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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Phill T When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch. Dunno about sustained (at all) and this was my first 5.9 lead. A few thin moves, but you always have a jug/ledge in view that is a move or two away to shoot for. As long as you look a move or two ahead (especially for your feet) it's pretty easy. Got in 'trouble' up top when I thought I would walk the last 10 feet of the first dihedral, had to downclimb to a stance after pumping myself out in a ridiculous bearhug with the dihedral. Looked at it with a more critical eye and then... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Mudslide (5.10+)
By: Phill T When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: a few golds down low then blues for a while. a few 4s will bring you to the true wideness, but no true offwidth is required, look for hero jugs in the crack within the crack up top! A tipped out 4 will protect the final move, but a 5 would feel much better way up top. A decent rest after the bottom choss and a good ledge before the top wideness keep the pump down. Well worth doing to keep in the shade on a hot day!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side
By: Phill T When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love this little area, great spot for a half day of climbing. That in mind, I was wondering when the last time the tyrol was replaced? The rope looks to be in great condition, but the tree has grown around the rope in some spots, not sure what this does to the integrity of the rope, and it isn't exactly easy to check! Seemed solid when I ran across it this past weekend, but it crossed my mind on the way back. The line snapping mid traverse would be pretty devastating....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10)
By: Phill T When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fly up to the traverse section, reach out and throw in a gold c4. the crux of the traverse is definitely the 'second' part where it goes from great jams to thin hands! The developing 'dent' below the traverse is actually a surprisingly good foot. throw a red in the horizontal and pump out like I did or throw for the vertical crack (blue c4s?) and somehow pull up into it. great route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Freebird (5.10-)
By: Phill T When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10- seems a great grade. straight in jamming perfect hands with a pair of great rests. I'm always gripped at the creek and I was literally singing a little tune while I flaunted my way up this. My first clean lead at the creek too!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Phill T When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Phenomenal. Great pro, but as a leader breaking into the 9s I was glad we brought doubles up to #2 C4s. Yes you can protect it with nuts, but when you can slam a cam in that much faster, makes things easier on the head. We also apparently had some routefinding difficulties. After coming out of the stem box, you are given 2 options. What looks like a 5.8 looking handcrack on the left with a little bulge towards the top, and a thinner looking crack system on the right that looks like it... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Phill T When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that there is what looks to be the beginning of a wasps nest on pitch 3. If I remember correctly it was a bit above and to the left of the little bulge/roof thing right next to a great yellow mastercam placement! Was a bit bigger than a golf ball, but pretty sure I saw the ass end of a wasp going into it as I hastily pulled past it!
This was as of 7/18/09.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Whittle Wall, The (5.7 R)
By: Phill T When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think I did the first pitch. Didn't find any pins, bolts, or chalk for that matter. Pro was scarce, but my belay was good, not sure if it was in the right spot. Ended up traversing right, must have missed the part where it goes up cuz I just traversed right all the way to the ground. Guess I need to work on route finding!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Phill T When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hike in was about an hour and a half. Awesome route. There is a rap/belay station at the beginning of the wideness of pitch 3. We had a #5 and my partner did not place it on the flake pitch, he wishes he had a #6 though. Scary watching him run it out grunting up the flake, I followed using much easier face/layback/stemming, but no chance I would be doing that on lead with 40 feet of runout. The 'pro' rope was still hanging in the back of the crack, but we couldn't get to it The... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+)
By: Phill T When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this was labeled 'wheres cruthers' in my book. Didnt see a plaque. Twin crack start with ring locks on the left and hands/fists on the right up to an all day rest pod. Varied climbing past that through a 'roofish type thing' to another no hands rest if you need it. some more fun moves gets you to the top! super awesome!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Triple Exposure (5.12c/d C1)
By: Phill T When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aided this chosspile yesterday. Loose crumbly rock, every cam placement felt like it was going to rip right out after watching it compress/destroy the rock around it as I weighted it. Lots of pins/pitons/bolts to clip, hard to trust them in this rock. We replaced the webbing at the top anchor, the pitons were noticed to flex on jugging/rappel. Did not need the famed pink tricam on the first pitch, not sure where it was supposed to go. If I was doing it again I would take a full set of nuts, ... more >>
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Snott Girlz (5.10+)
By: Phill T When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: first pitch felt like 10c/d, second pitch more 10a/b.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Estrellita (5.11a)
By: Phill T When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect beta for the route konopa. In the new paperbound guide all of your 10a pitches are listed at 10b. The only one that really warrants a 10 grade at all was the 10th pitch where you either need to do some committing laybacking or offwidth technique to grovel up past the crux. All of the other '10s' were super chill and never felt desperate at all - ie great feet and nice jugs, although like most routes there, some of the jugs are hard to find!
Note you can also climb mr fluffers wild ri... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall
By: Phill T When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried to climb here on 6/28/08, the trail from Boulder Falls is closed citing that it is private property. Any other way in besides hiking all the way down from Upper Dream?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The Bomb (5.4)
By: Phill T When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun slabby and jugalicious. Watch for rockfall from above on the belay ledge, a football sized rockbomb exploded 10 feet away while belaying for the 2nd pitch!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Phill T When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb! Climbed today and someone had slung a boulder at the top of the 2nd pitch for rappel including a locker. Looked only a few days old. For building an anchor up here, forget the chossy holes that look interesting up above, just at the lip of the climb is a fixed pin (on the left in the dihedral, a bit hard to find), a great tunnel to sling, a few bomber nut placements, and the slung rap boulder (or sling it again yourself if you don't trust it).
Also, in the Falcon guidebook, it... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: Phill T When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first trad lead. The offwidth was great for helping to place pro, just throw your arm in and crank it while you fiddle with pro. Didn't have anything bigger than a #2, only used 1 cam, the rest were bomber nut placements the whole way up. Rap off the anchors at the top or, it is possible to scramble up and summit (4th class to 5.1ish?), coming down the other side past the Potato Chip into Redgarden and avoid the walk down and around if you wanted to head over there.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Phill T When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great overall climb. The third pitch should be renamed 'REI crack' based on the abundance of gear/water bottles hopelessly dropped into the abyss! Use the rap chains located NW of the summit (not the cave). It's a bit of a scramble to get to them.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Strange Cargo (5.11a)
By: Phill T When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. Note that the belay station at the top of the third pitch has no chains or rap rings, just sharp bolts! Bring your shoes for the walk back down!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Long Dong Dihedral (5.8)
By: Phill T When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite the simple lead. Was my first trad lead. Really easy to concentrate on finding good placements and not worry about falling at all. I'd put it at a 5.6 slab.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Drop Zone (5.10b)
By: Phill T When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, the third bolt was spinning and the nut on it was loose! I tightend it by hand, but definitely check it when you get there. Also a the obvious sidepull flake up on the upper slab is about to break off, careful if you use it!
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