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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Long Canyon North : Peccadillo (5.11)
By: powerandrubber When: Dec 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got around to doing this awesome route. 5 stars for sure but there's a little sand and choss avoidance adventure as it doesn't get gang banged like the creek (thankfully). For finding it don't follow DR (it's technically correct but overly complicated directions). Simply set the odometer to 0 when turning onto long canyon from potash and go 1.2 miles. Pull over and look for an obvious orange talus slope/gully cutting through the chinle cliff bands. Go up this slope to the base and wa... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: powerandrubber When: May 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great illustration of how a tricam seats in and angle pin scar. Rails in rails, fulcrum in the round part of the angle. Nice
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: powerandrubber When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My GF and I both thought the 1st half of the 5.11 pitch was rediculously sandbagged even for zion (though stellar). Way harder than Intruder. The 2nd half felt 5.11-
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: powerandrubber When: May 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route clean last weekend however a fixed pin (ancient long KB) pulled out as I was clipping my next piece on the 7th pitch (made the clip). I didn't have a hammer to put it back in, not that it would fit in the old placement anyway. Next party should be prepared one way or another. Very "exciting" climb.
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Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock
By: powerandrubber When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome crag but it's not basalt. It's gneiss
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: powerandrubber When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the sheriffs office...
This matter can be dealt with before tragedy befalls anyone. I would need you to complete and file a formal affidavit as to the threats against you. This can be accomplished by coming to Worland, Wyoming and completing the affidavit first hand or I can forward you a statement form that you can fill out, have notarized and return the original back to me. At that time we can forward this information to the Washakie County Attorney. I have also spoken with Cindy Gra... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: powerandrubber When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's an email being circulated about the situation. The sheriff and FS law enforcement are watching this asshole very closely but everyone can help by expressing their concerns to the authorities as listed below.
> Some of you climb in Tensleep Canyon (WYO) and some of you dont.
>
> My hope is that if you love climbing or you know anyone at all who climbs in Ten Sleep that you will help us with a simple email to the local authorities.
>
&... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: powerandrubber When: Nov 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope. You need 2 ropes
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Location: MT
By: powerandrubber When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes access issues. The montana climbing moffia kept Lost Horse secret, even from the forest service. Now it's slated to be quarried into chip seal. firstascentpress.com/losthorse.html It's not so secret now!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : New Toy (5.10a X)
By: powerandrubber When: May 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, definitly not X rated. Maybe R. The runouts would be average at Tuolumne or J Tree. Awesome route!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Singapore (5.11a PG13)
By: powerandrubber When: May 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite route at the city, better than COD. I don't get the "fierce" reputation. I've lead it 3 times with good gear, blue and green aliens work best at the top IMO. If the crux (last) placements blow you're still way off the ground. Make sure you do Harvest (10d) to the left, also one of the best City cracks. Both these routes get plenty of shade.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: powerandrubber When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI there is an approach pitch to Lovelace (Fang Wall) not mentioned on the topo. If you want to fix the aid pitch you'll need 3 ropes. The approach is a thrash; sand, rattlesnakes, bushwhack... I've only done the firs 2 pitches.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: powerandrubber When: Apr 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes you need 2 ropes. I posted some video at
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