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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : SW Rib (5.8)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 to Blake's first suggestion for P1. Fun, steep, well-protected 5.8. With a few longer runners, you can link the 5.6 slab with the 5.7 bearhug pitch (which protects well with a single #5 Camalot). After the next slabby pitch, simulclimb toward the rabbit ears, but move down and left around them on a ledge (one bit of exposure, easily protected). You will reach the notch this way without rappel shenanigans. Then it's a short 5.4 wide crack to the top.
A big avalanche path now oblite... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : East Face North Side/1st Fl... (5.2 R)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soloed this today, starting with the smooth chimney/cave at the end of the approach trail. You can climb out of the chimney to the left and stand on top of a chockstone, then exit up to a gully on the right. From here (rap slings nearby), I moved left onto the face and, after some flaky slab traversing, met up with a crack that had a well-traveled look. Fun routefinding between featured sections and cracks to the ridge.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : South East Arete/Second (5.7)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is interesting if you stay near the shallow corner and do some stemming.
If you belay a bit further past the roof to end P2, past the fixed bong and after you turn the corner left, you can do a 190-foot P3 up the watercourse to a cozy belay at an arch with plentiful gear (more gear at the belay than on the whole pitch).
I disagree with AC, this is an aesthetically pleasing route. Attack an obvious weakness on a distinct section of the formation, then climb a natural feature (the w... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rush (5.11b)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, can easily be toproped by climbing Take the Power Back and moving right to an anchor after the bulge. Belaying from the ground, rather than the sloping ledge, can be done with a 60m rope. There are two or three bolts too many, though, as the crack through the roof would take good gear.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Great Northern Slab : Breakfast of Champions (5.10a)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 60m does barely make it to the chains midway up Roger's Corner, but be careful.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Great Northern Slab : Photo
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like the Sickle. Blockbuster is the 5.9 OW boulder problem just above and left of the leader's head.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Steel Monkey (5.12)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not bad as a short clean aid climb.
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland : Sweet and Sticky (5.9)
By: Ralph Bodenner When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Small cams and nuts protect the runouts between bolts. Can lower with a 50m rope from the second anchor.
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