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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley Of Kings : ... : Waltz For Debby (5.10a)
By: pointy When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first half of the climb is really fun, and makes the second half worth it.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Jerry Brown (5.10b)
By: pointy When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders.
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Location: Blitzo : Miscellaneous Photos : Photo
By: pointy When: Oct 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah! photobooth is hilarious
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Aunt Jemima (5.10a)
By: pointy When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I found our way there with no problems (unusual for us) with only the Park Service binder topo and a quick look at TopoZone. The above info should be plenty. Also, we found a single set of cams to be sufficient.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Retaliation (5.9)
By: pointy When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are plenty of great nut placements before the crux on pitch two, though you have to lean over to see them. Practice cam conservation for the crux.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Irene's Arete (5.8)
By: pointy When: Jun 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're descending to a camp in Garnet Canyon (Caves, Meadows, etc.) take the second gully to the west (climber's left) of the top of Irene's. This gully forks, the western fork is a little easier. There's a short rappel from a slung horn about partway down. This descent dumps you into Garnet Canyon just uphill of the Caves. I've seen big rocks come down this gully, watch out.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Toe Crack (5.7)
By: pointy When: May 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route. The traverse left to Thin Air is fun and easy. You can also rap from those anchors with two ropes, or a set just below with a 70m.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: pointy When: Apr 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route. It's straightforward to get to the top of the chockstone on pitch one without tunneling, but then you're missing out on the fun. The "cave" pitch higher up the best pitch on the route and pretty unique, don't deprive yourself by staying on the face.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : North Creeper Rock : Finger Locking Good (5.7 R)
By: pointy When: Mar 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route, but the hollow flake (which isn't so bad) makes it a 5.7 for 5.8 leaders.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Water Chute (5.10b R)
By: pointy When: Mar 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the second crux to be at the bolt, though it was easier than getting off the ground. Hexes were helpful in the flare above the bolt. To me the alternate start seemed harder than 5.9. If you're going to skip the original start, don't bother with the route, it's half the "fun".
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)
By: pointy When: Feb 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The nature of the crack can make protecting with cams tricky sometimes. Nuts are key.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Wildfire (5.10b)
By: pointy When: Dec 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : East Side
By: pointy When: Dec 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An easier way to get to the east side is to approach as for Cruel Sister and then cross the river. This works on and off throughout the year, depending on how much water is being diverted from the river. It avoids the unpleasant thrash between the So Lo and Windfall Walls.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Parched Cat Cliff : Lonesome Crowded West (5.9)
By: pointy When: Dec 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. The biggest gear i used was a .75 Camalot. Mark, thanks for putting in low profile, high quality anchors. Looks like going left after the lower bulge could make for a tougher finish.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9)
By: pointy When: Dec 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, and a great description. Wearing a helmet is a good idea here (especially on the weekend). A cam fell out of the sky while i was roping up for this. The last pitch can be toproped pretty easily.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Cruel Sister (5.10a)
By: pointy When: Dec 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can get away with one set of cams if you know how to place nuts. The crack isn't splitter the whole way, so there are lots of passive gear placements and hand locks. As Andy said save a #4 Camalot for the top (or a big hex?).
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