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Member Since: Apr 27, 2002
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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phil broscovak
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Point Rank: # 384
Total Points: 1,615
Last Year: 150
Last 30 Days: 2
104 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has phil broscovak been climbing?










Contributions


All 997 | Routes 33 | Areas 11 | Photos 164 | Page Improvements | Comments 300 | Posts 440 | Stars 42 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Left Hand Crack (5.8)
By: phil broscovak When: Jul 30, 2008

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Comments: Hey Scott Mr MossMan
Bob is an amazing cat. One of the smartest and funniest people I have ever known. Back in the day we considered him a mobile epic maker. He wasn't having fun unless everyone was gripped. I remember one time, in the mid seventies, on an early ice climbing trip to Lake city. He was driving, his 6'5" frame barely wedged into his tiny Datsun, at 70 mph on the icy, snowpacked road between cliff face and frozen lake. Around one corner the speeding car lost its grip and we did a fu... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Jul 4, 2008

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Comments: That and the fact that Crescent Crack is actually the route between Left Hand Crack and Taylor Made.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Outer Limits (5.10+ R)
By: phil broscovak When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: Scott, Three Pin is a fabulous route that I am sure you must have done. It is the prominent, right-facing dihedral about 50 feet right of Christene's Dream and about 100 feet left of Gymnastics.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Cake Walk (5.10- X)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: This is an old Tom Pulaski first ascent. Very bold in the old days. Still is today.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Bronco Billy's (5.7+)
By: phil broscovak When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: Scott you can see they cracks leading up Bronco Billy's in the picture of Guanos Dios. Just above the plant life to the left of the climber. It is at the right hand apex of the bouldering traverse you mentioned. I remember a lot of sketch bouldering sessions under the big roof. Actually it's kind of a blue haze.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: May 14, 2008

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Comments: The upcoming transition from brute force to delicate balance is one of the reasons I really dig this little climb.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : ... : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Particularly in a Whillan's harness.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: This is so cool!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Tom thank you so very much for that wonderful piece of Gunnison climbing history. CHEERS TO YOU!

Do you have any more stories of those days? If you do please post them up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9) : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Very fun variation. Hey Werner are Keith and Carly still in the Ditch?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: I believe that is John Rosholt on lead.
So sorry for his loss.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Double Time at Sue's Place (5.12)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Better than all the scars of shame I possess.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Welcome to China (5.12a)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: The coveted 2nd ascent of this very stiff test piece fell to the remarkable Mike Head of Hueco Tanks fame. He lead it clean, on sight and in one try. Everyone watching was absolutely slack jawed! Then, when at the anchor, Mike asked who wanted to follow and clean it. Everyone turned around and stared at the road. Mike proceeded to down climb and back clean it in better style than his amazing ascent. That was truly something to see.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Welcome to China (5.12a)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 20, 2008

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Comments: Welcome to China is to the LEFT of Double Time and Guanos Dios not to the right.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 10, 2008

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Comments: Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 9, 2008

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Comments: Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Outer Limits (5.10+ R)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: One of the most slack jawed ascents I ever saw was the 1st free ascent of this incredible route.
Scotty was working the "Whiskey Crack-esque" moves in the shallow crack and not finding much in the way of substantial protection. This was in the days of EBs, stoppers and hexes. He was at least 40' above his only good gear (a medium sized stopper) when it started to rain. All of us 'ground crew' saw doom approaching. But Scotty never backed down. He always said things would look better one move hig... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: Welcome back Chris.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 11, 2008

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Comments: Scott, I looked but didn't see any obvious climbers. Got any other pics?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 10, 2008

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Comments: M-earle You were indeed in the desperate and often mistakenly taken 2nd gully. It really does look inviting doesn't it.
Newberry almost died descending the 2nd gully in a freezing storm. He rapped into a frozen pond only to have the ice break. The weight of his over stuffed haul bag took him underwater and held him there. He thrashed desperately till Madman could rap to him and haul him drenched and sputtering back to life. You don't want to get caught in those gullies in a storm.
You need to k... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Journey Through Mirkwood (5.11b/c)
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments: Scott, if you could e-mail me that pic, I could draw in the line and repost it.

JP was lucky, really lucky, that day. If he had not moved when and how he did, it would have been a head shot bullseye. My recollection is that his schnoz was badly mashed and he had to still climb a day and a half more. He was a tough hombre for sure.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments: After more recall, it was actually 2 routes one done twice and one done with a variation. The best route was with Scottie on the eastern flank. I remember 3+ pitches of good climbing to the summit. The crux of which was a steep right facing dihedral that was really stout. It must have been hard, since Scotty took a winger off of it. Scotty always moved so fluidly that I was taken off guard and had too much slack in the system when he pitched. It was a longer fall than necessary. I would probably... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 29, 2008

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Comments: I have done 4 routes on this cool crag. I will try to dredge the memory banks and post up.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Journey Through Mirkwood (5.11b/c)
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 29, 2008

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Comments: Hey Scott can you use a loop on the original and locate them?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka... (5.10+)
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 27, 2008

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Comments: Wow Larry & Karsten this looks like great good adventure. But isn't this route and Lady Wilson's Cleavage on the Cleavage Wall not the Horseshoe Wall?


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