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Member Since: May 7, 2006
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,392
Total Points: 84
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All (551) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (49) | Posts (284) | Stars (182) | Ratings (30)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Bidoigt (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: My gear beta: yellow Mastercam (not blue, but I like 'em tight) after first bolt, then #7HB offset (i.e., a medium-sized nut) and 0.75 Camalot for above 2nd bolt. Braver climbers could probably just clip the 2 bolts and be fine (with an attentive belay), but if you're gonna bring gear, the above seemed good to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Warning--climbing beta in post.
So I climbed pretty straight up between bolts 2-4 on P1; my partners went a little left there (where the face is somewhat less steep) and speculate that may be a little easier. I hesitate to add a rating as maybe it feels hard because of no warm up, and slabs can feel hard when you haven't done many recently. But, put me in the "no way is this easier than solid 5.10 camp." Beyond my subjective impression, I've been up there a few times and seen glum-l... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: pfwein When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Doing the chimney / tunnel "pitch" in one pitch seemed like a bad idea due to the way the rope would run--I agree with BruceB's comment.
Some topos I saw gave the tunnel an "R." I'm generally reluctant to say pro is good lest someone rely on that and get injured for whatever reason. But it seemed to me that solid gear was available with no terrifying runouts (no wide gear is necessary--nothing bigger than #3 C4--and it would take huge big bros, if that, to span the chimney/tunnel). To s... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: A few random comments, skip if you don't like info:

Description is good except to combine the first two pitches--that makes no sense to me. May be possible with extra long rope and/or simulclimbing (I think even longer than a 70m, although not sure about that) but only in the same way that almost any pitches can be combined. The "second pitch" (when splitting them up) is long and sustained, and not totally in line with the first.

Gear: an atomic rack would be something full set of nuts (did... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Dos Equis (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: In case this isn't clear from the other comments, let me note that all bolts (to anchor atop P3) are "new" (actually 7 years old as I write this, but that's new enough). Much thanks for the work, see www.safeclimbing.org/areas/colorado/southplatte.htm.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: pfwein When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: The trailhead is about 150 yards west of mile maker 73, and it is marked with cairn.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : South Undercling (V3)
By: pfwein When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps I just have this very wired, but it seems relatively easy for V3 compared to this area (e.g. Red Wall). 4 stars may be high, but it's got diverse moves, direct line, high but not too high. It's good!


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab
By: pfwein When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: Have no idea what the ownership of status of climbing here is, but I got a friendly wave from a sheriff who happened to drive by as I was hiking in with gear.
Whoever smashed the bolts has some real mental problems--other than injuries, one of the saddest things I've seen climbing.
Not a great place to climb on a hot, sunny day.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: pfwein When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Eli H. wrote "Some public opinion polls have ranked climbing 3rd, behind mining and forestry as the most destructive activities on our public lands."

Do you have a link to those polls--I spent a bit of time trying to find them online and couldn't.
I don't have an opinion on the route one way or the other, but my experiences with non-climbing tourists is that they either don't care much one way or the other, or, more commonly, regard it as at least a mildly interesting activity (how do you get t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: About the rating:
Pat Ament, Rossiter, and Levin's guides all give P2 a 9+ (Ament did the FA).
To the extent that any climb actually has a rating, Werk Supp does, and it's 9+, not 9.
If it feels easier than 9+, congratulations, you're climbing well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: pfwein When: Jun 19, 2010

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Comments: Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Sunstar (5.9 R)
By: pfwein When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: I dunno, we did the first 3 pitches, I headed up the fourth about 50 feet or so, didn't like the looks of it above (the gear, not the climbing, which was no problem).
Downclimbed and cleaned my gear, then led out the gulley (exit on the right side), which worked out fine.

