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Dreamin' Dawg


Member Since: Apr 27, 2002
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact phil broscovak


Point Rank: # 371
Total Points: 1,584
Last Year: 153
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has phil broscovak been climbing?










Contributions


All 972 | Routes 33 | Areas 11 | Photos 159 | Page Improvements | Comments 294 | Posts 426 | Stars 42 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: Ken
Your arguments reek of the same double speak that the republicans use to justify their illegal activities. Take your own advice and chill out. If you think people have to have an impressive resume to have a right to be critical of Dean go ahead and ask about me.
No one is trying to send Dean down in flames. They are just very unhappy with the potential ramifications of his (ILLEGAL) indiscretion. T H A N K S D E A N ! ! !


Location: CO : Tonya Riggs summits the big...
By: phil broscovak When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: Congratulations and kudos, Tonya!


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: Bob you are very correct. I know that this arch was ascended in absolutely pure style, ie; no ropes, no chalk, no press, in the mid seventies. The perpetrator, my best friend, later died in an avalanche in Canada. Dean's Statement that NO ONE reveres rock as much as he does is utterly arrogant self serving BS!
Om mani pahdme hooey!


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 16, 2006

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Comments: Here is my response to the bulk email Patagonia sent me regarding DP on DR.

With all due respect you are totally WRONG! Dean scrambled through a loop hole in the NPS legalese. The NPS will be sure to clarify the language in the future. How does NO CLIMBING sound? Clear, concise, to the point and unmistakable. What about the use of white chalk? Is there any vagary in their wording on that issue? AND what about the use of a rope for descent? doesn't the use of a rope put this selfish act into the... more >>


Location: CO : Everest Ascent - Mark Ingal...
By: phil broscovak When: May 15, 2006

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Comments: Now that is an awesome ascent! Having had a prosthetic knee for fifteen years I am fairly sensitive to the struggles of disabilities.
Mark Ingall's ascent is a heroic accomplishment! Bravo!


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 15, 2006

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Comments: Submitted By: John McNamee on Mar 3, 2006

Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed free-climbed the 4000 foot route Linea di Eleganza on Fitz Roy at 5.12+, onsighting the second ascent of the Patagonian route in a single, team-free push.

Starting up at 11 a.m. and climbing through the night, they reached the summit of Fitz Roy at 3 p.m. the following day. See climbing magazine's hot flashes for details.



NOW THAT IS INSPIRATIONAL CLIMBING TO STAND IN AWE OF.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: Here is a scenario. A herd of tuoronasaurus photographicus are milling around the base of delicate arch on a typical Arches scorcher. From the crowd emerges a wild haired youth. He is on summer vacation with his parents. He is wearing his Dean Potter chinos and Dean Potter polo shirt. He sports an empty but oh so fashionable Dean Potter chalk bag. The chalk bag is empty as new Park Service regulations require leaving all nail clippers, climbing paraphenallia and "chalk" at check point Potter be... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 13, 2006

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Comments: Brian,
That is absurd! Ed Abbey would be appalled as this act will only mean more draconian rules and regulations for all of us! The whole Hayduke M.O. was to NOT be seen or caught. They weren't flying a big banner with their names on it off of the house boats. And they weren't filming a promotional video of their exploits in monkey wrenching. I don't have a problem with an independent will, free spirit, or bandito approach. And I don't have a real problem with a delicate ascent. I can assure yo... more >>


Location: Hard route free-climbed on ...
By: phil broscovak When: May 11, 2006

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Comments: Now that is real climbing!
But compared to Damn Pooters' high ball of the Delicate Farce where do you think the press coverage will fall?
Hats off to Tommy, Topher and Eric for reminding the crash pad crazed proletariat what inspired ascent is really about.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: phil broscovak When: May 9, 2006

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Comments: I always wanted to climb the Washington Monument and the White House. Do you think they will mind? After all I am an American and can climb where and when I want to, right? While I am at it I think I will whip up a bald eagle egg omelet. I can cook it on the JFK eternal flame.
A spiritual adventure my ass. This was a photo-op and a shameless act of self agrandizment! Dean, you are a great climber why do you have to blow your load for 45 feet of bullshit? Would you still have done it if NO ONE wa... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress
By: phil broscovak When: May 7, 2006

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Comments: When driving towards the 2nd buttress your eye will be drawn to the huge roof and prominent leftward leaning corner system. Directly below these features is the Sugar Cube an obvious and well named boulder on the crag side of the road. Parking will be apparent. The leftward leaning corner is Angles Away. Directly through the huge roof is the incipient cracks of Roofer Madness. This is an old Rosholt aid climbing test piece. Beginning from the right side of the Angles Away start and S curving a... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Tourist Attraction (5.5)
By: phil broscovak When: May 7, 2006

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Comments: Tourist Attraction is a fun little route with a little bit of everything. A veritable smorgasboard of techniques. This route is a great beginners climb. Either as an easy to set up top rope or an early, perhaps even 1st, trad lead. Good stances between harder sections gives the climber time to contemplate the future. Excellent pro can be found all over this little gem. After the short right facing corner near the top follow the easy cracks that trend back right and up to the sundeck. While you a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 22, 2006

