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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face Left Side : Paisano Chimney (5.8)
By: Phil Esra When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beta storm:
I was intimidated by the overhang--didn't look like there was a way to protect it that would keep me off the ledge (lots of slack in the rope because of the blocky traversing to get there). So I went right instead, and paid for it later with an awkward traverse to get to the base of the squeeze--not recommended.
The squeeze looks bad, but the angle of the main formation eases back, making it less strenuous. I think it's more like 10' than 20'. A single new #4 protected it "o... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Roof Area : Delirious (5.11b)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the arete on route? If so, the missing hold isn't important at 5'6". (I found the upper bulge much harder, mostly due to pump.)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Skinheads (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way reachy past the 2nd bolt. Got shut down at 5'6"--couldn't stick the dyno.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Polymastia (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was really fun--surprised it doesn't get more stars on MP. Tricky crux!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not fancy, but the topo on this site worked great.
Don't overshoot the p1 anchor by continuing up 4th class dirt ramp to visible bolts on right.
I placed a smallish cam off the deck on the crux 3rd pitch, but it's otherwise very well bolted, no more pro needed.
p5 mostly only takes tiny cams and small nuts. Place gear where you can get it--it's not plentiful, and it's always small. A few bomber sideways placements for BD #4-5ish nuts. Offset nuts and cams would probably help. (Not... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with most above--feels heady, but not R. Under-appreciated. Maybe not one of the 5 best lines in RR, but definitely top tier. 3.6 stars, not a tenth less than that, that's my final offer.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Yin and Yang (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slightly harder than Rubicon and Heart of Darkness. Pumpier. More fun than Indian Creek, if in a less pretty setting.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tied with Clyde Minaret and Braille Book as my all-time favorite 5.8s.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a)
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't find the "10c 15 feet out from the bolt" on p1 to be particularly scary. The fall doesn't look like it would be that bad. I *was* scared on crappy thin gear before the (high) first bolt. Amazing line, max stars.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10a) : Photo
By: Phil Esra When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the title!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Spencer about approach (though took us more time) and rack. Bring a pile of BD .4 to .5 or orange Metolii. Lots of decent stances for back cleaning if needed--that's what I did. Placed one medium nut total.
Looked all over the top of p4 for something that looked like a "bristler" but could not find it. Maybe it was trundled, or broke off.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Sexy Sadye (5.10d)
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: At 5'6", the moves below the 2nd bolt are 5.10, and falling = decking. Dangerously run out. You might be able to get an offset mastercam or alien to stick in the shallow flare, but you wouldn't wanna fall on it. Fun, improbable slab moves if you're solid at the grade.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Pet or Meat (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun, balancy, thoughtful moves on "medium" quality rock. Safely bolted.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moosedog is posted closed March 8 -- June 14(?) 2013 due to "recent wildlife activity"--presumably raptor nesting.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Direct South Face (5.9)
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moosedog is posted closed March 8 -- June 14(?) 2013 due to "recent wildlife activity"--presumably raptor nesting.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : I Love my Marine (5.5)
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7 at the first bolt, then mostly easier, with an occasional 5.5-5.6 move above.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : I Love my Marine, Direct (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crumbly rock. At least 10d at 5'6".
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Torn Flesh (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but interesting and fun.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : BMX Crags : ... : Circus (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route at the crag. Steep and positive. A bit soft.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks
By: Phil Esra When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: In hindsight, Dan's point #1 above is extremely important (and well explained). If you miss this turn, you will happily continue on a well-traveled, frequently cairned trail that takes you out of your way. Miramontes has a good picture in his bouldering book (probably in his roped climb book too).
Took us 3 hours going in "the long way" with bonus scrambling, and less than 2 hours at a leisurely pace in the dark on the way out.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : Mojave Queen (5.11a)
By: Phil Esra When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70 got us to the ground by tensioning right, uphill. Be careful.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : White Rain (5.11a)
By: Phil Esra When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough climb. 3rd bolt looks old and dodgy.
At the top of the climb, on the left side, is a pile of broken boulders. Just left of this pile, 15-ish feet from the top-out, is the bolted rap anchor for Mojave Queen. A 70m rope barely got me to the ground by tensioning right (uphill), toward the base of White Rain.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Canalizo (5.10c)
By: Phil Esra When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess it's "well protected" at the hardest crux, but you can definitely deck if you fall before the 2nd bolt, and the climbing is not particularly easy at that point. Be careful. Fun slab. New bolts at the top of Gargoyle as of Xmas 2012.
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