Levin gives it a PG, how about at least a PG13? Maybe I just wasn't in the right head space, but I'd say you should be ready for adventure climbing on this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: pfwein When: Nov 22, 2009

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Comments: Chip, my description was from an old timer, and it is a high quality problem as I describe it (I have done it, although not today). It's interesting that your guide doesn't seem to have the problem I describe: maybe I'm just not reading your guide right. I'd like to know the correct name, as it's a great problem, IMHO.
Peter W

Edit: What I describe is the same as "True Consideration" on Chip Phillips' website, except that you don't match on the "crimp rail," you go directly to it with your l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: pfwein When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: Someone should add Reverse Consideration: I'll try to do that when I take a camera there. Basically you go up to the first ledge with your left hand, and then directly to the "left trending rail" with your right hand. You don't use what is described as the bad crimp. Getting your feet arranged properly is important.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall
By: pfwein When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: We had the area to ourselves on a perfect Oct. weekend. The route Scenic Line (in Bloom's guide) was worth doing (it's a right-to-left dihedral substantially to the right of the listed climbs that takes mostly #1 Camalots opening to #2s)--I would add it but don't have pics.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Overhanging Hand Traverse (V1)
By: pfwein When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: Read the above comment: sorry, but at least relative to the other routes nearby, this is just V1. You can give it a + if you're using pluses. V2 would be Crystal Mantel on Pebble Boulder, which is definitely harder. Check out the V3s on Red Wall for sample of that grade.
These are stiff ratings compared to some other places, but maybe inline with others (J Tree). What can you say--V scale is whacked like others, and hard to compare across areas.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 31, 2009

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Comments: Phil, it's a little hard to know exactly where each of us is talking about (I don't recall a "jug" near the top, but what's a jug can be a matter of opinion). We probably placed a #2 Camalot in the same place and then went to the top, which didn't seem particularly run out. I think a small (thin fingers or something) piece could have been placed above the #2 Camalot, but it was hard (for me) climbing there and going up seemed the best strategy. Maybe the take away is a that it wou... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 29, 2009

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Comments: With all due respect for the tips for thin gear, I put in a #2 and #3 Camalot near the top, through what seemed to be the crux. I put in some thin gear below but not in what I thought was "the business," i.e., right below the top.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Hot Licks (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Used #5 Camalot (old style) then #1 RP on right wall (not totally bomber but seemed worth placing) above that before placing the good gear that comes after the OW crux on P3; nice juxtaposition of gear sizes. I wore shorts-don't do that!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Milton (V4)
By: pfwein When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20).
Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate.
My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Peanuts (5.9+)
By: pfwein When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: I agree with comment above that pro is good, and so I don't think leaders should be scared off by the description that this isn't a good climb to "press your limit" or whatever. If you bring a good selection of small cams in particular, you can double them up and most of climb would be easily aidable on bomber pieces, and few moves that are not (end of traverse) are just past bomber gear (I placed yellow Mastercam in horizontal crack after the "pod"). I always hesitate to weigh in as I'd feel ... more >>


Location: CO : New Boulder Canyon Guideboo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: Didn't the author remove all of the content that he posted on MP? If so, why is this site being used to promote his book?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: Gear beta: maybe bring 3 each #2 and #3 Camalots (and double set below, or what the hell, bring trips of all) to protect long pitch well; blue Metolius was great at the top crux. We exited nicely by going right to 5.9+ crack, then traverse right beneath roof to steep finish, which is kind of strenuous but protects well. Great route.


Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: pfwein When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: Hey Brian,
Glad we're on the same page on this one--when I'm not hitting you with a stuck rope, we've got something in common. Interesting comments about St. Peter's Basilica. I'm not Catholic but had the good fortune to be in Rome last year and went to St. Peter's (and Vatican museum)--it is an incredible place and well worth visiting for anyone regardless of his/her religious beliefs.
I'm not sure whether Eli is an idiot or just an unusual guy who sees the world in a unique way. Or maybe th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Distant Dancer Pinnacle : Photo
By: pfwein When: Jun 3, 2009

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Comments: When shorts were shorter and chalk bags were bigger.
Super cool photo, thanks for posting.


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