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Dreamin' Dawg


Member Since: Apr 27, 2002
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact phil broscovak


Point Rank: # 369
Total Points: 1,465
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 2
87 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has phil broscovak been climbing?










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All (918) | Routes (33) | Areas (11) | Photos (138) | Comments (280) | Posts (407) | Stars (42) | Ratings (7)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison
By: phil broscovak When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: OK, about time now where do I get a copy here in the backwoods of Boulder?????


Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: Great shots Scott keep them comming.
That's Peggy Kuhn in the red shirt next to Pulaski.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Air Conditioner (5.9+)
By: phil broscovak When: Sep 4, 2007

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Comments: The 2nd pitch of Air Conditioner is a full value not to be missed Taylor Canyon crack classic. Also there is a 3rd pitch up and around to the left. It is a wide crack through a roof called Aqua Dog 5.9. This is a great way to finish up any of the Baby Face routes.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Christine's Dream (5.12)
By: phil broscovak When: Aug 26, 2007

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Comments: When I did the FA the rating of 5.12 didn't yet exist. Christine's was noticeably harder than anything else around so after great agonized debate I rated it 5.11++. It took a long time before it got a clean ascent by any one besides me. So, there was no opportunity for consensus on the difficulty. I remember desperately wanting someone to 2nd the route, but it turned back a lot of strong climbers even on TR. Eventually it got repeated, I think by Chris Begue, and some sense of the difficulty sta... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Needs a Bolt (5.9+ PG13)
By: phil broscovak When: Aug 26, 2007

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Comments: Hey Scott after all these years it is good to hear you are still out there. Needs a Bolt and 2 Bolt Wall are different routes. 2 Bolt, Another Fantastic Harmels Funk Fest is farther up river past the 2nd Buttress. 2 Bolt is (imho) more serious than Needs a Bolt even though they are about the same difficulty. Great stuff you have been posting! Let's see those ole time pics!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Jul 24, 2007

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Comments: Except for all the springy things instead of pins it kinda looks like a skimpy rack for climbing in the Black in the old days.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: phil broscovak When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: Sunday July 1st. Azure blue sky, warm temps, no wind! Condition were near perfect for late spring. Except for a few sections up high most all of the snow was ideal for kick stepping. Try to climb in the shadows as the snow will be firmer. Lots of good, moderate, mixed climbing. First constriction is tricky rock for at least 15' then fun mixed. What would be the 3rd rope length was melted out scree and talus. Each of the constrictions offered grin bustin', fun climbing. Occasionally utilizing a f... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Kingpin (5.10 PG13)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 25, 2007

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Comments: In 1976/77 I did this wild route with Stan Mish. I remember it being really stiff but harder mentally than physically. I also remember being glad that Stan led what I considered the run out crux pitch. The "pro" on that face (pre springs and micro gear)was mostly humorous in a not funny kind of way. The only retreat from that lead would have been a screamer. That was a stressful belay but a beautiful lead. Stan had that goofy grin and those nerves of steel. Stan thought we might be doing a 2nd a... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : Monkey and the Engineer (5.10-)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 16, 2007

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Comments: F.A. Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80's.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... (5.10c)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 11, 2007

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Comments: Jello, I was a WSC student from 1975 on and it was our common knowledge that you first climbed this tower which we always called the Lowe Pinnacle. I wrongly thought that you had done it with Mike Weiss so it is good to set the record straight. I had NO idea you led it with only a single drilled anchor for pro. BRRRRurly! Thinking about that made my privates turtle up. Cheers to you and all the wild, wild stuff you climbed including this little tower.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Guanos Dios (5.10d)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 1, 2007

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Comments: If you find yourself climbing up on the Bat Slab and you find yourself saying hmmm, there sure is a lot of bat crap up here, rest assured it's not like it once was. You can thank Jimmy Newberry for trundling the hanging, guano serac that use to be part of the experience. You should of seen the scramble fest out from under the Big Roof when Newberry sent that ton o turd down. Poor belayer had to just sit there and take it of all the guano luck. Hey wait a minute that was me. Merde!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Tony's Tango (5.6)
By: phil broscovak When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: For the grade, Tony's is as good a route as you will likely find. A little bit of everything and good pro to boot. The only bummer is that it isn't 5 pitches long. I would be cautious when recommending Tony's Tango to beginning leaders as there is a bit of "deviousness" to this route as is typical for Harmels. When climbing in Gunnison thinking "outside of the box" is a invaluable skill.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Back for Seconds (5.11)
By: phil broscovak When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: 1st ascent: Chuck Grossman, early '80s. Great climber, great route.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... (5.10c)
By: phil broscovak When: May 16, 2007

