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Rock Climbing Photo: It is pumpy up there. Kristoff taking the whip.


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 269
Total Points: 2,384
Last Year: 272
Last 30 Days: 7
115 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2736 | Routes 40 | Areas 10 | Photos 276 | Page Improvements | Comments 454 | Posts 1424 | Stars 406 | Ratings 126
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Demi Lune : Carte Blanche (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: 7 bolts total certainly adds to the excitement.


Location: Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Cascade : Corps Etranger (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Gets 12c in the new guidebook, which is a bit of a sandbag. Probably soft 7c (12d).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Right hand on the sloping shelf right under the draw, work left with the left to the first gaston, get your feet up a little, bump your left hand to a shallow, gastonish-type feature with your fingers in the crack. Now, pop your right foot up on the crimp underneath your right hand (you can't miss it), and press up on your right foot, using that shitty intermediate with your right to go all the way to the base of that pebbly crack thing with your right (iron cross position here). Match it with y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Physical Graffiti (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: I'm not sure how you get down rapping to the Le Void anchor... the rat's nest is super tough to get to. We ended up leaving a biner on the two bolts of After the Gold Rush....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: This climb is eroding like my optimism in the intelligence of the American population as Trump gets closer to election.

Holds have seriously degraded from when I was up there last 2 weeks ago. That bottom boulder is fecking hard. I still haven't been able to stick the huck from the bad right hand to the sloping 'jug'. I wonder what it felt like in its near-virgin state.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: We found a pair of La Sportiva solutions today at the base of Oourosbadass/Snake Watching/Honey Badger today. We thought they were the possessions of the party climbing Ouroswhatever, so we hiked em out, but turns out they weren't theirs. I'd love to get them back to you. Send me a PM, pleasssseee.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Public Enemy (5.13c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: 5th bolt (one you would clip from pocket?) is currently equipped with just a stud.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Hasta La Hueco (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: I check in at about 5'8+" (5'10" if you're of the female variety), and I found some alternate beta that just involved sucking up the left hand to a worse sport on the side pull before going big. I also did it with a cross-dyno that didn't feel toooo bad. All I'm saying is I don't think it's 13a, at least at my height.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Addiction : Addiction (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: This felt harder than cartoon graveyard at 5'8"


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Mevlana : Come as you are (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This thing is impossible unless you can snap an iphone in half by pinching it between your fingertips and palm.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Cardinal Sin (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This climb hasn't gotten easier in the past 30 years with the polish. Andrew Bisharat's comment about Rifle being soft as baby shit made me think we need to erase his memory and see if he can pull this off when he doesn't have the beta wired :)


Location: Asia : Jordan : Wadi Rum
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: I have a blog post about a trip Mia Kvåle Løvmo and I did here in early 2015:

invertphil.net/eden-of-sand/


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Huh, that was dumb of me not to pinpoint it. I think we're talking about the same one, Brett.

Great climb nonetheless.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Dos Hermanos (5.11+) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: what tilt shift?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Bloodhound (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic route. More people should get on it. I think it's a reasonable onsight at the grade, because there is a lot of opportunity to hang out, test out holds, downclimb to stances, etc.

There were draws on it this weekend, so it's a great time to try out this awesome new addition.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: The new bolt makes that pitch a lot more reasonable but still committing. Thanks!

My friend broke a hold off the crux (he's fat)... it's probably more difficult now. There was a team behind us, so they may have some idea.

In terms of quality... most of the pitches had kinda nasty chimneys with a lot of awkward climbing. There were a few worthwhile pitches up high that made it 'Worth Doing Once'.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Wall of Voodoo : Porch Monkey (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Nope. Let's all chill out, bruh.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Squeal to Stihl (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : Valley Crags : ... : L'Escamarla (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: This route kicks ass. Dyno leading to pumpy crack and traverse to a beautiful arete. Yesterday I sent this route and my friend belayed Sonnie Trotter on his send of Estado Critico. All climbers need to go to Spain.


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Alabalik (Salmon) : Alabalik Balkon 4 : Parallel Universe (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: "rig"


Location: Europe : Turkey : Olympos : Hörgüç Magara (Horguch C... : Sahte Budist (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing felt way burlier than your 11d rating would imply... but I think that the conditions I climbed it in today made it feel more like a 7b/+ than the 7a you're giving it.

Some critical holds felt like they were coated with mud in the oppressive humidity.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Arhi : Eros (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: I skipped the 4th draw as it is a very difficult clip if you aren't an apeman. I also took the fall... and it ain't nothin to sweat about, honey.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Sikati Cave : Laurent...y' a Quelque' un (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Wild route. O-dub skillz may assist you in your quest to the rings at the top... or not. Easy to back clean the first 3 or so draws, which is a capital idea if you want to "send".


Location: Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : Mascun : ... : A Cravita (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: In the Kalandraka guidebook, this is called A Crabita.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I think the first 2 bolts were moved to make it safer. I took a couple of lobbers trying to get to the clipping underclean at the 3rd bolt and was not anywhere near the deck.


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