Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux Move


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
is a member of
Point Rank: # 276
Total Points: 2,282
Last Year: 171
Last 30 Days: 17
106 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2708 | Routes 36 | Areas 8 | Photos 270 | Page Improvements | Comments 452 | Posts 1416 | Stars 401 | Ratings 125
Page 2 of 19.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The bolts are in terrible locations and make the crux avoiding tangling the rope in your feet and clipping.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Home Free (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As the fearless belayer, it actually is.

Maybe it is second behind the manky anchor ripping while I am screaming TAKE on toprope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Heads up on the poison ivy at the base of the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: ^It must suck being such a tightwad.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : It's Time to Drink Beer (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Who sez there ain't slab climbing at el rito?


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Whipper Wonderland (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is scary, George. It ain't that overhung! You're in for a literal whipping if your belayer doesn't give you a soft, but short, catch.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Lost Cities (5.12- R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Bailed off this Saturday. Good news is that it is quite easy to do in 4 raps with a 70m! Bad news is then you have to walk out the gully with your head hung low.

What killed the psych for me:

1) Started off kinda feeling lousy.
2) Wetness on the 5.8 pitch below the crux scared me quite a bit (turned 5.8 chimneying into low .10 stemming with poor protection).
3) Realizing that if I got scared by low .10 stemming with poor protection, what the hell was I doing on this route?
4) Seeing the awkwar... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Does this route have a chipped hold? It looks like one, feels like one... kinda leads me to think it is one, which detracts one star from the quality.

I wonder if that move would go without it. I think it would, but bump the grade up a letter or two.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome climb! 13a... probably not. Everyone I saw on it on Saturday used some holds out left at the 2nd bolt with a delicate traverse back to the right to clip the 3rd bolt. Perhaps climbing straight up is much more difficult? Also, there is an uncomfortable "look ma, no-hands!" rest in the dihedral.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Almost clocked my belayer with a cherry pie slice sized piece of rock after the crux. Just cuz it's been there awhile doesn't mean some dumbass like myself can't rip it off!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've done it in two pitches with a 70m a few times. I linked 1+2, 3+4+5.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Battlement Crag : In the Line of Fire (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Weirdest route I'm never going to do again.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I get scared just looking at that picture, mad Mike.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Little freaky deaky in the crux. There's a great, blind #1 RP placement instead of a pin, though!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If you can pull the move on this "11d", the crux of ejection seat will feel like a piece of cake.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Fullphilment (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I tried to warm up on this and found it to be... well... not the best gentle entrance into a day of climbing at Rifle. It was covered with a thin film of dust and required pulling hard moves when you were looking at a biggish fall. Very wandery. This route is maybe good for the 11/12 climber looking to do something between burns on other routes on the wall.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : McTech Roof (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: DO WHAT KEDRON SAYS^^^^


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Mighty Mouse (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If this were in Eldo proper, you'd have to draw a number and get in line to destroy your finger tips. Excellent, rather (at least how I did it) gymnastic climbing that keeps on you the entire way.

Going up the first time of the day, before there is chalk on the camouflaged holds, will feel a few letter grades harder.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Briar's Birth (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I threw some flakes at my belayer when I tried this last time. Also... the overhanging #4 crack at the top isn't easy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Movement of Fear (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a stellar route with big air potential when you blow it at the crux. Watch for sharp draws... I would usually replace the crux draw with one of my own when I was working the route 'cause I'm a weenie who doesn't want to die.

And I kept my draws because I'm a cheap bastahd.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : The V-Slaught (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I have tried the second pitch and found it to be pretty damn unique, and pretty darn hard. It would be a great boulder problem... too bad it is 80 feet off the ground.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : The Brothers Carrutherzov (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The diving board is feeling a bit hollow. Step lightly!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : New Beginnings (5.12-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the gear beta, Pinkly. I'll add my own onsight spoilers...

Good red Alien and yellow Alien where Matt got the #3 Metolius, and black and blue Alien where Matt got the #0 and #1 TCUs. A right kneebar pad would get you a no hands rest at a tricky spot. The lead seemed reasonable with this gear, but you don't want to blow it at at least two spots. Stuff was still coming off when I climbed it, but it should be cleaning up....

Fun climbing!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Muricuh (5.12)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Kneepad would be nice. You'd get no hander before the crux. Fun route overall!

It felt committing clipping the bolt above the roof. You are on relatively insecure underclings reaching far back to your left, and you'd be close to, if not on the deck if you blew it. Just something to be aware of I suppose....


Page 2 of 19.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!