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Comments: Thanx Allen for jogging my memory. They were just studs back then weren't they.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... : Little Finger aka Penis Roc... (5.10c)
By: phil broscovak When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: FOUR bolts! 4 BOLTS? What the ph-uck do you mean FOUR BOLTS?
I know its been since the last century that I was there but I do not recall that many BOLTS. What gives Local ethics or my memory?


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: phil broscovak When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: Richard, excellent and accurate post, thanx!

Another issue that impacts this is the policy of awarding State construction projects to the lowest bidder. I doubt it ever actually saves the State money what with the cost of doing it over and over.
I know I would never select a surgeon based on lowest bid. As a selection process it tends to lead to a shoddy "do the least possible to get by" attitude. Anyone who has ever been around construction has heard someone say "leave it alone it's a governm... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Jump Back Jack Crack (5.10c)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: FA Rusty Bailly and the lads.
I first saw that wicked wicked crack in 1976 or 77 and it scared me silly. The landing if you fell without gear was a monstrous cacti. The bolt was drilled on lead during a subsequent effort to lead the evil gash. The story I was told is that it was an epic effort done on lead. The climber had to wedge their body in and frantically hand drill behind their head and shoulder.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 18, 2007

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Comments: This a really fun and satisfying climb. I like that it 'summits' and that it has a lot of nice variation. That said, this is a sand bag rated at 5.7 and if you believe the 1st pitch is 5.5 then I'd like to talk to you about a land deal. I would excercise caution when recomending this 1st pitch to less experienced trad leaders. Now having said that I would still give this climb a bunch of stars and highly recommend it to anyone ready for it. The last pitch up the final head wall though harder and... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: Sometimes I can't believe how lucky I am! I got to have a personal tour of this really cool place by Manny. Now it isn't often that an old crag rat such as myself gets too worked up over new crags but I have to say I was absolutely enchanted by Isolation Canyon. This area will inevitably end up a "destination location". The rock is fantastic beautiful stone. Manny and his friends have worked tirelessly to establish trails and routes of the highest quality. Please respect not only their efforts b... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Green Lantern (5.8)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: I loved this route! Very fun moves on a beautiful slab. The protection is where it should be to feel fully at ease with the climbing but not at all over bolted. You can do it in two pitches or like I did do it in one with a few longer slings to eliminate rope drag at the top. The mid way anchor is really helpfull for rapping with a 60 meter rope.
Someone (hint Manny) should post pics of this joyful gem.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Angel Wing (5.10b/c)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: Just climbed this route and have to say it is stellar! Manny and the gang have established real gems! Great eyes for lines and smartly protected routes. I led the 2nd pitch and found it throughly engaging. Not as steep as the 1st pitch but very thoughtful. The final pitch was also different from the other two but no less entertaining. This climb tops out with a sweet view. Probably going to become an Arizona classic.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d) : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 2, 2007

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Comments: Alan, that is a fab foto! I laughed, I cried, I went and had milk and cookies. Thanx for the post! phil


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Sistine Reality (5.11+ R)
By: phil broscovak When: Jan 10, 2007

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Comments: Why is this posted to the Painted Wall?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Help Me Mr. Wizard (5.11c)
By: phil broscovak When: Jan 2, 2007

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Comments: Stan "the Banditto" Mish did the BURLY FA back in the latter 70s or early 80s.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: phil broscovak When: Jan 1, 2007

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Comments: It was 26 years ago today that the Madman and I finished the first ascent of the Res. I still clearly remember waking up New Years Day on Sherwood Forest to a crystalline frosty blue morning and a sunrise to "live" for. It was magical!
I just exchanged Happy New Year greetings with both Jimmy Newberry and the Madman and I am immensely gratified that all these years later we are all still great friends. And then I realize that compared to wearing dirt for a shirt, LIFE is GOOD! And good friends a... more >>


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