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Member Since: Nov 20, 2006
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2015
Contact Ian McEleney

Point Rank: # 1,286
Total Points: 509
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Ian McEleney been climbing?


All 311 | Routes 34 | Areas 4 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 20 | Stars 164 | Ratings 48

Contributed Comments


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sinbad Wall
By: Ian McEleney When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: There is good parking for this crag on the east side of the road. It's 1 mile north of the Supercrack parking and 2.7 miles south of the Beef Basin Road. The crag is rarely busy. Though the routes are a bit sandier, this could be a good place to go with folks who are new to The Creek.

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Old and the Bold (5.10c)
By: Ian McEleney When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this today. Pitch 1 is definitely cleaning up. It's long. On pitch 3, the bushy ledge is a much better place to finish than the bolted anchor, but there's still some loose rock on the ledge and in the start of the corner above, take care if there are parties below. I second Neil's comments on the rack.

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice
By: Ian McEleney When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: The Guidebook for this area is Eastern Sierra Ice by Robert "SP" Parker.

Location: CA : High Sierra : Little Slide Spires : Outguard Spire : E Face Direct of Outguard S... (5.10d)
By: Ian McEleney When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the finger crack felt like the crux, though the traverse just before it was no gimmie. Easily doable from the car.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2-3)
By: Ian McEleney When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Just climbed this a few days ago. There was a dead head on pitch 5. We bypassed this by hooking it with a small Tomahawk. My partner (who is new to walls and had never used a Tomahawk for anything) found this to be pretty straightforward. A short cheater stick would also get you past this easily.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: As of April 2011 the fixed angle just above the roof on pitch two is in pretty sorry shape. One of the two eyes is completely gone and the other is cracked through and flexing hard. Tying off the pin (above the eye) seemed to be a good way to prevent the remaining eye from breaking.

The better top out is to traverse straight across the ledge at the top of the "sport" pitch. Make an exciting step-across then scramble up (4th class) to the summit ridge.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Deep Throat (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: I've done this a third way. Climb the crack left of the hole through the roof, using the hole to get established on the face. However it's done, a fun little route.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Riddler's Delight (5.10)
By: Ian McEleney When: Nov 27, 2010

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Comments: There is a topo on page 144 of the Supertopo book. There is also good beta for the descent (if you go to the top) under the description for Risk Management on page 146. The biggest piece we brought was a #4 C4.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Waltz for Debby (5.10a)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: The first half of the climb is really fun, and makes the second half worth it.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Jerry Brown (5.10b)
By: Ian McEleney When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders.

Location: Blitzo : Miscellaneous Photos : Photo
By: Ian McEleney When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: Yeah! photobooth is hilarious

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Tooele Tower (5.10a)
By: Ian McEleney When: Sep 17, 2007

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Comments: My partner and I found our way there with no problems (unusual for us) with only the Park Service binder topo and a quick look at TopoZone. The above info should be plenty. Also, we found a single set of cams to be sufficient.

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Retaliation (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: There are plenty of great nut placements before the crux on pitch two, though you have to lean over to see them. Practice cam conservation for the crux.

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Irene's Arete (5.8)
By: Ian McEleney When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: If you're descending to a camp in Garnet Canyon (Caves, Meadows, etc.) take the second gully to the west (climber's left) of the top of Irene's. This gully forks, the western fork is a little easier. There's a short rappel from a slung horn about partway down. This descent dumps you into Garnet Canyon just uphill of the Caves. I've seen big rocks come down this gully, watch out.

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Toe Crack (5.7)
By: Ian McEleney When: May 26, 2007

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Comments: What a great route. The traverse left to Thin Air is fun and easy. You can also rap from those anchors with two ropes, or a set just below with a 70m.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Apr 20, 2007

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Comments: Great Route. It's straightforward to get to the top of the chockstone on pitch one without tunneling, but then you're missing out on the fun. The "cave" pitch higher up the best pitch on the route and pretty unique, don't deprive yourself by staying on the face.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Creeper Rocks : North Creeper Rock : Finger Locking Good (5.7 R)
By: Ian McEleney When: Mar 23, 2007

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Comments: A fun route, but the hollow flake (which isn't so bad) makes it a 5.7 for 5.8 leaders.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Water Chute (5.10b R)
By: Ian McEleney When: Mar 16, 2007

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Comments: I found the second crux to be at the bolt, though it was easier than getting off the ground. Hexes were helpful in the flare above the bolt. To me the alternate start seemed harder than 5.9. If you're going to skip the original start, don't bother with the route, it's half the "fun".

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)
By: Ian McEleney When: Feb 23, 2007

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Comments: The nature of the crack can make protecting with cams tricky sometimes. Nuts are key.

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Wildfire (5.10b)
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 21, 2006

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Comments: I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors.

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 21, 2006

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Comments: An easier way to get to the east side is to approach as for Cruel Sister and then cross the river. This works on and off throughout the year, depending on how much water is being diverted from the river. It avoids the unpleasant thrash between the So Lo and Windfall Walls.

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Lonesome Crowded West (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 20, 2006

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Comments: Fun route. The biggest gear i used was a .75 Camalot. Mark, thanks for putting in low profile, high quality anchors. Looks like going left after the lower bulge could make for a tougher finish.

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9)
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: Great route, and a great description. Wearing a helmet is a good idea here (especially on the weekend). A cam fell out of the sky while i was roping up for this. The last pitch can be toproped pretty easily.

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cruel Sister (5.10a)
By: Ian McEleney When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: You can get away with one set of cams if you know how to place nuts. The crack isn't splitter the whole way, so there are lots of passive gear placements and hand locks. As Andy said save a #4 Camalot for the top (or a big hex?).

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