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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: pfwein When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chip, my description was from an old timer, and it is a high quality problem as I describe it (I have done it, although not today). It's interesting that your guide doesn't seem to have the problem I describe: maybe I'm just not reading your guide right. I'd like to know the correct name, as it's a great problem, IMHO.
Peter W
Edit: What I describe is the same as "True Consideration" on Chip Phillips' website, except that you don't match on the "crimp rail," you go directly to it with your l... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: pfwein When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone should add Reverse Consideration: I'll try to do that when I take a camera there. Basically you go up to the first ledge with your left hand, and then directly to the "left trending rail" with your right hand. You don't use what is described as the bad crimp. Getting your feet arranged properly is important.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall
By: pfwein When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We had the area to ourselves on a perfect Oct. weekend. The route Scenic Line (in Bloom's guide) was worth doing (it's a right-to-left dihedral substantially to the right of the listed climbs that takes mostly #1 Camalots opening to #2s)--I would add it but don't have pics.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Overhanging Hand Traverse (V1)
By: pfwein When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Read the above comment: sorry, but at least relative to the other routes nearby, this is just V1. You can give it a + if you're using pluses. V2 would be Crystal Mantel on Pebble Boulder, which is definitely harder. Check out the V3s on Red Wall for sample of that grade.
These are stiff ratings compared to some other places, but maybe inline with others (J Tree). What can you say--V scale is whacked like others, and hard to compare across areas.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Phil, it's a little hard to know exactly where each of us is talking about (I don't recall a "jug" near the top, but what's a jug can be a matter of opinion). We probably placed a #2 Camalot in the same place and then went to the top, which didn't seem particularly run out. I think a small (thin fingers or something) piece could have been placed above the #2 Camalot, but it was hard (for me) climbing there and going up seemed the best strategy. Maybe the take away is a that it wou... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all due respect for the tips for thin gear, I put in a #2 and #3 Camalot near the top, through what seemed to be the crux. I put in some thin gear below but not in what I thought was "the business," i.e., right below the top.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Hot Licks (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used #5 Camalot (old style) then #1 RP on right wall (not totally bomber but seemed worth placing) above that before placing the good gear that comes after the OW crux on P3; nice juxtaposition of gear sizes. I wore shorts-don't do that!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Milton Boulder : Milton (V4)
By: pfwein When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20).
Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate.
My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot u... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Peanuts (5.9+)
By: pfwein When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with comment above that pro is good, and so I don't think leaders should be scared off by the description that this isn't a good climb to "press your limit" or whatever. If you bring a good selection of small cams in particular, you can double them up and most of climb would be easily aidable on bomber pieces, and few moves that are not (end of traverse) are just past bomber gear (I placed yellow Mastercam in horizontal crack after the "pod"). I always hesitate to weigh in as I'd feel ... more >>
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Location: CO : New Boulder Canyon Guideboo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't the author remove all of the content that he posted on MP? If so, why is this site being used to promote his book?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear beta: maybe bring 3 each #2 and #3 Camalots (and double set below, or what the hell, bring trips of all) to protect long pitch well; blue Metolius was great at the top crux. We exited nicely by going right to 5.9+ crack, then traverse right beneath roof to steep finish, which is kind of strenuous but protects well. Great route.
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Brian,
Glad we're on the same page on this one--when I'm not hitting you with a stuck rope, we've got something in common. Interesting comments about St. Peter's Basilica. I'm not Catholic but had the good fortune to be in Rome last year and went to St. Peter's (and Vatican museum)--it is an incredible place and well worth visiting for anyone regardless of his/her religious beliefs.
I'm not sure whether Eli is an idiot or just an unusual guy who sees the world in a unique way. Or maybe th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Distant Dancer Pinnacle : Photo
By: pfwein When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When shorts were shorter and chalk bags were bigger.
Super cool photo, thanks for posting.
