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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : William's Canyon
By: Phil Lauffen When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely there are holds that break off. But (at least in the lower end of the scale=<5.11) I only had one hold break off on me. And that hold now won't break on anyone else. Maybe that someone won't have a hold break on them at all. Overall, the rock I was on seemed very solid, but again I can't speak for the 5.12 routes.
However, the Green's did climb these routes so they had to have held at least one ascent. Also, how is this much different from the garden of the gods? I have ... more >>
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Location: Phil Lauffen : non climbing related pictur... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I may not be the neatest with duct tape....
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley : The Spider's Web : Wheelin N' Dealin (5.13c R) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that rope is definitely not in the right location.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : William's Canyon
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Information for this area can be found at Stewart Green's site in the Pikes Peak area topo.
http://www.stewartgreen.com/html/topos/pikes-peak-topo-stewa>>>>>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like every other climb on the dome, Gorilla's Delight is a sandbag. The upper crux is at least 10-. There is currently a fixed nut (which I did not place) in situ at the top of the second crack (after the slab) which protects the crux very well. And it works, as I discovered.
After falling a few times off the slab moves above the crack, I decided to belay my second up to the outstanding hanging belay right below the crux, from there he could coach me through the tenuous moves out of the crack a... more >>
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How is the climbing at the end of March? Too hot? Also, any beta on the drive to the nearest beach? (gf)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This does make your legs hurt. There is a bomber 0.3 BD above my head.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uhhhh....
This doesn't look casual to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. One of the best of the trad climbs in the Boulder Canyon area (Left Side - WWW, Where Eagles Dare - Blob Rock, Cosmosis - Bell Buttress, and Security Risk). The 10d start is protectable for any competent trad climber and should not be avoided unless 5.9 is your limit. I had gear above my head the entire way. There's even a fixed nut directly below the crux. Great stemming options throughout (no hands rest below the crux, though strenuous on the legs).
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Location: WY : Pinedale Area : Halfmoon Lake : Lower Peninsula Face : Caleb's Day Out (5.9+ V2-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: so n is the difference between the real grade and the sandbag grade... a difference of n=V2. So the sandbag grade is 5.9+ and this* says V2 is 5.11d, so 5.9++5.11d=5.12b range for the real grade? I'm not sure how this works...
http://www.spadout.com/wiki/index.php/Climbing_Grades
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Location: WY : Pinedale Area : Halfmoon Lake : Lower Peninsula Face : Caleb's Day Out (5.9+ V2-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So wouldn't it be V0- then?
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Location: WY : Pinedale Area : Halfmoon Lake : Lower Peninsula Face : Caleb's Day Out (5.9+ V2-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm confused. a 5.9+ climb is now V2? Or is there a 5.9+ climb leading to a V2 boulder problem?
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Wages of Sin (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would make too much sense. Better to just bitch about it and beat your chest proclaiming what a hard man you are.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : A7 -V1 (V1)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: - cough Rosy Crucifixion *cough
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Dihedral (5.8)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun TR to set for novice climbers, or a good climb for beginning leaders. Great stemming stances and excellent nut placements made this easy to sew up.
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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Boulder Rock Club : The Black One (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You sandbagger.
Maybe a foothold broke or something. The chalk dust may have been particularly thick that day.
Definitely straight 11.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this with Brian today. First of all, awesome climb. It seems to me that everyone has a different experience on this climb. I found the crux of the route for me to be the hand crack leaving the large detached "eagle's nest" flake. However, I suck at all kinds of crack except for my specialty.... thin tips. The thin overhang was one move of 5.10a followed by a decent rest to a strange stemming/manteling sequence that just felt a little balancey.
The second pitch was super exciting. I placed a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Statics and Structures (V3)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a V3? God I suck....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a fantastic picture. I want a poster.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah. That's probably why it felt harder.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Jump Start (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this climb a while ago when I thought I was climbing gobblers grunt. It was hard to find the twin finger cracks above.... anyways, true to beta for gobblers grunt I traversed into the crack to the left right below the wide part. Interesting variation, I'm not sure if it avoids the hard part or not.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb reminded me of Tanks for Huecos in Penitente Canyon. However, this climb has less chalk, is less polished, is more sustained at the grade, and is infinitely more adventurous. So, if Tanks for Huecos gets 4 stars.... An absolutely stellar pitch. If you like steep jug hauling, get on this route. In respect to the gear question... honestly I think the longest runout I had was 10 feet. and I was skipping possible placements. I agree, placing gear does pump you out. But I would get pumped ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just don't know. I floated the crux pitch of Handcracker Direct, which is supposedly a 5.10a handcrack. Then I jump on the second pitch of this, a 5.9ish hand crack. Which one should be harder? I guess I really suck at crack climbing....sometimes.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Morte (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude, I got a great #1 Ballnut in behind one of those solid(er) looking rocks in the 5.6 section. Totally bomber. Also, totally nasty rope drag at the top. Be smarter than me. Place long runners on your pieces before moving right around the roof.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, looked at it. I bet it's been done before. Everything has.
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