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Comments: The name "Resolution ArÍte" did not come up because Geoff "resolved" to go back to it after his first attempt with Newberry cashed out. Though that was a motivating factor to be sure, the way it really went was like this...
The first day of the climb ended with us rapping to Sherwood Forest and collecting cactus stalks for a New Years Eve fire side bivouac. In the morning after ascending our fixed lines the first substantial pitch of climbing was a delicate face traverse left and up into a grav... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 16, 2006

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Comments: Hello Gigette,
I would agree that both pitch 4 and pitch 5 involve significant movement to the right. Of the two, pitch 4 traverses the furthest right. If you were to drop plumb bobs from the start and end points of pitch 4 it would easily be 25 feet or more. I have led that pitch twice and have found sufficient good gear to feel fairly at ease. It is an up and over route and gear finding adventure. Yes there are spans of no pro but by tying together discontinuous cracks with tricams, wired stop... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Black Shadow Arete (5.11a)
By: phil broscovak When: Apr 12, 2006

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Comments: Holy Fertilizer! That funky rap anchor of slings and fixed nuts sounds like the nasty anchor I established in the early eighties. Yikes! Chuck Grossman and I were climbing Mirror Wall for the Montrose and Grand Jct. TV cameras. It was a promotional stunt for the "It's A Gas" (Great American Summer campaign). The area wanted to promote the local tourist trade. About a pitch from the top of the real climbing we noticed the crowd on the rim bowling over each other and all the camera gear in an e... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: phil broscovak When: Mar 20, 2006

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Comments: Leo, Good deal.
I Like it! Far superior than wading through cyber space. Now if people start to use it all will be chill. Cheers, philo


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock
By: phil broscovak When: Feb 28, 2006

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Comments: If anyone can put me in contact with Pete deLannoy I would appreciate it. Pete is an old friend from back in the Gunnison Days. I lost track of him years ago but the latest issue of Alpinist has a fabulous article by Pete and it got me thinking it would be fun to rope up again. Either e-mail me through this site or call 303-949-9275 Thanks sincerely Phil Broscovak. Boulder, Co.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon
By: phil broscovak When: Jan 22, 2006

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Comments: To the best of my knowledge, the earliest "modern" climbing in Escalante Canyon was done by Rusty Baylie and partners. The route called Easy Crack was done in the Seventies by Rusty and Jenny Goldberg. I believe they called it Pony Express. The route called Cave Route was put up by Chuck Grossman in the Eighties and he named it Interiors. Chuck really helped in establishing Escalante Canyon. In fact, he put it on the map. In the days before camming units and sticky-rubbered shoes, Chuck would pu... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: phil broscovak When: Dec 12, 2005

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Comments: Birdland is a totally fabulous route! One of my favorite routes in RR. Jorge Urioste took our kids on a nature hike so Julia and I could relax and enjoy the climb. I don't know if my ankle-biting rug rats will ever fully appreciate what an honor it was to be tour guided by a legend, but Julia and I still break into perma-grins thinking about that day. THANK YOU Jorge! The finger crack on the fifth pitch is not to be missed! The belay stance is wild. I can only imagine the sphincter puckering tha... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: phil broscovak When: Nov 30, 2005

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Comments: Ice is a very fragile, transitory medium. It is after all slow moving water. Icicles need to be nurtured often by being left alone till later. Climbing ice too soon is tantamount to the farmer tugging at his shoots to get his crop in sooner. Maybe soon we will see a plethora of indoor ice climbing gyms where all the hackers can dang and hangle. Till then let the ice grow! Remember there is a "special place" in hell for 'cicle sackers.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Billy Shears (5.10d)
By: phil broscovak When: Aug 1, 2005

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Comments: On a historical note... Billy Shears is the name of the mysterious person who is said to have replaced Paul McCartney of the Beatles after Paul supposedly died in a car crash in the seventies.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Kathy's Corner (5.10a R)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: HI Kirk. Yes, I believe the first ascent was Kathy Zaiser and myself in the early to mid-eighties. Like Maria's Farewell, this was a route put up as a going away present.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Journey through Gwondonalan... (5.10-)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: There are indeed two areas of the globe that were once part of the same paleocontinent. One area refered to as Gondwana is related to the current Indian sub continent. The other area known to this day as Gondwona [the New Zealand region is called Gwondona]. No jacked up spelling here. Thanx George for referencing the Red Rocks web link as a clarification.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Forrest-Walker (5.10+ A4 R)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 12, 2005

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Comments: I in no way was dissing the early attempts by Coyne and Levitt they were fantastic efforts (Personally I love and relate to the taxi cab hallucination). Just as I wouldn't discredit the awesome efforts of Coyne and Russell on the free ascent of the Goss-Logan. But I think it is fair to say that Leonard screwed up by forgetting the lead sleeves for the bolts. Just as I think it is fair to say that coming off the rim to establish a route while convenient is still tainting the wall. How many epic e... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Walk of Shame (V-easy X)
By: phil broscovak When: Jun 2, 2005

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Comments: I believe I have the 1st winter ascent of the WoS. In the winter of 79 four of us Gunnisoids went down to attempt the 1st winter ascent of the Nose. (This was prehaps the first winter attempt on any major Black Canyon route.) Things went pretty well until we got a runny nose when a 'wall of storm' spanked us and coated everything in ice. So we went down and uh, of course up. Four full pigs of winter wall gear, no fixed ropes and a distinct lack of crampons made for a 'interesting' escape. On a p... more >>


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