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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sands of Iwo Jima (5.11c/d)
By: proto When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice even if it is also very short.
I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: proto When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led it today. I used a 0.4 on the first pitch and a 0.5 C4 on the second. Nice route very well protected. You don't need 12 QD as stated in the book, 7 QD and 2 runners are enough.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: proto When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stephanie and I climbed it after camping at Crater Lake. The description of MP is better than that of the guidebook. Overall, finding the line is not a problem: follow the most obvious one. We kept the hiking boots all the way up, which is the good solution, don't bother carrying climbing shoes. The descent via Solo Flight is quite obvious as well, provided you know that you mustn't take the first deep gully. No rope needed for the descent.
Nice alpine route in a remote location.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b)
By: proto When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led the first pitch last Sunday but it was too late to finish the route. So I've described the first pitch only ...
It's definitely a nice one.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Gelsa (5.4)
By: proto When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I inadvertently did a 5.10R "variation" going strait to the first good ledge with a tree. Apparently not climbed very often ...
Second pitch is incredibly steep for the grade but is really only 5.4
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: proto When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stef and I did Kiener's yesterday (5/17/09) in just over 15h car to car. It's in full conditions. Broadway is full of snow as is the rest of the route, including the 3 pitches above Broadway. We kept the crampons from the base of Lamb's Slide all the way up to the summit and then all the way down to Boulderfield. The snow was quite soft on Broadway and Kiener's although we started early. The descent via the North face is also full of snow, but of rather good quality even in the afternoon. There ... more >>
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