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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Desperado (5.11-)
By: phillip When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line right of ODB is Talkin' It Clean (5.9+). This was the original Jeff Wenger line and has the anchor that both Desperado and ODB finish on. Pretty full-value "5.9"!
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Desperado (5.11-)
By: phillip When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work, Trevor!
Just one tiny correction: The route to the right is called "Ol' Dirty Bastard". May he rest in peace. WU-TANG FOREVER!
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Sea of Holes (5.12a)
By: phillip When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started to clean off some of these lines and toproped Sea of Holes. I had a miserable time. Tweaky, uncomfortable, painful, stupid, dirty, uninspiring. Luckily, Wally Street is much, much better (though it also has a few drilled holds at the start).
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Smerk (5.11a)
By: phillip When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Smerk is the bolted face climb immediately left of New Generation (the 5.8 crack). Five bolts to the first anchor (11a). The second pitch of this is also reasonably clean and pretty good. Four more bolts to another anchor (10c). A 60m rope will get you down from the 2nd pitch anchor. The third pitch is overgrown and seldom done.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Bela Lugosi (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know, peachy... That's kind of a strange comment. Of course they've held falls. This doesn't mean they aren't due to be replaced, which is all anyone has brought up. There is no reason not to have good hardware on these routes. A lot of this stuff is over twenty years old and wasn't very high quality to begin with. It has to happen some time, ya know?!
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Cindyrella (5.12a)
By: phillip When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is still missing a hanger. I was just on this route the other day. The bolt protecting the crux is a rusted-out piece of junk and there is a stud sticking out of the wall about 2-3 feet above this. The hangerless bolt wouldn't be a big deal except that if the rusted bolt blows, the climber will fall back onto the slab of Gandalf's.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Bela Lugosi (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I TR'd this and would work on it in the future if the rusted bolts were replaced. The FA doesn't seem interested at this time...
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Pissfire (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Must say: this isn't THAT bad! Sure, the rock is chossy, but the moves are more enjoyable than the lower part of the "warm up". It has its place, IMO. (The warm up was seeping, so we decided to give it a go)
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Location: OR : Area 51
By: phillip When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful but quite chossy. I pulled a microwave-sized hold off of one of the better routes with little effort and pulled more rock off of the crux bulge of another "3 alien head" rated route. There's some fun stuff, but IMO not worthy of a long drive.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just revisited this route and I can say that it is certainly one of the top ten Portland-area sport climbs. Maybe state?! Good holds on beautiful, solid, grippy rock- what more could you ask for?
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Bloodline (5.12a)
By: phillip When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bees are back... Big time.
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