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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
By: Phill T When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun area for some quality crack climbing. Note that the only anchors in the area are on top of Grass Crack on the far left, so if you want to TR stuff you will have to build your own anchors at the top of the various lines and then deal with some shenanigans traversing over (easier the higher you go) to the grass crack anchors in order to clean your gear. Alternatively you can walk off over the top of the dome (4th class but kinda sketch).
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hypnotherapy (5.11c/d)
By: Phill T When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still cleaning up, we pulled a melon-sized chunk off down low, and it was raining pebbles the whole time we were on it. Deceivingly pumpy down low to a pretty impossible to read onsight crux (stay right!). There is a good rest before you launch into the crux if you can suss out how to use it.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hippersnapper (5.10)
By: Phill T When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dihedral is super chossy, pulled a baseball chunk out of it. Not straightforward, pumpy, hardest 10 I've been on in a while.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Sub Gorge : Silent Pillar Wall
By: Phill T When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: just like to reiterate that the 'path' in the book connecting silent pillar with the rest of the subgorge via the river does not exist. Be prepared to get your shoes wet or go up and around. We tried to start the day in the shade at Inyo and end it with Silent Pillar via the river path. A good deal of rock hopping and bushwhacking later we were met with some pretty serious rapids that we didnt feel like navigating and had to retrace our steps. Also the 'direct' approach is pretty ghastly dow... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Exasperator (5.10c)
By: Phill T When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: beyond stellar! Save a red c4 for the final left angling section. You can get up high on it and surprisingly easily layback the final section to the chains.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Over The Rainbow (5.10a)
By: Phill T When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: personally thought the 'tricky 5.9' move at the end of the third pitch was harder than the '10a' move getting out of the p4 arch, and I was leading on the arch! Last two pitches easily link with a 60. I think this route is a great intro to any of the apron routes to get comfy with the friction the granite gives you. If you are seconding a pitch, try to not even look at your feet and see how you do, its surprising how solid it feels!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Liquid Gold (5.10+)
By: Phill T When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: to help ID p1, you can see some rap anchors towards the top of p1 left of the slab traverse. The '10c OW' on p3 is no such thing. maybe a 5.9 chimney with no OW required if you face out and rack on the right. We had a full double rack to 4" and my partner only had 2 small aliens and 3-4 nuts left after leading the monster 70m final pitch! Rap down Bulletheads East with a single 70. every pitch was different and fun!
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Princely Ambitions (5.9)
By: Phill T When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: stellar! sling your last piece (#3 c4 for me) before you make the face traverse out right super long and then dont place anything until you get to the hand traverse (green alien) to avoid hanging yourself with ropedrag later on. I think I used 12 slings in all.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Great Northern Slab : Aires (5.8+)
By: Phill T When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: if you dont want to grunt through the chimney, you can go left and up a little 5.6 groove and then traverse right on a slopey ledge with a finger crack in the back (protects with blue/purple metolious) to rejoin the route at the top of the chimney. fun route!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : New Testament (5.10a)
By: Phill T When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Rim Job (5.10b)
By: Phill T When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this line was better and quite a bit easier than Gruff next door. Its a series of thoughtful moves punctuated by great rests before the next move. slammer hands for the top 1/3 to the chains. Lots of bird evidence tho.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Friday's Jinx (5.7)
By: Phill T When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: there are chains at the top of p2 and a 60 will get you down in 2 raps. The p2 dihedral is sweet!
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