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Member Since: Apr 14, 2010
Last Visit: Jun 25, 2015
Contact Phil Esra

Point Rank: # 2,201
Total Points: 283
Last Year: 64
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Esra been climbing?










Contributions


All 566 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 183 | Posts 120 | Stars 217 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Pink Wall : Terror in New York (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Really bad rock compared with most of the other routes on this wall!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Phil Esra When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Looks like the beta is to fix a length of knotted rope to your ankle and bite your way up it with your teeth.

That is some impressive hip articulation....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: Phil Esra When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: "May be the best warm up route on the Wall of The '90s" - Ha! This description is such a self-deprecating "quality sandbag." This is a brilliant climb--one of those rare lines whose easiness does not detract from the experience in any way. The only thing that makes it a "warm up" is that the bolts are quite far apart on the easiest sections, sometimes over ledgy terrain.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s
By: Phil Esra When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed here (and CCC) for the first time. Great little crag! What's the deal with the heavy truck traffic? We were here for only an hour or two, in the middle of the day on a Thursday, and the number of trucks seemed to dwindle over that time?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Dihedrus (5.10a/b)
By: Phil Esra When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Spent a day on 3+ star routes from 5.9 to 11d; this was my favorite by far.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab : Catwalk (5.10a)
By: Phil Esra When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: First bolt above the roof is surprisingly far from previous one (out of character with the rest of the route and the rest of the crag), but the climbing is very easy. A fun line, absolutely worth doing, but there are better options if you want gym-like bolt spacing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab
By: Phil Esra When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Note--*you* pass on the right side of Crack of Noon Buttress. The buttress will be on your *left*. Match what you see with the mountainproject pic and you'll do fine.

There's an amazingly clear, rock-bordered foot path from the top corner of the pullout. It is heading southwest as described, though I'd have sworn it was northwest. Somebody put a lot of love into this trail--kudos.

Came here to help a friend fulfill his 35th birthday challenge--35 bolts (not counting anchors) in 35 minutes. The... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Becky Route (5.10a)
By: Phil Esra When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Pretty much exactly the same difficulty as p1 of Supergrinder. I'll call them both 10a.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: +1.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Ugh, why they always set them so REACHY.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Shattered Glass (5.12a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: Doh, sorry, yes, right, not left. I'll edit the original post.

Yeah, Supergrinder p2 2nd bolt is a few inches above a knobby rail/dike extrusion. If you're coming up Supergrinder, the move is sort of left traversing (at least the way I've done it). But you can get to it from directly below if you're coming up Shattered Glass, which is what I did--it felt hard. Before committing to doing it that way on Shattered Glass, I first traversed right, in the vicinity of the 1st bolt on Supergrinder. Tha... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Double Stout (w/ extension) (5.14a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: The only person to send it so far is 5'7"; if you are taller than that, you may really struggle. The roof beta from the FA is here (and is mesmerizing):

youtu.be/n9hoDJEzFq0?t=2m30s


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Eclipsed (5.11d)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Amazing line & position. Heady bolt spacing on the traverse. Distinct crux at 2nd to last bolt of arete. Holds morning sun longer than most west-side walls.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Gala Tumble (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Maybe 35 meters; definitely not 35 feet.

Really, really good. Quite easy if you use hand and foot jams. Still pretty reasonable even carefully eliminating all back-of-hand and top-of-foot contact. A bit more strenuous using only the right lip of the crack and the features to the right. Fun to play around with on TR--so many features to work with!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Supergrinder (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic. It's all pretty easy except for the p2 crux. P1 must have cleaned up nicely--it's about as clean as you could hope for, minus one loose flake that has a lot of chalk on it. Quite easy to avoid that flake.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Shattered Glass (5.12a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: So much good climbing! At 5'6", the move off the anchor was cruxy, but I had almost as much trouble with the final move to the Supergrinder clipping rail. Spent more than an hour on a redpoint--lots of stances for hanging out and nervously contemplating beta, all the way through the crux of Supergrinder! (I assume escaping out [RIGHT] and therefore doing the 10d Supergrinder move to that 2nd Supergrinder bolt, is off route.)

Used 4 shoulder slings on Window Shopper to reduce drag [...]

[EDITED... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Never Believe (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Great line! Much harder and more sustained than Gala Tumble and p2 of Supergrinder.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Planetarium (5.12a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Aha! I didn't know that the original bolts were removed--everything makes way more sense now. My partner and I got on this over the weekend and enjoyed the hell out of it, all the way through. 11c sounds about right for the start. Stick clipped the 2nd bolt, so didn't need the 1st bolt, but appreciated the tight spacing in general. Intended to work on Planet Y but had our hands plenty full just getting to the lower anchor. Kudos.

Felt much harder than Shattered Glass, but a very different style... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Strawberry Jam (5.9)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: The comments are all pretty spot-on. Bad route for breaking into 5.9, I'd guess.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Dissolution Rock : Marital Sin (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Well-defined crux at the lower bolt. On first TR lap I found the crimps painful and the route underwhelming. On second lap, with beta, I didn't have to bear down nearly as hard, and it was really fun. Short, but lots of quality movement packed in. Overall a fun little micro crag--the 5.7 crack and this route together are a good pair for a team of mixed abilities.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Johnny Quest (5.10b)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Fun little route with a short approach with a few sketchy moves...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Season's End (5.11c)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: It's possible my take was a reaction to finding it a lot harder than I expected. But on the exact line I took, the best looking holds kept peeling off in my hand--and on one occasion under my foot. Maybe I was just lost. Felt like a poor man's version of Runaway at Josh.

I really like dnaiscool's chalk trick--hadn't heard of that one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : High Strung (5.9)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: My taller partner fiddled a small nut and a ball nut into the crack to protect the start for me. I avoided touching the higher blocks at all costs, and even doing that the first few moves still felt like the crux to me. Did it with a single #3 and had to run out the top section for a long, long way. At least a single #4 and #5 would be nice to have; a second #3 wouldn't be all that useful.

As of 4/5/15, there was a gross-looking mass of something (looked like ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Watanobe Wall : Watanobe Wall (5.10a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: The right branch felt quite a bit easier than the lower crux to me. 10a seemed like a reasonable grade--the route felt much easier than the 10a crux on Axe of Dog, for example.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : The Oyster Bar : The Oyster Bar (5.11b)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Into the shade at 1ish pm in April. Sharp crimps--wasn't interested in spending my fingertips on this one. Stick clipped *2nd* bolt from boulder.


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