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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Coup de' tat (5.13a/b) : Photo
By: Phil Persson When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn Jesse. Yeah!!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Phil Persson When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a place. Nowhere quite like it. Lumpy is vaguely similar, but not as scenic overall IMO. Missing Arizona!!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a classic shot. Very cool!
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Return to Forever (5.9+)
By: Phil Persson When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route.... agreed with Mr. Fienup, there are some slightly devious/tricky moves, but great pro [small cams and rp's], beatuful rock, and fantastic location make this one of the best routes I have done anywhere for it's grade. Very highly reccomended!!
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Location: Phil Persson : Random Climbing/Mountaineer... : Photo
By: Phil Persson When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha thats right.... now you know the reason I have so many cams....
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Mother 1 (5.7+)
By: Phil Persson When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hell.
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.7 Dihedral (5.7)
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun! I love this crag! 30 second approach, usually empty, great Trad in addition to TR's and Sport routes... there's something here for everyone.
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.8 Crack (5.8)
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short, but very fun trad lead. Great Aid practice too! Planning on sharpening my aid skills on this route and the nearby cracks in preparation for the Finger of Fate on the Titan in a few weeks... :) :)
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : Changing Corners (5.8)
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great easy trad lead, no need to TR this unless you uncomfortable with runouts on easy ground, the pro is kinda sparse past the dihedral and onto the arete as you said though, so maybe a PG-13 Route for the lead. Very fun warm-up though for the harder cracks around the corner!
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.9 Crack aka "Into the Voi... (5.9)
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route! Unusual quality rock compared to your typical Clear Creek metamorphosed Choss. More of a true gneiss than much of the low-grade metapelitic schist/arkose [low temp/pressure metamorphosed sedimentary rocks basically] found in the rest of the upper canyon. Sorry for the geologist-speak! :)
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Finger... (5.10c C1)
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A Wonderful little route, would prob. be old-school 5.9+ at Eldo, pulling the roof actually isn't that bad, you can fire in a bomber Blue TCU or equivalent for some piece of mind right above the roof, and its just a big pull on jugs. Fun, thin moves below this as well with a few decent fingerlocks in the thin crack. The rock here in excellent, not to mention 5 minutes from my house! :)
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : 10 Sheep and a Goat (5.9+)
By: Phil Persson When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA 10-3-08 Phil Persson & Tim Crennan.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Phil Persson When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic; in all honestly the first pitch my be my favorite trad line anywhere; fantastic, varied, and sustained climbing makes this a classic moderate. Just when things start to feel a little hairy one of the magic "wrap your hand around" flakes of a bomber finger jam appears. Eat's TCUs and C3s for breakfast. We found with a 70m rope and some rope management [read: long slings] you can get to the top of the Bastille via the end of Bastille Crack from the Werk Supp PI an... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Phil Persson When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic. Worth the lines and the hype and the chalk and the gumbies because it's just that good. Varied, thought-provoking climbing from the bouldery start to the exposed arete at the end, just awesome moves on impeccable rock. You can get to the ground off the last rappel with a 70m rope but will have to downclimb a 5.easy chimney for about 10 feet. Definitely do the direct finish up the pin ladder if it is within your ability, the exposure is fantastic and it is well bolt protected@SEMIC... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Photo
By: Phil Persson When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh my god that is an amazing photo. So many jugs..... so. many. jugs. I want to pull on them all haha.... wish we had rock like that in Colorado.... except if we did there would be 3 billion bolts and metric tons of greasy rubber and chalk on it.... ah well. All in good fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Phil Persson When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route...crux for me was almost more the final move topping out on tenuous slopers than the lower balancy sidepull move. Definitely sequency this kicked my ass the first time, but looking forward to going back.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Litlle Kitten (5.10c)
By: Phil Persson When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is awesome. Doesn't feel like a sport climb for sure.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: Phil Persson When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this again 8/24/08; wicked fun, I like the previous analogy to "adventure sport climbing." A fun CCC classic. The exposure making the mantle move to the crux over the roof is fantastic. fun link-up would be the last pitch on Wild Child to the true top of Mission Wall, but we weren't quite sure how to get over there from where "Gneiss Ride" ect.. ends on the Surrette Ledge.
-Phil.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: Phil Persson When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route or a rough approximation of it today; 8/24/08, a really awesome and fun climb, there was a decent bit of snow and ice in places on the first pitch thanks to a recent storm, but other than that I thought the conditions were great. We climbed this in 4 pitches running out a 70 meter rope almost to the end on each pitch; I figured maybe 850 feet of roped climbing all in all. I brought a moderate rack small C3s through a #4 Camalot with some bigger hexe... more >>
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Location: Phil Persson : Random Climbing/Mountaineer... : Photo
By: Phil Persson When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah Enchanted Tower, how I miss you and your mondo jugs!!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: Phil Persson When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this over Beanfest weekend, 4-12-08, wonderful route. Fun, mostly moderate climbing with good pro and minimal rotefinding. Surprised this doesn't see more action considering I think it rank's close to classics on Sheepshead like 'Too Tough to Die', 'Absinthe of Mallet', ect.. The infamous 'Wedge' on PIII is pretty unique... squueze through the heinous chimmney if you can fit... or sprice it up with a strenuous chimmney/OW section protected by 3 bolts for some nice peace of mind. The last... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : South Fin : Old Man (5.9)
By: Phil Persson When: Jan 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route on 1-19-08; great climb, for me the crux was stepping out from under the lower roof into the crack, as well as a few tricky face moved down low. Overall though i thought it took very good pro and followed a great line; very fun long climb. One of the best 5.9's I've climbed for sure.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: Phil Persson When: Jan 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route; did this on 1-21-08, Every pitch is excellent, some moderately tricky, balancy face moves on PI and PIV and some mild runout's keep things interesting for sure, and the feeling of exposure being up there is incredible. We did this in 7 pitches but in hindsight you can easily link P6 and P7 into one long pitch with a 60 or 70M rope. Very well bolted for the most part, a few runouts on easy chickenhead hiking which can optionallyh be protected by slinging small chickenhead... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (5.9+)
By: Phil Persson When: Nov 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the Gneiss-Ride linkup this past Sunday at the Mission Wall and found it to be a really adventurous, different-feeling line than most other Clear Creek Canyon climbs; pulling the roof crux is def. a little tricky, the protection is bomber though if you can get a #2 or #3 Camalot in the vertical roof crack, plus the ledge above the rood mantle can take a few medium-sized cams for peace of mind. I found there was a little bit of route finding on P4, not too bad though, a... more >>
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