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Member Since: Jan 18, 2012
Last Visit: Mar 26, 2014
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Point Rank: # 3,074
Total Points: 144
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Caliza been climbing?










Contributions


All (110) | Routes (5) | Areas (3) | Photos (5) | Comments (24) | Posts | Stars (36) | Ratings (37)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Cave Lieback

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a (0)

Sport, 1 pitch, 40'

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : East Face

Sep 3, 2013

Uncle Tom

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a (7)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Bear

Mar 20, 2013

Oona Kuma Direct (FA)

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b (3)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Flintstone Rock

Jun 1, 2012

Oona Kuma (FA)

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b (7)

Sport, 1 pitch, 75'

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Flintstone Rock

May 29, 2012

The Quarry (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b (5)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Flintstone Rock

May 28, 2012

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Hidden Cove

CA : SF Bay Area : Black Sand Beach

Mar 20, 2013

Last Cove

CA : SF Bay Area : Black Sand Beach

Mar 20, 2013

Black Sand Beach

CA : SF Bay Area

Mar 20, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Topo.

Topo.

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Oona Kuma (5.10b)

Jun 20, 2012

Topo of Flinstone.

Topo of Flinstone.

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Flintstone Rock

Jun 20, 2012

Flintstone Rock.

Flintstone Rock.

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Pine Canyon

Jun 20, 2012

Traversing through the first three bolts before jumping on the head-wall.

Traversing through the first three bolts before jumping on the head-wall.

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Quarry (5.10c)

May 31, 2012

After traverse about to gain headwall.

After traverse about to gain headwall.

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Quarry (5.10c)

May 29, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Indian Rock : Indian Rock : Flake Traverse (V4)
By: Caliza When: Jan 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If you're tall with a decent ape index you're going to be able to bypass the crux like my friend did, but for us shorter folks you gotta commit to the crux. Maybe in the Buttermilks it'd be a V2 but in Berkeley it's def a V3


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Black Hole Sun (5.10d)
By: Caliza When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Did this without the chimney, I think this route is harder than Napa Valley Party Service. Not the best but worth doing once.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Bear's Choice (5.12+)
By: Caliza When: Dec 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are two ways to do this climb; first way is to find the hidden crimp/jug far right of the first bolt avoiding the direct start then traversing in around the second bolt. I think this way is 12a. The second way is to do the direct underneath the first bolt, this way is full-on till you get to the third clip where the 5.9 begins. I think this way is 12b.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Jason and the Argonauts (5.12b)
By: Caliza When: Dec 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: On second thought, I feel this route is a better example of a benchmark 5.12b than a 5.12c, our egos should take a back seat. Excellent route and spicy up top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag : KGB (5.12a)
By: Caliza When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: An excellent line, probably the best quality route I did on this trip. But to call it a 5.12a is a bit of a fluff grade. 5.11d would seem to be more appropriate; even at that, not the hardest for that grade.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Body Snatcher (5.12a)
By: Caliza When: Oct 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hold broke at the second to last bolt where one of the already little crimps are, turning it into a micro-crimp. Sequence through there is quite a bit harder now, feels like it could be 12a/b now, or just 12b, not sure. A few more big holds might brake, loose and wiggly.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Cataract Corner (5.12a/b)
By: Caliza When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: I second Collin, soft for the grade it's definitely not. Great, technical climb with a powerful crux.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Cragmont Park : East Face : Farewell to Arms (5.10a)
By: Caliza When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: One more bolt has been added to the face below the ledge, kinda changing the dynamic of the route. The bolts used are wave bolts, they're glue-ins and pretty bomber stainless steal bolts, I've used them elsewhere. Unless someone wants to go through the arduous effort of sawing off all four bolts, I doubt they will be removed. Personally I have nothing against making it possible to lead, I don't value top-rope climbs that much, just think the bolts could have been placed better.

If you do the m... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Stone Free (5.12a)
By: Caliza When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun! Definitely not 12a. If Body Snatchers is 12a than Stone Free is 11d at most. Definitely must do.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Body Snatcher (5.12a)
By: Caliza When: Aug 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Don't know how I feel about this route, very fun movements on poor rock. The first few bolts were easy enough with decent rock quality after the first bolt, but the very top of this route was chossy and okay at best. A lil heady too given that the bolts are more spaced out up top amongst good holds but they flex and feel like they're going break. Definitely true to the grade though, 5.12a, and harder than Treasure Island. Besides my ranting about the rock quality, fun route and very sustained wi... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Bear's Choice (5.12+)
By: Caliza When: Aug 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: So part of the rock on the climb broke revealing a nice edge above the heal-hook jug at the start in the shape of a nice crimp/big foothold for when going to the 3rd clip-jug up above. I would say the climb probably is no harder than 12a now; maybe even easier.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Kill Uncle (5.12a)
By: Caliza When: Aug 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Just did the direct start two days ago, the first few tries on it felt impossible, but on the send go it didn't feel that bad at all. There is some key beta to the direct start that if you don't figure it out, will make it feel wicked hard. With this beta I think it's 12b, an eliminate finish up top could make it 12c cutting out the good holds left and right at the last bolt, going direct with the sharp right undercling and a left hand deadpoint to a sloper. I really enjoyed this climb!


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