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Member Since: Jun 23, 2007
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact phillip


Point Rank: # 3,345
Total Points: 145
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has phillip been climbing?










Contributions


All 263 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 29 | Stars 175 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Philanthropy (FA)

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 55'

OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome

Sep 12, 2012

Skullduggery (FA)

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 115'

OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : (1) North Face

Apr 29, 2012

Psoriasis (FA)

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 55'

OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome

Jul 1, 2010

Bolt From the Blue

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (9)

Sport, 1 pitch, 110'

OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall

Jun 2, 2010

Jackie Chan

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (5)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome

Jul 4, 2009

Chariots of Fire

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : Yellow Wall

Jun 17, 2009

Wally Street

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : Rockgarden Wall

Jun 17, 2009

Shadowfox

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 40'

OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : Rockgarden Wall

Jun 16, 2009

High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (4)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome

Apr 28, 2009

Bad Omen

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (9)

Sport, 1 pitch, 65'

OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : (5) Bat Wall

Jun 23, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
sending

sending

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Karate Wall (aka Powerline) (5.12b)

Apr 12, 2010

airy

airy

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Karate Wall (aka Powerline) (5.12b)

Apr 12, 2010

Not yet!

Not yet!

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Karate Wall (aka Powerline) (5.12b)

Apr 12, 2010

Pat sending.

Pat sending.

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Heinous Cling (5.12c)

Apr 12, 2010

Kashmir    Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Kashmir Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff

Sep 11, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Skullduggery (5.12b)
By: phillip When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As of June '14 I placed an additional bolt after the crux sequence. The original ascent was more of a "headpoint" and would probably warrant a "R" rating if tried ground up. As it now stands, the route is a well-protected climb requiring a rack of gear with a few supplemental bolts. Oh, and it's a fantastic route! The crux sequence is an amazing bit of climbing.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks to whomever for the solid rebolting work!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Midas Touch (5.11+)
By: phillip When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: FA: Pat McCarthy


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : French's Doughnut (5.13a)
By: phillip When: Sep 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This link-up is a worthwhile endeavor if you've ticked the rest of the wall. It's a bit of a hassle to prep/hang the draws, but you'll appreciate having them hanging, as the route is pumpy enough.

With strategic sling length, rope drag wasn't as issue. The main obstacle was the spookiness of pulling the crux (BSD to Road Rage) while sideways out from the previous draw (Jackie Chan). There was a bit of rope out at that point, and you're not that high off the ground. A fall here demands an at... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13)
By: phillip When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Lousy video, but good beta!





Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Smooth Torquer (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: This route has been cleaned as of 08/2010. Upper slab is climbable and first two bolts have been replaced. The first bolt is still quite high, however. It's possible to climb the first pitch of Smerk to the Smooth Torquer anchor. A new bolt has been added to the slab that is clip-able from either Smerk or Smooth Torquer to protect the runout. (Permission for new bolt granted by the FA).


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Feather (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: Just climbed this today and wanted to mention that it is possible to rap this line with one 70m rope.

Also: above the first pitch we went slightly right and up to a bolt (that is not marked on the topo) before continuing up the crack instead of left to the wide crack. This variation was easy and created less rope drag.

Finally, the start of the Feather pitch is thin before clipping the bolt and reaching the locks. I recommend that the belayer lower their stance a ways to give the leader roo... more >>


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : Crankenstein (5.11c)
By: phillip When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: The rest jug 2/3 up this route is a time bomb. Look out below!

At least we'll have a new 5.12! ;)


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : The Dark Side (AKA The Sieg... (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: For the record- Dave Sowerby called this thing The Dark Side.

I ripped a hold off that changed the sequence of the crux, but strangely didn't make the route more difficult, just different.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Manson Family Reunion (5.12d)
By: phillip When: Apr 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Let me amend my previous comment on this awesome route to say that, yes, it has a hard, bouldery crux (V5?), but if you stick it the rest of the route is a BLAST! One of the most striking, fun lines in Portland. The final lip encounter is super exciting. This line gets 5 stars anywhere. If you can climb either Dracula or Bad Omen, you can send this thing!


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