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RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen


Point Rank: # 280
Total Points: 1,880
Last Year: 97
Last 30 Days: 18
87 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All (2526) | Routes (21) | Areas (3) | Photos (241) | Comments (420) | Posts (1357) | Stars (366) | Ratings (118)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Awesome climb! 13a... probably not. Everyone I saw on it on Saturday used some holds out left at the 2nd bolt with a delicate traverse back to the right to clip the 3rd bolt. Perhaps climbing straight up is much more difficult? Also, there is an uncomfortable "look ma, no-hands!" rest in the dihedral.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Almost clocked my belayer with a cherry pie slice sized piece of rock after the crux. Just cuz it's been there awhile doesn't mean some dumbass like myself can't rip it off!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: I've done it in two pitches with a 70m a few times. I linked 1+2, 3+4+5.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Battlement Crag : In the Line of Fire (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Weirdest route I'm never going to do again.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: I get scared just looking at that picture, mad Mike.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Little freaky deaky in the crux. There's a great, blind #1 RP placement instead of a pin, though!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: If you can pull the move on this "11d", the crux of ejection seat will feel like a piece of cake.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Fullphilment (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: I tried to warm up on this and found it to be... well... not the best gentle entrance into a day of climbing at Rifle. It was covered with a thin film of dust and required pulling hard moves when you were looking at a biggish fall. Very wandery. This route is maybe good for the 11/12 climber looking to do something between burns on other routes on the wall.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : McTech Roof (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: DO WHAT KEDRON SAYS^^^^


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Mighty Mouse (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: If this were in Eldo proper, you'd have to draw a number and get in line to destroy your finger tips. Excellent, rather (at least how I did it) gymnastic climbing that keeps on you the entire way.

Going up the first time of the day, before there is chalk on the camouflaged holds, will feel a few letter grades harder.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Briar's Birth (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: I threw some flakes at my belayer when I tried this last time. Also... the overhanging #4 crack at the top isn't easy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Movement of Fear (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: This is a stellar route with big air potential when you blow it at the crux. Watch for sharp draws... I would usually replace the crux draw with one of my own when I was working the route 'cause I'm a weenie who doesn't want to die.

And I kept my draws because I'm a cheap bastahd.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : The V-Slaught (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: I have tried the second pitch and found it to be pretty damn unique, and pretty darn hard. It would be a great boulder problem... too bad it is 80 feet off the ground.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : The Brothers Carrutherzov (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: The diving board is feeling a bit hollow. Step lightly!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : New Beginnings (5.12-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the gear beta, Pinkly. I'll add my own onsight spoilers...

Good red Alien and yellow Alien where Matt got the #3 Metolius, and black and blue Alien where Matt got the #0 and #1 TCUs. A right kneebar pad would get you a no hands rest at a tricky spot. The lead seemed reasonable with this gear, but you don't want to blow it at at least two spots. Stuff was still coming off when I climbed it, but it should be cleaning up....

Fun climbing!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Muricuh (5.12)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Kneepad would be nice. You'd get no hander before the crux. Fun route overall!

It felt committing clipping the bolt above the roof. You are on relatively insecure underclings reaching far back to your left, and you'd be close to, if not on the deck if you blew it. Just something to be aware of I suppose....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D7 Variation (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Has anyone gone left at the top of the 11b pitch to the next bolted anchor and tried to climb straight up the dirty crack above the bolts? Is this Soma? We went that way yesterday, and I bailed after the crack ended about 50 ft off the belay. There is a crack to the right which looked climbable, but there was a hanging flake that looked recently detached and was poised to kill my belayer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Hey Bruce, I usually link these pitches with no rope drag issues with a 60m. I just don't remember how much slack I have....

I prefer having a soft catch on that fixed wire on the start of P5 to getting jerked around/landing on my belayer's head.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: You can link 1&2 and 4&5 with a 50m rope.


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: I bet Rob enjoyed that wayyyy too much.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: There are a lot of people talking what big and heavy balls they have. If you really have what it takes, go up there and lead it on gear and then spray about what a pu$$y CW is. Until then, it's all talk.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : The Promise (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: This under-appreciated route is an odyssey! Get on it!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: My friend Kurt and I went up yesterday to vie for the 2nd free ascent of this route, and while we did not achieve that glory, we had a darn good adventure. Overall, this route is in a spectacular position with some really good rock. Good pro and clean falls (trust me, I took them a lot) are in abundance. I'm curious as to what the grade will settle out at. I'm calling it 12a. I'm not sure if any one move is really that hard, and I don't think any one pitch is really that grade, but the experienc... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Jungle Wall : Grease Monkey (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: What is an acceptable bouldering grade for an all points off dyno? V4 at least? HARD for 11b.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Hurricane Wall : 1000 Hurricanes (5.12b/c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Hard as Hell. I want to see somebody do it in a way that makes it look 12b/c.


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