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Rock Climbing Photo: Pinklebear

Member Since: May 8, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Pinklebear

Point Rank: # 181
Total Points: 3,250
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 1
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Pinklebear been climbing?


All 747 | Routes 234 | Areas 27 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 195 | Posts 71 | Stars 128 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Pinklebear When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: I appreciate you guys removing that choss. Ted and I started to mess with it but then gave up, figuring no one would ever go over there. Guess we were wrong....

Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Altered State (5.10+)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: Bolting is fine. Keep it spicy. Thunder Ridge 10+ is a beast to be feared and respected, which is part of the overall experience.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Maybe a glue-in is merited? If that bolt fails, you will likely deck due to the traversing nature of the route.

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: 5.12 "c." As in: "C, I fell off again. Guess I'll just keep on trying."

Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Pinklebear When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: The approach/driving beta as described isn't the best. 2.5 miles from the post office will actually put you in a little lot where the road turns from pavement to dirt, and with private land up the dirt road. And this is well past the cragging....

More accurately, per Pinklebear: it's about 2 miles up the road from the post office, right uphill from a steep, narrow section of road where you can see a cliff on the left, across the creek. The Mill Creek C... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Prime the Pump (5.12b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: As I recall, I never used the larger, flexy sidepull for the left in any case - even when we put the route that hold seemed like it was going to peel. I used the smaller, more inset hold, so perhaps this is why I felt the route was 12c. Or maybe I'm just not as strong and cool as all the bro-brau-bruhs in the elite, cutting-edge Boulder Flatirons Downraters Club.

On a side note, we toproped an alternate first pitch out left up the hanging arete/flake feature to the red face,... more >>

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: I think we're talking about the same climb, Dave. Anyway, Tod bolted, cleaned, etc. I might have had the first RP, but Tod would know for sure. 12b...stout! I really do recall a hard 12+, but it was also in the full-on sun, so....

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: I didn't put this one up -- It's a Tod Anderson climb, and I really doubt 5.12b -- more like 12+, if this is the line up the twin cracks.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: That pocket is natural, for sure. There are a lot of water pockets throughout Boulder Canyon that occur naturally, and this is one of them, at least from my experience climbing the route. You can tell because a natural pocket will still have a rough, crystalline texture.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Skin Flute (5.12a/b)
By: Pinklebear When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I know a few folks have expressed interest in giving Primate a makeover. I appreciate the spirit with which everyone is considering this. I don't pretend to have any special claim to these routes, having made the first ascent. That's why the FHRC process is in place -- so the community can decide. I do know that Primate has had another lead than mine, Matt Segal, also in headpoint style.

I've talked to a few folks, and Primate might make good sense as a "safe-enough" mixed route. Some of the ge... more >>

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Fiscal Cliff : Over the Top (5.12a)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: I had a lot of fun climbing here with Derek in 2014 when he'd put up about half the climbs and I helped pitch in on a few others to get them established. They were plenty clean at the time -- Derek always does a great job cleaning his climbs and has a great eye for a line. I imagine all the dirt on this route was washover, coming off the top of the cliff, and then of course all the mank they stirred up when they came in there and paved a bike path right along the base of the cliff (heinous, IMO ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Classic thin-face climbing, bullet rock, good mini-rests to get your shit together between cruxes. Love this route; Dream Canyon mega-classic.

The crux seems to have many "bad" options and only one "good" option for people of different heights. At 5'6" with a +2 ape index, I had the good clipping hold with the right, thin gaston just under the bolt with the left. Build the left foot in a white dish/smear, right foot high on the edge out right, rock over, and mantel/fire for the good c... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Pinklebear When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Bolts 3 and 4 are spinning (just the hangers), and 1 and 2 are torqued around a bit -- I'm sure all due to the traversing nature of the climb and sideways falls. If you get on it, bring a 9/16" socket or wrench to tighten down and re-orient the hangers.

Also, we pulled off the manky fixed draws but left two of the "still-OK" ones on bolts 2 and 3. If you want your draws back, PM me.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Hey Dan -- it would be a funner route if less runout. I didn't put it up, no. Maybe Bruno Hache? Or it might have been there before he added his climbs. Not sure....

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Slim, if you want to relocate the clip and put in anchors, be my guest. Thanks, Matt.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Apostrophe (5.11d)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Long run to the next-to-last bolt. Not especially hard but could be protected well with a finger-midrange cam in the horizontal (Metolius #3-#5, orange through black).

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Mud Shark (5.10d)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Sandbaggio. The only gear I needed/used was a Metolius #4 (red) between bolts 1 and 2. The webbing up on the summit tree looks crispy, not to mention the tree is growing/leaning against a giant, weird perched block -- topped out, downclimbed, then lowered off Lawyers, Guns and Hiltis.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : SMERSH (5.11)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Fun times—plenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Thunder Muscle (5.14a)
By: Pinklebear When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Glad you liked the climb, Elliott. I did do it without kneepads, yes, and in ratty cotton sweat pants. I used a left kneescum up at that top crux on the tufa feature. Ted has way better kneebar-tech skills and in addition to that scum had one lower down on the route with his right leg, before "the Heart." I'm guessing other kneebars have been unearthed, using pads, in other spots too. C'est la vie…er, knee.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Pinklebear When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Pretty line but a bit nebulous. It seems bolted to keep you out left on the arete, but there is a good crack and sidepulls on the right, though these make clipping way out down and left kind of hairball. You can even get in a nice hand crack at one point and rest. At a certain point, the bolt line forces you to come back left (at least high up, to the horn), though you could just keep going right with some trad gear. Maybe there is a more direct way left onto the arete lower down? Seems to be a ... more >>

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak...
By: Pinklebear When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Don't bother going to Buttonrock Reservoir until 2015. We drove in today, not thinking about the floods, but the reservoir and preserve are closed while they clean things up back there. We were able to drive the road almost all the way to the lot, but then a ranger turned us around. There's nowhere along the road to park either, and they don't want people back there for now. The ranger said it will open again in 2015….

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : West Face (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: Felt hard for 12c, or like "hard 12c." Many thanks, Adam and all, for updating the hardware!

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: It's always interesting how grades evolve on a climb, with traffic, new beta, holds in flux, etc. Who knows how hard this thing really is -- or any climb for that matter. It's always an interesting discussion.

When I first started trying this climb, it was July 2002, and while I knew Choose Life would go, I kept slipping off all the slopey holds up top in the heat because my hands were sweating so badly after 60 feet of climbing. I tried it on and off a few times that summer, gave up for awhile... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Conversions (5.12 X)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Some history on this lead with no "point": in Eldo, to bolt a new route, you need approval from a fixed hardware review committee, and it's certain this route never would have passed — it would have been a "two-bolt piece of shit," as Rolo Garibotti, who did the second ascent, pointed out ... if it even passed. And neither Steve nor I felt like submitting an app for a two-bolt POS.

So, Conversions is perfectly fine as a toprope, or if you want the mental challenge, you can lead it with the hoo... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for fixing this pitch, Chris, and resurrecting a Dream Canyon classic! Was happy to clip all fourteen bolts. Would be a deadly proposition with only two bolts and shaky micro-cams. Four-star 12c: sustained, varied, perplexing, technical, great position.

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