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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park
By: Peter Dodge When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolting has been small talk with high cliff climbers for several years. No one has really stepped up to make the next move.
Generally, the rock is very chossy and shallow, this makes most people hesitant of the bolts. Two bolts were at high cliff a long time ago, but they have since been removed (also a long time ago) because of the above reason.
I personally think the reserve area would be a perfect place to bolt... but that's just me.
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Brewer's Park : Brewer's Arete (5.13-)
By: Peter Dodge When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you talking about this specific route? If you are... I've only been on it once for about 20 minutes. You most definitely need a rope for this one. Bouldering this would just be absurd from my point of view... Foxx Canyon has lots to offer though for bouldering...
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Little Foxx Canyon : South Little Foxx : The Depression Wall : The Bipolar Traverse (V7)
By: Peter Dodge When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice send adam! I worked on this for awhile and it was awesome! super fun and pumpy at the end...
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Location: MN : Wolf Ridge ELC Area (North ... : Wolf Lake Set / Johnson Lak...
By: Peter Dodge When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard there is some pretty hard bouldering on the south side of Wolf Lake/ North side of the mountain (I forgot the name...). Does anyone have any info on the climbs?
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Location: MN : Duluth Rock (Duluth) : Hartley : Aiden's Great Escape (V3-)
By: Peter Dodge When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone tried the steep face just left this route. It looks like a sketchy landing because a slab comes in from the far left, but it looks like it could go...?
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Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : PWB Arete (5.9)
By: Peter Dodge When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for all the work at the hollow Jay! All the new routes are awesome. As a side note, did you hear about the Vertical Stronghold "reunion" that is going to be held at wheelers the weekend of aug 2,3, and 4 or so?
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Moonlight Ridge
By: Peter Dodge When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is Moonlight Ridge a good place to bring beginners for top-roping if I am comfortable leading the routes?
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : Pavilion Block Bouldering : The Overhang (V5-6)
By: Peter Dodge When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think there can be two separate routes that take you through the roof in the cave. One route goes the three finger pocket after the main ledge (very big deadpoint) and then exits on the left side of the arete on the top-out section. The other goes right to a sharp flake and then works out to the right side of the arete on the top-out section. That may confuse things more, but that is what I got out of it. I put pictures up showing the two ways.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : Pavilion Block Bouldering : Poison Berry (V3-) : Photo
By: Peter Dodge When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route actually works through the other wall of the overhang.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : West Side : D. The Reserve : Dead Tree Amphitheater : All Bite and No Bark (5.11)
By: Peter Dodge When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if you were kidding, but I seriously think that would be a perfect route to bolt. I don't know really anything about bolting, but it seems like the face is very solid. Much more so than the usually chossy other areas of High Cliff. Anybody have some input?
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : West Side : D. The Reserve : Dead Tree Amphitheater : All Bite and No Bark (5.11)
By: Peter Dodge When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route saw two sends today. Mike Taylor and myself. A little bit wet, but an awesome route! I think it will become a classic at High cliff. Very nice flow to the route. We guessed maybe 5.11-/5.11. Not a route to be passed up.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park
By: Peter Dodge When: Feb 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm going to be taking a trip to Custer State Park in the summer. I'm looking for a guide book... any suggestions on which one to get and where to get it? I'm looking for a place with some easy routes because I'm going with the family... Which area has the best "easy" routes? Thanks.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park
By: Peter Dodge When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have made a guide for a lot of the climbing at High Cliff. It isn't anything major, but it will give you a lot of the popular areas and routes. E-mail me if you would like a copy and I will send one to you.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : The Bulge : The Last Final (5.12-)
By: Peter Dodge When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was indeed the last day of finals.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : West Side : D. The Reserve : Dead Tree Amphitheater : All Bite and No Bark (5.11)
By: Peter Dodge When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this route the past weekend. It is a great route. It was SO cold though... which means no send. It was the coldest weather I ever endured climbing--no warmer than 15 degrees. Expect a lot of new routes from this entire wall. It is too bad this area hasn't been found earlier (or has it...). Great routes and very good quality rock.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : West Side : D. The Reserve : Dead Tree Amphitheater : Photo
By: Peter Dodge When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall looks like it has a lot to offer.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : A. Red Bird Statue Area : Plan D (5.11-)
By: Peter Dodge When: Dec 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It all goes back to the first time I climbed the route. It took me four times to do the crux move-the dead point. The move is awesome, none the less, and is a great feeling sticking it. I will also add that the one move is a lot harder than the 11- grade, but because the entire route is so short it is hard to call it anything higher.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig : Schlickery When Wet (5.10a)
By: Peter Dodge When: Sep 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I was there a week ago, the first bolt was loose. Not a big deal though.
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Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Turkish Revenge (5.13a)
By: Peter Dodge When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to see these retro bolted. As of right now with the run outs, sketchy bolts and no top anchors, these routes are way to intimidating for me.
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Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : PWB Arete (5.9)
By: Peter Dodge When: Jun 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where exactly is this route?
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : The Bulge
By: Peter Dodge When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is definitely where High Cliff's next "hard" routes are coming from.
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Location: MN : Ely's Peak (Duluth)
By: Peter Dodge When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm thinking about about going to UM-Duluth for college. What other climbing crags are close to Duluth?...Any information on the school would be great great too. Thanks.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : Pavilion Block Bouldering : The Overhang (V5-6)
By: Peter Dodge When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was working this cave yesterday and I was able to complete the route by detouring right to a flake (white circle in picture). It was harder than the original but not by a lot. I was also able to stick the dead point to the pocket a couple times. I believe the crux of the direct route is not going to be the move to the pocket, but the move after. Good Luck!
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Location: WI : Rib Mountain
By: Peter Dodge When: Mar 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How big is the park, or how much climbing is there?
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Location: WI : Rabbit Rock
By: Peter Dodge When: Mar 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can do some mediocre bouldering on the face that faces the parking lot (The wall in the picture), but some better bouldering is around the corner to the left of this face. Of what I can remember, The wall is pretty tall and pretty sloppy but overall pretty decent if you're stopping by.
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