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Rock Climbing Photo: Escalante Canyon


Member Since: Nov 24, 2012
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact Ralph Swansen

Ralph Swansen
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Point Rank: # 2,207
Total Points: 336
Last Year: 280
Last 30 Days: 58
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ralph Swansen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1871 | Routes 16 | Areas 1 | Photos 21 | Page Improvements | Comments 56 | Posts 62 | Stars 871 | Ratings 844
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Fearless Fraser (5.11a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Colin! I googled for a possible better source but found nothing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Fern Hill : Burp the Worm (5.11c)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: Felt .11c to me. Funky movement.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Freeloader (5.11b)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: The first bolt is way high due to the fact that there is no more tree. and yes it is an .11a move to get to it. Stick clip highly recommended. This route shares a first bolt with the fun easier fully bolted route "Fearless Frasier" which leads off to the left.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Jail Bait (5.11c)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: I prefer to trad-style the chimney (skipping the bolt mid-chimney after the chained clip) and find it way easier than the mono pocket section before the mantel.

Awesome route!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nemo's Nemesis (5.11d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic, well-protected, and sustained. When it's steep, the holds are bigger. When it's less steep, the holds are smaller!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Citadel Crag : Da Gyps Route (5.11)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: I can easily say that this is spicy, hard 5.11. I had a point 1 between bolts 1&2 and a point 2 between bolts 2&3. The moves between bolts are harder than 5.9.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Wango's Workshop : Wango (5.10c PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Manky nut/ hex anchor at top that could use a new sling/ cordellette.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Wango's Workshop : Tomb Raider (5.10b/c)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: The last pitch is no harder than .10c when holds around the arĂȘte are used at the start. Very nice.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : Withholding Evidence (5.11b/c)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: I thoroughly enjoyed the upper 2/3 and felt it was excellent 5.10 climbing.

Great route.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: No more cairn at the base, but the directions and picture here on MP are very accurate for the start of the climb. I will agree with comments above about the topo being excellent except on pitch 13 where going straight up to the bail tat is a mistake. Instead, stay right and follow the description in comments above. This climb is amazing and almost every pitch is high quality. We averaged 45 mins a pitch including the descent approach. We did not bring or see a need for a #4.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Beside the Pillar (5.10+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: This can take a few twos and two threes.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Jam (5.9) : Photo
By: Ralph Swansen When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Mike! I started in the Gunk's but learned many tricks since moving out West. :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Fat Tuesday (5.10+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: I'm 5'6", fat fingers and did find some good beta for keeping it 10+!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Monkey Puzzle (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Short but absolutely great!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Monkey Pause (5.12a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Mark is correct. ^^^^


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Elephant Rock : North Prow (5.10a PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: First bolt is waaaay high with tough moves to get to it. Stick clip or what I did was protected the opening moves with a red x4 and a green c3 right above it in the seam about two thirds of the way towards the bolt. Bomber.

I really enjoyed this route, but it was a tough warmup as I thought it to be harder than 10a with some good runout. Thin, balance moves on small crystals and a fun roof at the end.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face : D3 (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: Good advice from ryanwallace77 with the white spot. I'm uncertain why there are so many belay stations, but anyone comfortable running out easy terrain can go to the third set of anchors with a 60 meter. From there, the next pitch leads up left and through some fun terrain, then, passing another set of anchors (next pitch), a big flat area and the 5.9 finger crack/ off width(ish). I linked these next two pitches with minimal gear and some drag. The traverse left pitches are next, these are best ... more >>


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: The directions leave out that when Rd 375a ends, stay left onto Trail 373. When 373 is approaching the base of the rock, a right turn down a hill will take you to a parking lot that is the closest to the base with an established trail to the rock. There is another parking lot on the right side of 373 a little past the aforementioned turn off with a slightly longer approach. The drive from BV takes a good 30+ minutes to the base of the rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10c/d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: 1 pitch is the right way to do this. I found the lower section very pleasing on the way to the awesome finger crack. Wildfire is a great second pitch finish/top out to this and is 5.10.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Wild Fire (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Great finish to Finger Lickin Good. 5.10 as the book states.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.10a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: I agree. The second pitch is a solid 5.10 b/c with awkward moves.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : A Little on the Ugly Side (5.10a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: This one gave me some trouble at the start and up the slab. I found it to be super interesting and fun! The start is awkward, strenuous but thoughtful, and the slabby face is super thin with some great moves!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Super fun! I went up without enough gear to get to the anchors at the top of the chimney. Had to get a gear delivery. If I did it again... doubles from #0.75 to #5 and one #6 (6 optional).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: It's spicy. Solid PG-13.
Not great for breaking into the grade. Be a solid .10 leader.
Amazing climb with almost every style of climbing.
Bring small cams up to #3, and I had doubles of #0.75, 1, 2, full set of nuts plus the three smallest tri-cams which I was very happy to have (passively) I ran it out and used everything on pitches 1/2 & 3. Trad belays.
Combining first two pitches is perfect.
The book said to head east to descend, but there are anchors on the Northwest side of the... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Single rack to 3" is perfect. Maybe 12 alpine draws. Do not underestimate the easier pitches. The entire climb is amazing and sustained. I disagree that the final pitch crux is reachy, I misread this crux because of that beta and took two falls, as soon as I stepped down and over, I got it easily. At the first, second and last pitch cruxes, step up, clip, step down, over and up (or skip the last bolt on the second pitch after making the move and clip for the follower.) This route is so well bo... more >>


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