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Dreamin' Dawg


Member Since: Apr 27, 2002
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact phil broscovak


Point Rank: # 369
Total Points: 1,465
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 2
87 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has phil broscovak been climbing?










Contributions


All (918) | Routes (33) | Areas (11) | Photos (138) | Comments (280) | Posts (407) | Stars (42) | Ratings (7)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Black Shadow Arete (5.11a)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 12, 2006

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Comments: Holy Fertilizer! That funky rap anchor of slings and fixed nuts sounds like the nasty anchor I established in the early eighties. Yikes! Chuck Grossman and I were climbing Mirror Wall for the Montrose and Grand Jct. TV cameras. It was a promotional stunt for the "It's A Gas" (Great American Summer campaign). The area wanted to promote the local tourist trade. About a pitch from the top of the real climbing we noticed the crowd on the rim bowling over each other and all the camera gear in an e... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 20, 2006

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Comments: Leo, Good deal.
I Like it! Far superior than wading through cyber space. Now if people start to use it all will be chill. Cheers, philo


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 28, 2006

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Comments: If anyone can put me in contact with Pete deLannoy I would appreciate it. Pete is an old friend from back in the Gunnison Days. I lost track of him years ago but the latest issue of Alpinist has a fabulous article by Pete and it got me thinking it would be fun to rope up again. Either e-mail me through this site or call 303-949-9275 Thanks sincerely Phil Broscovak. Boulder, Co.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon
By: phil broscovak When: Jan 22, 2006

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Comments: To the best of my knowledge, the earliest "modern" climbing in Escalante Canyon was done by Rusty Baylie and partners. The route called Easy Crack was done in the Seventies by Rusty and Jenny Goldberg. I believe they called it Pony Express. The route called Cave Route was put up by Chuck Grossman in the Eighties and he named it Interiors. Chuck really helped in establishing Escalante Canyon. In fact, he put it on the map. In the days before camming units and sticky-rubbered shoes, Chuck would pu... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: phil broscovak When: Dec 12, 2005

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Comments: Birdland is a totally fabulous route! One of my favorite routes in RR. Jorge Urioste took our kids on a nature hike so Julia and I could relax and enjoy the climb. I don't know if my ankle-biting rug rats will ever fully appreciate what an honor it was to be tour guided by a legend, but Julia and I still break into perma-grins thinking about that day. THANK YOU Jorge! The finger crack on the fifth pitch is not to be missed! The belay stance is wild. I can only imagine the sphincter puckering tha... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: phil broscovak When: Nov 30, 2005

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Comments: Ice is a very fragile, transitory medium. It is after all slow moving water. Icicles need to be nurtured often by being left alone till later. Climbing ice too soon is tantamount to the farmer tugging at his shoots to get his crop in sooner. Maybe soon we will see a plethora of indoor ice climbing gyms where all the hackers can dang and hangle. Till then let the ice grow! Remember there is a "special place" in hell for 'cicle sackers.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Billy Shears (5.10d)
By: phil broscovak When: Aug 1, 2005

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Comments: On a historical note... Billy Shears is the name of the mysterious person who is said to have replaced Paul McCartney of the Beatles after Paul supposedly died in a car crash in the seventies.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Kathy's Corner (5.10a R)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: HI Kirk.Yes I believe the first ascent was Kathy Zaiser and myself in the early to mid eighties. Like Marias Farewell, this was a route put up as a going away present.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Journey through Gwondonalan... (5.10-)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: There are indeed two areas of the globe that were once part of the same paleocontinent. One area refered to as Gondwana is related to the current Indian sub continent. The other area known to this day as Gondwona [the New Zealand region is called Gwondona]. No jacked up spelling here. Thanx George for referencing the Red Rocks web link as a clarification.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Forrest - Walker (5.10+ A4 R)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 12, 2005

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Comments: I in no way was dissing the early attempts by Coyne and Levitt they were fantastic efforts (Personally I love and relate to the taxi cab hallucination). Just as I wouldn't discredit the awesome efforts of Coyne and Russell on the free ascent of the Goss-Logan. But I think it is fair to say that Leonard screwed up by forgetting the lead sleeves for the bolts. Just as I think it is fair to say that coming off the rim to establish a route while convenient is still tainting the wall. How many epic e... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Walk of Shame (V-easy X)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 2, 2005

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Comments: I believe I have the 1st winter ascent of the WoS. In the winter of 79 four of us Gunnisoids went down to attempt the 1st winter ascent of the Nose. (This was prehaps the first winter attempt on any major Black Canyon route.) Things went pretty well until we got a runny nose when a 'wall of storm' spanked us and coated everything in ice. So we went down and uh, of course up. Four full pigs of winter wall gear, no fixed ropes and a distinct lack of crampons made for a 'interesting' escape. On a p... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Oh Mama Mama (5.10c)
By: phil broscovak When: May 30, 2005

