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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: phatline When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fingers at the start were the crux for me, but had good rests. The hands section was cruiser but certainly sustained.
We took the next pitch all the way to the top with 60m, and I thought this was way better climbing than Meadows finish (steeper, more exposed, and more solid).
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Roach Addition (5.7)
By: phatline When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree this is bottom of the barrel face climbing at the tower, BUT:
1. It's moderate and thus accessible to more climbers
2. It's got a GREAT, airy, full-view belay at the top
3. Rappel that can be done with one 60m rope to the ramps
The view was probably one of the widest I got at the Tower (besides the top!).
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : McCarthy's North Face (5.11a)
By: phatline When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We just did the first pitch (a real rope-stretcher!) to the belay under the roof. I would love to come back and do the 11a above, but I still highly recommend the first pitch as a mellow and entertaining 5.8 finger/stem adventure. Especially appreciated the grassy patches between perfectly clean finger locks, and the view.
The belay was kind of painful (it's not so much a ledge as a steep ramp) so take your time setting up a comfortable belay.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Patent Pending (5.8+)
By: phatline When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We must have missed the OW section; I do recall there being a tree inside a wide crack just before the top-out, but I did some lieback/face climbing outside the crack. We didn't place anything in that crack and it did not feel runout to me. I'm giving this two stars not because it sucks, but because there are so many stellar routes nearby, including two that access the Teacher's Lounge... Broken Tree and New Wave are definitely better routes, so if you can climb 10a you should do one o... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: phatline When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Dr. Evil that it feels easy for the grade--because of the varied moves (face, finger, hand) and plenty of rests. But there are definitely a couple of hard moves. I saw someone take a terrible fall from the rest above the bolt (15' above?); according to people on the ground he fell all the way to his belayer on the slabs. So, an "easy" Tower 5.10a, but still come prepared to climb 5.10a.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogwild : It's Better with Bacon (5.8)
By: phatline When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.8 roof feels contrived; in fact, when leading I didn't see the bolt and chose the easier variation 5' to the right (with solid pro, even!) that avoids the 5.8 altogether. After bringing up my second I lowered down so I could do the roof--it was fun but not remarkably so.
I am not as sour about the last pitch as most seem to be--it is a little dirty, but probably only because no one does it. I like P1 best.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : East Face : Scheister (5.7)
By: phatline When: Mar 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wish I extended my #4 before the crux, because the chimney narrows so much that I had to leave the crack--ended up inverting the cam from the outward tugs.
Also I recommend doing the tunnel-through finish as indicated here, or if you go right (as I did), be mindful of rope drag
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