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Rock Climbing Photo: Crux Move


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 273
Total Points: 2,260
Last Year: 290
Last 30 Days: 5
99 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2679 | Routes 36 | Areas 8 | Photos 267 | Page Improvements | Comments 445 | Posts 1401 | Stars 399 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Mevlana : Come as you are (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This thing is impossible unless you can snap an iphone in half by pinching it between your fingertips and palm.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Cardinal Sin (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This climb hasn't gotten easier in the past 30 years with the polish. Andrew Bisharat's comment about Rifle being soft as baby shit made me think we need to erase his memory and see if he can pull this off when he doesn't have the beta wired :)


Location: Asia : Jordan : Wadi Rum
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: I have a blog post about a trip Mia Kvåle Løvmo and I did here in early 2015:

invertphil.net/eden-of-sand/


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Huh, that was dumb of me not to pinpoint it. I think we're talking about the same one, Brett.

Great climb nonetheless.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Dos Hermanos (5.12-) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: what tilt shift?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Bloodhound (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic route. More people should get on it. I think it's a reasonable onsight at the grade, because there is a lot of opportunity to hang out, test out holds, downclimb to stances, etc.

There were draws on it this weekend, so it's a great time to try out this awesome new addition.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: The new bolt makes that pitch a lot more reasonable but still committing. Thanks!

My friend broke a hold off the crux (he's fat)... it's probably more difficult now. There was a team behind us, so they may have some idea.

In terms of quality... most of the pitches had kinda nasty chimneys with a lot of awkward climbing. There were a few worthwhile pitches up high that made it 'Worth Doing Once'.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Wall of Voodoo : Porch Monkey (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Nope. Let's all chill out, bruh.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Squeal to Stihl (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : Valley Crags : ... : L'Escamarla (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: This route kicks ass. Dyno leading to pumpy crack and traverse to a beautiful arete. Yesterday I sent this route and my friend belayed Sonnie Trotter on his send of Estado Critico. All climbers need to go to Spain.


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Alabalik (Salmon) : Alabalik Balkon 4 : Parallel Universe (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: "rig"


Location: Europe : Turkey : Olympos : Hörgüç Magara (Horguch C... : Sahte Budist (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing felt way burlier than your 11d rating would imply... but I think that the conditions I climbed it in today made it feel more like a 7b/+ than the 7a you're giving it.

Some critical holds felt like they were coated with mud in the oppressive humidity.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Arhi : Eros (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: I skipped the 4th draw as it is a very difficult clip if you aren't an apeman. I also took the fall... and it ain't nothin to sweat about, honey.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Sikati Cave : Laurent...y' a Quelque' un (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Wild route. O-dub skillz may assist you in your quest to the rings at the top... or not. Easy to back clean the first 3 or so draws, which is a capital idea if you want to "send".


Location: Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : Mascun : ... : A Cravita (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: In the Kalandraka guidebook, this is called A Crabita.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I think the first 2 bolts were moved to make it safer. I took a couple of lobbers trying to get to the clipping underclean at the 3rd bolt and was not anywhere near the deck.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: It was scary getting to the first bolt... but there are options to rap in to pre-clip it if necessary. The scary thing to me was having ONE qd between me and the ground... shit happens. Maybe use a double locker qd.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Kubrick's : Lord Bullingdon (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: I thought this climb was licheny, scary, and not fun at all.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: The bolts are in terrible locations and make the crux avoiding tangling the rope in your feet and clipping.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Home Free (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: As the fearless belayer, it actually is.

Maybe it is second behind the manky anchor ripping while I am screaming TAKE on toprope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Heads up on the poison ivy at the base of the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: ^It must suck being such a tightwad.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : It's Time to Drink Beer (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Who sez there ain't slab climbing at el rito?


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Whipper Wonderland (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: This climb is scary, George. It ain't that overhung! You're in for a literal whipping if your belayer doesn't give you a soft, but short, catch.


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