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Rock Climbing Photo: Crux Move


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 31 mins ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 273
Total Points: 2,260
Last Year: 290
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2679 | Routes 36 | Areas 8 | Photos 267 | Page Improvements | Comments 445 | Posts 1401 | Stars 399 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 19, 2009

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Comments: While free soloing this I was thinking of analogies. It's kinda like a rock highway broken up by large holes and mounds. The majority of the climb was flat enough for me to stand up and simply walk. However, the trickery came and slapped me in the face a couple of times. I'll let you figure it out. In terms of rock quality, it was mostly good but very lichen-encrusted and loose flakes abound. This route could use some cleaning, but it does add to the character. At the hardest gap (the second I t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 18, 2009

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Comments: This is a great climb. Thanks for the awesome route description. The approach was very scenic and only felt like it took half an hour. I brought the #4 and wished I had left it at home. On the way back we stopped at the boulders off the trail about a quarter mile from the road. What a great January day.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Wiggins' Wall : Fringe of Death (5.9+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 7, 2009

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Comments: This route imo is much harder than any other 5.9+ in RRCOS and some 5.10a routes. Three distinct cruxes. First one is at the first bolt, the next one is at the third bolt, and the last is the sprint to the anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 12, 2008

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Comments: Not a lot of fun. The pitch up the V-slot is the only pitch worth doing (and perhaps the first 15 feet of the first pitch if you take the semi-unprotected direct start). The V-slot makes you sweat and think, but before long you are out of it and topping out on boring terrain. The first pitch is too ledgy; basically a series of easy bouldering problems. I don't know if my fears of decking were legitimate, but they were always in the back of my mind.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: I just don't understand this photo....are you doing a full 360 degree rotation?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: I've never seen this part of the Army Route before. I don't think this is the Army Route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 6, 2008

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Comments: I'm wondering what the route is you always pass by on your way to the Redgarden wall, before the roof routes. It's the steeply overhanging cave on your right with maybe 6 fixed draws and an anchor about 40 ft off the deck. I don't even know where to look for it on MP....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 5, 2008

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Comments: Bold leads like this are inspiring to all generations of climbers, not to mention the sweet pix! Keep them coming!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Rampart Park : The Rock Climbs (5.5) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 20, 2008

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Comments: Is this a rock climb?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: Well, I'll beat this climb to death a little more. #11 hex (does anyone but me carry them???) fits nicely in quite a few spots, most noticeably the OW pitch 2 crack since I'm too cheap to buy a #4 Camalot. Make sure you make the traverse around the right to the base of the ow before setting up your first anchor; otherwise rope drag sucks. Upper Ruper is incredible (DO IT) and can be done in two rope stretching pitches. I didn't really get any substantial pro in on the trav... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Tunnel Vision (5.7 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 30, 2008

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Comments: I still remember this climb as one of the harder 7s I have ever done. Tricky section before you even get to the first bolt got me thinking; and you are well off the ground above gnarly looking rocks and roots. After that, it's a well polished slab with thought provoking reaches and smears between bolts that seem too widely spaced to my RRCOS trained mind.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : North Side : The Ridge : Pain (V7+ PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 15, 2008

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Comments: Not a V7 plus then....? I have a story: one time I read on mp.com about some sick boulder problems out in Rampart Park. After about an hour of whacking bush, I finally resigned myself to the fact that the "boulders" were really the 4 foot high piles of graham cracker consistency rock I had been blatantly ignoring. Did you have similar experience here, willo?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Wiggins' Wall : The Youth (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: You are undoubtedly right! I guess I can't claim to be climbing 5.10s anymore!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Prelude to King Kong (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: I really like this climb. Maybe not as classic as The Owl, but an exciting finger crack problem, with bomber gear placements the entire way. Since I'm not that good, I took the 5.7 crack to the left of Gorilla's Delight and found a sweet sequence of jams. The Dome surely possesses quite a few gems. GET DOME!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 4, 2008

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Comments: Incredible. The pitch after you belay at the tree is phenomenal. I was euphoric while leading it, managed to get a tricam, and a cam in along with the two or three pins I clipped along the way. Stay a minute and appreciate the EXPOSURE below. Not for the faint of heart, as a fall on the pitch after The Crow's Nest has the potential for some broken bones if you screw up. The rap can be done with a 60M rope, and in the wind. After watching the ends of our rope flail wildly about for a few minutes,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 3, 2008

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Comments: Multiple slings and a rap ring on this tree as of today.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Jason's Argonaut (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 1, 2008

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Comments: I've led this about three times and agree that it is comparable with [Pockets a' Plenty]. However, I think if you stick to the right instead of crossing over to the left down below the crux it may cross over into the RRCOS .10- range...IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: Interesting climb. After bushwhacking around the area, we actually ended up behind the West Ironing Board. After some discussion, we decided to just go up a likely looking crack on the back. After the first ascent of Cobra Fang Power(5.7+), as christened by my partner that lead it (Probably not a FA but it's fun to pretend), we ended up on Smoother pretty much right below the two bolt anchor. So we skipped most of the hard, runout part for a juggy overhang with decent pro. After that it was pret... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 29, 2008

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Comments: I want to go!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly Direct (5.7 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2008

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Comments: This isn't a climb to approach lightly. There is one 30 footish section where it is imposible to place pro and serious fall could result. This same section also contains the hardest parts of the climb. As soon as I finished the unprotectable part, I jammed about three pieces in within a five foot span to make myself feel better. Be confident at the grade and be prepared for what feels like a free solo. Come equipped with big cahones or lack of grey matter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Baker's Way (5.3)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: I definitely missed the step up and then the gully....but the gully I found farther up wasn't bad t'all. I feel this is simply a rising traverse of the First Flatiron. Don't worry too much about getting 'off route', unless it leads you into dangerous territory.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : First Buttress : Flash Dihedral (Knapp Versi... (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: This felt really easy. I would rate it 5.6 at the most, maybe 5.5... I had to go back and do it straight up all the slabs without using the big cracks (on TR) to make it feel like a 5.8


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Direct North Face (5.9 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: I climbed this today, and was slightly repulsed and amused at grasping at a pile of bird crap for a hold. It was very solid, keep in mind. (Interesting question: what if an animal alters a climb in this way?). I went to the top and set up a TR by scrambling some fourth class terrain to the top and using about 20 foot runners. It worked well. I had a 60 meter rope and found that it was plenty long enough to reach the ground on the north side (though just barely if attached by single-length runner... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Don't Tell Mom (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 20, 2008

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Comments: Isn't this the same route as "Trail Route." This post contains the correct name and grade, but I was just wondering if there was one sport route at Ute that I was unaware of.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Inside S. Face (1st pinnacl... (5.9 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 17, 2008

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Comments: Fun TR. Easy to get to the anchors from the west.


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