighting Falcon (V2-3, right crack line). Crash Landing is left of Tomcat.
Crash Landing has a SDS that begins with hands matched in a deep slot and one's left foot toeing down on a large foot hold that is at the same height at the deep slot. Place at pad at the start: the rocks here are sharp, and you are most likely to fall doing the first move. From the slot, move up u... more >>
|
Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Side Bouldering : The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi... : Tomcat (V2)
By: randy baum When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Upon walking into the B2 pit, this is the second crack line on the right. The problem begins with hands matched on a very slick flat jug, you then move upward using the crack, with the occasional left handhold, and ending with a long move off a V-shaped jug at the lip of the wall, where the wall changes from being overhung to slab.
|
Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : Veyron Arete: (Was The Turn... (V10)
By: randy baum When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: there is a SDS for this problem. pi did it yesterday (10/30/2012). he said that while the SDS doesn't change the grade of the original problem, it is a more logical start.
|
Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : Bulldozer (V5-6)
By: randy baum When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sit start on an obvious fat rail, with your left foot on a foot rail that is about knee height and your right foot on a good foot that is just off the ground. Get your right hand to the jug pinch that is on the arete, then get your left hand onto a quartz/white side-pull/undercling that is in the middle of the face. Go straight up from here, avoiding the arete and using the crimps and the left-hand flat jug that are in the middle of the face. Don't fall off the top. That would not feel good.
... more >>
|
Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : Footies (V0 PG13)
By: randy baum When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This boulder is actually a bit uphill from the Exodus boulder. From Exodus, walk right and angle up the hill, cutting between the Exodus boulder and a low-lying boulder. Walk about 10 yards up and to the right and you'll see Footies on your left.
|
Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : Umberger Helper (V5)
By: randy baum When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking at the Exodus boulder, this problem is on the far left-hand side arete. The start holds are on the arete.
|
Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: randy baum When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hi erika,
as long as the temps are 40 and above, you can climb at willow. this means it's possible to climb there nearly every month of the year. during last year's mild winter, for example, i got out twice in february. in a "normal" MN winter, however, the season wraps up in late november and opens again in mid-march.
i'll add this info to the description.
as for finding partners, post on this site, check out the climbing meetup group, or visit any of the local gyms (vertical endeavors two... more >>
|
Location: MN : Robinson Park (Sandstone) : rock climbs : Main Flow Area : Spray (5.11c/d PG13)
By: randy baum When: May 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think jeff gave it PG because if one were to fall in between the traverse and the next bolt, she might swing into the arete/slab. to me, that's the only reason.
|
Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Laceration Jam (5.10b R) : Photo
By: randy baum When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: last summer, a buddy and i met with park officials to discuss upgrading hardware at palisade head. the officials were very open to the idea, with their only stipulation being that any upgrading is done in conjunction with the MCA and that the upgrader has bolting experience.
please feel free to contact the MCA and lend a hand. you could also go it alone, just be sure to first get some training from a someone who has done some bolting.
lastly, and this is very important, please use glue-... more >>
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: randy baum When: Feb 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rhoads, start a forum post. I'm down to help as much as I can being here in Mpls.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: randy baum When: Feb 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree. Rhoads you NEED to make a guide. Here's some suggestions:
-Color pics and topos. Aside from climbing pictures, be sure to include topos/pics of approaches for less-traveled areas and shots of TR set-up locations.
-Ticklists. I.E. Best 5.10 trad leads, Best Slab Climbs, Best OW, Best Finger Cracks, etc. You'd definitely need to make a Best Horror Shows. I'm sure you could write 10 versions of the latter.
-Essays from DFLA and other persons who have had impact on route development... more >>
|
Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Super High Tech Jetfighter (5.12d)
By: randy baum When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: dylan,
the route does move left above the second bolt. those holds on kellye's arete that you mentioned -- including the pocket -- are on. in general, just follow the bolt line and you will be fine.
the red point crux is between the third and fourth bolts. that crux is not as difficult as the boulder problem between the first and second bolts.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: randy baum When: Jan 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: is honnold free soloing equinox in this video? whatever the line, it looks awesome!
climbingnarc.com/videos/nikon-d4-promo-featuring-alex-honnol>>>
|
Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Paul's Boutique (5.13c)
By: randy baum When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'll have to try the move. the crux move on blank man is harder than anything else i've done at red wing, including nsp. that, then, word make blank man 13c. that said, it's pointless to change the grades. they are what they are.
|
Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Chinese Freedom (5.11d)
By: randy baum When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: hahaha.
dude, i have no right to downgrade. now, you, a colorado resident, can be the downgrade sheriff.
|
Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Cyclops Area : User Friendly (5.12b)
By: randy baum When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: finally did this. not as bad as i thought. i mean, it's bad, but not a complete waste of time. there's some fun wandering up high, and the choss makes things exciting.
one thing's for sure: this is not 12b. more like 11b. and that's no sandbag. soft touch and living all over me are way, way harder.
|
Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Whiskey a Go-Go (5.13a)
By: randy baum When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: whiskey on gear. baller!
|
RSS Feed
