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Member Since: Nov 20, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 23, 2016
Contact Ian McEleney

Point Rank: # 989
Total Points: 799
Last Year: 288
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ian McEleney been climbing?










Contributions


All 394 | Routes 43 | Areas 8 | Photos 39 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 33 | Posts 23 | Stars 188 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The High Life (5.8)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Climbed this today. Fun movement, good pro, it might be a good one for folks breaking into the grade. It was not wet at all.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Burlesque (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Sherri's beta is good. Pitch 2 is fun and pitch 3 is great.

For the rack we brought a single #6, which worked fine in conjunction with the bolt. We didn't bring or need a #5 or #4.

On the descent, make a two rope rap from the bolts on the boulder to another bolted station up and slightly right of the tat station. It's a better anchor and a better stance. This is pretty much directly below the start of the flake on pitch 3. From here the rappel beta is the same.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Never Never Land (5.9 A3)
By: Ian McEleney When: Feb 9, 2016

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Comments: Climbed this last fall. I don't think we used many sawed-offs or any blades. I would have rather carried an extra .5 and .75 instead. Man that pitch getting up to Long Ledge is long!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Lee Vining Ice : Narrows - Left : Zippo's Frozen Booger (WI5)
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: I spoke to several long-time local ice climbers and nobody could recall the name of the first ascensionist. If anyone knows please inform me and I'll update the page.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : alpine / multi-pitch : East Face, Central Gully (5.7)
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this 5 days ago. It was cold (7F at Twin Lakes at 8am) and there was snow on the route. The route gets pretty much no sun at this time of year. We started the same but dealt with the snowfield differently than Preston's description.

We climbed the first step in about 30m to a ledge. From here we climbed another maybe 30m pitch left and up. These two pitches were fairly easy, we felt like they clocked in at maybe M3. From here we climbed easier terrain for 50m+ following the lower left ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Two Eagle Peak : The Diamond (5.6 PG13)
By: Ian McEleney When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: This route is a fun adventure for folks wanting a a route with real alpine feel and length at a low technical difficulty. We found the occasional piton on the "rightward trending ramp". Near where the ramp ends at the right edge of the giant triangular face is a good looking crack system that's more like 5.9. Ignore it and follow the path of least resistance like the description says. After this was some classic Sierra ridge climbing and a fun little boulder problem onto the summit block.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Suburbia : Nomadic Alternative (5.10-)
By: Ian McEleney When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: A fun little warm up.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : G.o.T Crag : Frostfangs (5.10d)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: There is still a bit of loose rock on the first half of the route, just above the "small corner capped with an undercling" from the description. Still worth doing though. The "heave-ho" mantel is a fun move.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : El Segundo Buttress : Beckey Route (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: A fun route with great climbing. We found the first pitch to start in a right facing corner, not the left leaning dihedral from the description. It was the flakiest rock of the route but the moves were fun and the pro was good. Like Todd, we broke it into two pitches. Also, as Travis noted, the third pitch belay bolts are to the left of the crack (not the right) a body length or two past the fixed pin.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall
By: Ian McEleney When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: There is good parking for this crag on the east side of the road. It's 1 mile north of the Supercrack parking and 2.7 miles south of the Beef Basin Road. The crag is rarely busy. Though the routes are a bit sandier, this could be a good place to go with folks who are new to The Creek.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Old and the Bold (5.10c)
By: Ian McEleney When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this today. Pitch 1 is definitely cleaning up. It's long. On pitch 3, the bushy ledge is a much better place to finish than the bolted anchor, but there's still some loose rock on the ledge and in the start of the corner above, take care if there are parties below. I second Neil's comments on the rack.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Lee Vining Ice
By: Ian McEleney When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: The Guidebook for this area is Eastern Sierra Ice by Robert "SP" Parker. A good photo overlay of most of the ice routes can be found here.

Please don't camp (in a tent, your vehicle, or otherwise) in or near the Poole Power Plant parking. It's not allowed and it jeopardizes access. If you really want to camp out better options exist closer to and on the other side of 395.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Little Slide Spires : Outguard Spire : East Face Direct (5.10d)
By: Ian McEleney When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the finger crack felt like the crux, though the traverse just before it was no gimmie. Easily doable from the car.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2)
By: Ian McEleney When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Just climbed this a few days ago. There was a dead head on pitch 5. We bypassed this by hooking it with a small Tomahawk. My partner (who is new to walls and had never used a Tomahawk for anything) found this to be pretty straightforward. A short cheater stick would also get you past this easily.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: As of April 2011 the fixed angle just above the roof on pitch two is in pretty sorry shape. One of the two eyes is completely gone and the other is cracked through and flexing hard. Tying off the pin (above the eye) seemed to be a good way to prevent the remaining eye from breaking.

The better top out is to traverse straight across the ledge at the top of the "sport" pitch. Make an exciting step-across then scramble up (4th class) to the summit ridge.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Deep Throat (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: I've done this a third way. Climb the crack left of the hole through the roof, using the hole to get established on the face. However it's done, a fun little route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Riddler's Delight (5.10)
By: Ian McEleney When: Nov 27, 2010

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Comments: There is a topo on page 144 of the Supertopo book. There is also good beta for the descent (if you go to the top) under the description for Risk Management on page 146. The biggest piece we brought was a #4 C4.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Waltz for Debby (5.10a)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: The first half of the climb is really fun, and makes the second half worth it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Jerry Brown (5.10b)
By: Ian McEleney When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders.


Location: Blitzo : Miscellaneous Photos : Photo
By: Ian McEleney When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: Yeah! photobooth is hilarious


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Tooele Tower (5.10a)
By: Ian McEleney When: Sep 17, 2007

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Comments: My partner and I found our way there with no problems (unusual for us) with only the Park Service binder topo and a quick look at TopoZone. The above info should be plenty. Also, we found a single set of cams to be sufficient.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Retaliation (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: There are plenty of great nut placements before the crux on pitch two, though you have to lean over to see them. Practice cam conservation for the crux.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Irene's Arete (5.8)
By: Ian McEleney When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: If you're descending to a camp in Garnet Canyon (Caves, Meadows, etc.) take the second gully to the west (climber's left) of the top of Irene's. This gully forks, the western fork is a little easier. There's a short rappel from a slung horn about partway down. This descent dumps you into Garnet Canyon just uphill of the Caves. I've seen big rocks come down this gully, watch out.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Toe Crack (5.7)
By: Ian McEleney When: May 26, 2007

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Comments: What a great route. The traverse left to Thin Air is fun and easy. You can also rap from those anchors with two ropes, or a set just below with a 70m.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 20, 2007

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Comments: Great Route. It's straightforward to get to the top of the chockstone on pitch one without tunneling, but then you're missing out on the fun. The "cave" pitch higher up the best pitch on the route and pretty unique, don't deprive yourself by staying on the face.


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