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Comments: This route could also be linked to the 'Big Roof'.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : Double Time at Sue's Place (5.12)
By: phil broscovak When: May 30, 2005

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Comments: The first ascent required several BIG swings over six days and seven cases of Cooper's Stout. Chuck and I had a bet. Whoever got established over the lip first would get a case of Cooper's from the other. Since we thought it would go any day we always brought the case along for the ride. After the high piece was clipped there was nothing to do but gulp and go for it. One thing led to another and before sun down we would need another case. In retrospect we might have been able to do the1st in fe... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Angles Away (5.9+)
By: phil broscovak When: May 30, 2005

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Comments: The picture of chuck is on the crux of the 2nd pitch which is significantly harder than the 1st pich.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Gwondonna Land Boogie (5.9+)
By: phil broscovak When: May 18, 2005

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Comments: Note to Larry Hamilton:I was recently surfing around and came across an actual place called Gwondonaland. It is a region at the Fox Glacier in New Zealand. The locals refer to it as having once been attached to India. A different spelling than the Gondwana district of India but obviously related. The New Zealand region has only one N in it's spelling but I don't suppose I could convince the guide book authors to retro print their books for a spelling correction.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: phil broscovak When: May 18, 2005

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Comments: Under 9 hours! ....Barring the use of R2-D2 jet packs that is FAST, mindblowingly fast! All kudos and congrats to these uber dudes. This remarkable news inspired me to jump up out of the rocking chair (of course that may have been due to the spastic sphincter seisure syndrome that I experienced while reading about their speed ascent) and wonder if I could break my own ...speed of 132 hrs, Nah, not likely. All my juvenile juice has turned to geriatric jelly I'd surely be slower. Your record is s... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: phil broscovak When: May 1, 2005

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Comments: To quote the 'thought of the day' in the Colorado Daily 5/1/05 "America is a country that doesn't know where it is going but is determined to get a speed record getting there." -Laurence J. Peter

As an old fart tradie I always thought that climbing fast was for safety in the mountains not competition glory. Style in climbing is a personal choice not a dictate. Cheers!philo


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 30, 2005

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Comments: 23 hours 39 minutes or 48 hours 27 minutes, who cares it is still a great route. It is not the Olympics. No one is going to give them a medal for breaking the four minute mile. And even if they get featured in the crag rags they will still be eating tuna out of the can with a piton in the back of a VWee micro van. Even if they fixed the first five pitches just climbing the beauty of a beast in any thing close to 24 hours it is amazing. If you want to go faster go for it. Joe Callahan and I did o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 11, 2005

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Comments: No bogousity here Ant. Good topo. I will attest to the 2nd pitch (left hand variation) being 5.12ish.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Wish Bone (5.9 R)
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 14, 2005

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Comments: I am not sure how the program elected to give this a vs rating, probably because I made mention of the less than ideal protection. I would not consider this route vs. Maybe s (with a small s). But I would consider it harder than the 5.8 the guide gives it. In fact I think it is much harder and more serious than Arrow Place but there is NO reason to get hurt on this route. On a side note I got a camming unit stuck in the back of the bomb bay slot right below the belay station. You can have it if ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 14, 2005

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Comments: A really pleasant route. The start looks intimidating but goes really well. I found two bomber small wired nuts that had me feeling fairly secure through the opening moves. After the first body length you get a good stance and can readily place solid pro. The rest of the climb is well protected and very enjoyable.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 9, 2005

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Comments: Tracy- Never mind about the ACs, they only like to compensate for certain personal inadequacies by making snippy arogant comments fom the safety of anonymity. A 'V-thread' is a very useful technique for an ice climber to know (and know well). It will make a secure placement in dodgy ice and will allow a rappel without leaving expensive gear like screws behind. Essentially it is nothing more than two intersecting holes created by boring ice screws at a V angle toward each other. After the screws ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : MysterZ (5.7)
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 9, 2005

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Comments: Larry- Wow I am really honored that you went and did ths little climb. Nice pictures. Looks like a great day! I am glad you liked it. Jimmy and I thought it was a very pleasant adventure. I think it would be a logical link-up route for the Brownstone wall climbs. Well take care and keep climbing. philo ps: Your book is really awesome!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument
By: phil broscovak When: Nov 25, 2004

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Comments: I am in total agreement with Brent on this one! Think of WHEN this was done an give the ole' boy the respect he deserves. Thankfully climbing evolves. Apparently, closed minded arrogance is eternal...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: phil broscovak When: Nov 25, 2004

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Comments: I would like to ask if anyone knows what happened to (who took) the original summit registers of Castleton and many other desert towers?????


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