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eli, so that I may reduce my ignorance (not per se, just what I write), can you or anyone else reading this tell me what great climbing there is anywhere near what you call "the Lodge" that is at all comparable in quality/style to that at "the Lodge." (Granted--you didn't actually say that such climbing exists, but I think it's a fair implication.)
No sarcasm intended--this is a serious question and I'm not familiar with any trad climbing that is at all comparable to the quality/sytle of the "t... more >>
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joel, interesting that you tell other people to "have respect," yet you mock my name because it rhymes with "whine" and call me (and other posters) ignorant.
But OK, if you want to label "hikers within the inside of the tower trail loop" as a separate group (just what hiking trails are in there?), fine, you got me, and I stand corrected.
I agree with you that climbers should "be happy that a mandatory closure to climbing isn't on the table." In particular, we should be happy to live in a countr... more >>
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting that no other user group is asked not to do whatever they want to do there in June.
Seems to me that the June closure (intended to be mandatory) was the work of a few blowhards who have since moved on to other things, and is now being perversely propagated by "bleeding heart" types who think they are making the world a better place, promoting racial/ethnic harmony, or who knows what else. Go to an Indian reservation and rethink that; I don't think climbers on DT in June is... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Klondike (5.10a R)
By: pfwein When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I hesitate to sandbag anyone on pro, I've led this twice and don't think it warrants anything like an R. I used double ropes both times, which were very useful. Only thing that seemed maybe dicey was getting to first bolt--I put a #2 Camalot in crack to the left of the bolt (as well as pro directly below). It's not a gym climb but I didn't at all have the feeling that falling was not an option on the climb, and I think the difficult moves were very well protected (and could be easi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Sirens of Titan (5.9)
By: pfwein When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you sprint it, feels pretty easy for grade, if you go slow, you may get torched.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Overhang : Pratt's Mantle (V2+)
By: pfwein When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a rather different feel (and harder) if you do it "pure" mantel style compared to reaching up with right hand to the higher, rounded hold while working a semi-mantel with left hand. Good either way (and if doing pure mantel, can use either arm).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: pfwein When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For anyone who reads this and is thinking of doing the route b/c you like face climbing at the POD grade and aren't looking to prove your wo/manliness, go for it and I don't think you will be disappointed. And I have to think I'm not the only person who will find a straight shot up 600-700' of clean face with no ledges to be at least a little bit exciting.
By the way, the bolts are not particularly close together (maybe a few exceptions) by modern sport climbing standards and good luck aiding t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo...
By: pfwein When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, no one there (besides me/partner) on a lovely 50 degree (in Boulder, sunny, low wind) late fall Saturday. I guess crowds come and go.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : Waves on the Beach (5.11a)
By: pfwein When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow that's quite a downgrade. I was very "tired" when I did it (on a top rope) and thought it was easy for 11a, but 10a doesn't quite right either. Felt a couple notches harder that the 10c (Waves of Rays), so maybe WOR is 5.9? That's possible. Anyway, these routes are OK, nothing special and not worth the hike from a pure climbing perspective, but possibly worthwhile for the scenery.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Deserted Cities of the Hear... (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone added a fixed nut to the anchor to back up single bolt: good idea and I hope no one "booties" it or the biners and sling attached to it. We were a bit worried about pulling the ropes because of the trees on the ledge(led as one pitch using double ropes), but they pulled fine. Pull from the south a bit. Good route--not great, but solidly good. Glad the first ascenstionists don't seem to mind the retrobolt job--no way would this be climbed by 99% of climbers w/o the bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: pfwein When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My gear (other than bolts/piton): #1 Camalot before piton, nut after piton (can't remember which one but about size of little purple TCU), and slung horn up high (not necessary but cut down on somewhat spacey (but reasonable) bolts. Not many (or perhaps any!) routes like this in Eldo--a real sport climb (with a small bit of supplemental gear as noted). Lots of fun; I wish there more.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Sidekick (5.11a/b)
By: pfwein When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of good, fun moves; relatively sustained at the grade, whatever that is. Good new school bolt job.
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