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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Dirty Minds (5.9 M6 R)
By: phil wortmann When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a great addition to the Dark Side. We found every pitch to be time consuming due the wet snow, and that the route is new enough that the climbing and gear placements are definitely not obvious. Each pitch was fairly sustained and thought provoking. Just keep moving and trust that you'll find something....
The last pitch through the chimney definitely makes this a big-boy route! Props to the FA crew. Very runout, but the chimney gives you some security.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : The Ole 6 (5.11 WI3 M6+)
By: phil wortmann When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My new fav line on the Peak, but maybe I'm a little biased. I thought the crux was the off-width section at the start of our 3rd pitch.
P.S. this line may have been climbed as a rock route in summer by one of the various Springs old school hard men, but we found no evidence of previous passage.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Assumption (WI5 M5)
By: phil wortmann When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Don Doucette.
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Location: OK : Chandler Park : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot Tom! I loved this route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Single Gun Theory (5.11c)
By: phil wortmann When: Oct 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is nowhere near three stars. Contrived line to CHIPPED holds. Compared to partners or apple, this is a bomb. Sorry man, but I couldn't recommend this climb to anyone.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: phil wortmann When: Nov 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know, Steph, I've seen the way you eat and if you keep that up you'll be in my weight category.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: phil wortmann When: Nov 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Get a life. Clip it or skip it. Actually, all involved chose to clip it the first several times on this route, then hypocritically talked trash to the first ascensionists. If the bolts weren't there for you to "suss it out", then your pansy asses probably never would've left the ground. I know I wouldn't, but I'm not going to talk shit about two guys that forgot more about being hardmen than you will ever know. And, when they sent Starlight, they told a few friends, instead of blogging that they... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Cardiac Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Mar 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a beast!
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Location: Shane Neal : My Vertical Pix : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Feb 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a classic
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pangborn's Pinnacle : Center Dihedral (5.9)
By: phil wortmann When: Jan 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great topo, Stich! especially for as confusing as this route can be. The crack to the left is a good 5.9 alternative as well.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: phil wortmann When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lordsokol, don't let Stefan's modesty fool you. He just climbed The Diamond FROM BOULDER in 10 & 1/2 hrs, biking there and back. Great job Stefan & co. Inspiration for the rest of us mortals.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Grapefruit Dance (5.12b)
By: phil wortmann When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The X doesn't need to be popped off. If you don't want to use it, then don't.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-) : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually the next to last pitch of the climb.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : In Your Face (5.11)
By: phil wortmann When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI- some serious poison ivy at the base, but avoidable.
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Location: UT : Green River
By: phil wortmann When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: any info on climbing in Deso?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : ... : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top of 2nd.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Real Black Velvet (5.11c)
By: phil wortmann When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Props for a sick line Mr. Russell. Loved every bit of it. This one has a little of everything, from flaring cracks, steep shit, and thin slab. Got the on-sight, but barely. It had me shaking.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: phil wortmann When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two simple solutions to your rope drag problem.
1- back up the bolt at the lip past the manta ray with a bomber cam, and top rope from there.
2- back up the third bolt above the manta ray with a triple length runner around a bomber horn. TR from there.
The last climber simply climbs to the top anchors and cleans the route.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: phil wortmann When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it feasible to climb here in December?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Russian Arete (5.9+) : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like the fourth pitch (5.7). Second pitch was the crux. Wouldn't want to confuse anyone.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9) : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this is the infamous Ken kaniff from connecticut. Although these days he's nationwide.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Slash
By: phil wortmann When: Oct 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...the GASH.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : ... : Photo
By: phil wortmann When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I mean it in a very manly way.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: phil wortmann When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, I'm not sure where you got that I think CS is a "destination ice climbing area," but if you visited here, you probably noticed that we have nearly a million people living in El Paso County. Over crowding at Hully Gully has been an issue already before this was posted and will likely increase now, especially on weekends. This has been the site of at least one fatality, but with proper use (i.e. lead only) we may prevent more accidents.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Stiff Little Fingers (5.11c/d)
By: phil wortmann When: Jun 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very stiff, 12-.
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