Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Escalante Canyon


Member Since: Nov 24, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Ralph Swansen

Ralph Swansen
is a member of
Point Rank: # 4,906
Total Points: 101
Last Year: 60
Last 30 Days: 20
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ralph Swansen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1538 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 57 | Stars 722 | Ratings 710
Page 1 of 62.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Rusty Jam

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 45'

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Jan 16, 2016

Look What Zog Do

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

Nov 28, 2015

Kor Direct to Super Slab

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 70'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram...

Nov 15, 2015

Center Route P3 Variation

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 100'

CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle

Aug 9, 2015

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming

Jamming

NY : The Gunks : ... : Rusty Jam (5.9)

Jan 16, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: The route

The route

NY : The Gunks : ... : Rusty Jam (5.9)

Jan 16, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Escalante Canyon

Escalante Canyon

The People of Mountain Proj... : Ralph Swansen : Climbing

Jun 6, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on Crimson Chrysalis

Somewhere on Crimson Chrysalis

The People of Mountain Proj... : Ralph Swansen : Climbing

Dec 1, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Elephant Rock : North Prow (5.10a PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: First bolt is waaaay high with tough moves to get to it. Stick clip or what I did was protected the opening moves with a red x4 and a green c3 right above it in the seam about two thirds of the way towards the bolt. Bomber.

I really enjoyed this route, but it was a tough warmup as I thought it to be harder than 10a with some good runout. Thin, balance moves on small crystals and a fun roof at the end.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face : D3 (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Good advice from ryanwallace77 with the white spot. I'm uncertain why there are so many belay stations, but anyone comfortable running out easy terrain can go to the third set of anchors with a 60 meter. From there, the next pitch leads up left and through some fun terrain, then, passing another set of anchors (next pitch), a big flat area and the 5.9 finger crack/ off width(ish). I linked these next two pitches with minimal gear and some drag. The traverse left pitches are next, these are best ... more >>


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The directions leave out that when Rd 375a ends, stay left onto Trail 373. When 373 is approaching the base of the rock, a right turn down a hill will take you to a parking lot that is the closest to the base with an established trail to the rock. There is another parking lot on the right side of 373 a little past the aforementioned turn off with a slightly longer approach. The drive from BV takes a good 30+ minutes to the base of the rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 1 pitch is the right way to do this. I found the lower section very pleasing on the way to the awesome finger crack. Wildfire is a great second pitch finish/top out to this and is 5.10.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Wild Fire (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great finish to Finger Lickin Good. 5.10 as the book states.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I agree. The second pitch is a solid 5.10 b/c with awkward moves.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : A Little on the Ugly Side (5.10a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This one gave me some trouble at the start and up the slab. I found it to be super interesting and fun! The start is awkward, strenuous but thoughtful, and the slabby face is super thin with some great moves!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun! I went up without enough gear to get to the anchors at the top of the chimney. Had to get a gear delivery. If I did it again... doubles from #0.75 to #5 and one #6 (6 optional).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It's spicy. Solid PG-13.
Not great for breaking into the grade. Be a solid .10 leader.
Amazing climb with almost every style of climbing.
Bring small cams up to #3, and I had doubles of #0.75, 1, 2, full set of nuts plus the three smallest tri-cams which I was very happy to have (passively) I ran it out and used everything on pitches 1/2 & 3. Trad belays.
Combining first two pitches is perfect.
The book said to head east to descend, but there are anchors on the Northwest side of the... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Single rack to 3" is perfect. Maybe 12 alpine draws. Do not underestimate the easier pitches. The entire climb is amazing and sustained. I disagree that the final pitch crux is reachy, I misread this crux because of that beta and took two falls, as soon as I stepped down and over, I got it easily. At the first, second and last pitch cruxes, step up, clip, step down, over and up (or skip the last bolt on the second pitch after making the move and clip for the follower.) This route is so well bo... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : The Crux of the Biscuit is ... (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The book calls this 10a / 10d. It states 10a is if the roof is avoided to the right and 10d if you pull the roof by way of the arete with no cheating to the right.

That's Table for ya, a lot of climbs are cheatable, you just gotta will yourself to stay on the line.

I found the thin slab/face moves to the left of the bolts (10bish) to be very pleasurable. I went around the roof to the right and scoped out the holds and then when I was being lowered from the anchors, I tr'd the roof by using th... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Bucket Bronco (5.10a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There's plenty of good gear below the first bolt. Not much death. We led through the first section roof of Czech crack and then joined Bucket Bronco. This was a great combo and super protectable. Super fun, looong (for J-tree) and diverse climb.

Plus this is a trad (mixed) climb. Of course take gear.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Varnished Wall : Circle of Benevolence (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Slinged horn is gone. We found a class 4 down climb right. Straight between bolts 1&2 felt like 11a.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Jumbo Rocks Corridor : Handsaw (5.10b)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think some holds may have broke off in the "mystery bolt" area. The beginning is tough and hard to protect. Clip the bolt!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihe... (5.10+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: First 130' good 3 & 4 jamming (wide). Last two pitches on crummy rock and waaay harder than 10+. No way to bail from the top of the offwidth pitch. So unless you are comfortable on 11s, be prepared to aid the bolts to the top!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall Complex : ... : Moon Shadow (5.10)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: After climbing some Yosemite chimneys, maybe this is a ten but a hard one!!!!!!!! :-)


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Papoose : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great climbing. Stout for the grade. I have never been so runout, not a fan of that. Big fall potential. I think that having double ropes helped extremely with rope management. If you are pushing your grade, you may want to think a bit before attempting this runout climb!

PG-13


Page 1 of 62.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!