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Member Since: Sep 20, 2011
Last Visit: Mar 17, 2014
Contact Peter L Scott


Point Rank: # 6,186
Total Points: 48
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Contributions


All (41) | Routes | Areas | Photos (6) | Comments (18) | Posts (4) | Stars (12) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
old bolt and hanger from Soler belay station

old bolt and hanger from Soler belay station

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Soler (5.9-)

Sep 22, 2011

Tom Hanson cartoon from "Close to the Edge, Down by the River" climbers guide to Interstate Park

Tom Hanson cartoon from "Close to the Edge, Down by the River" climbers guide to Interstate Park

MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall...

Sep 20, 2011

climbers guide to Interstate Park i.e. Taylors Falls

climbers guide to Interstate Park i.e. Taylors Falls

MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall...

Sep 20, 2011

FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott

FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott

MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : ... : Urge to Mate (5.10c)

Sep 20, 2011

FA photo showing block at beginning of crack. <br /> <br />Climber: Peter L Scott

FA photo showing block at beginning of crack. Climber: Peter L Scott

MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : ... : Urge to Mate (5.10c)

Sep 20, 2011

FA Swizzlestick Legs 5.11c <br />Climber: Peter L Scott <br />Belayer: Scott Brockmeier

FA Swizzlestick Legs 5.11c Climber: Peter L Scott Belayer: Scott Brockmeier

MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : ... : Swizzlestick Legs (5.11c)

Sep 20, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Echoes Extension (5.13b)
By: Peter L Scott When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: Echos was originally bolted and climbed by Scott Brockmeier circa 1988. I belayed him. Echos extension was bolted by Tom Ramier circa 1997. He and I worked it on TR. Tom got the first TR ascent and named it Happy Happy Joy Joy. Unfortunately neither of us completed the route on lead.

Congrats Travis, a fine lead indeed!

I hope someone has or will do the link-up.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Meat is Murder (5.11c)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: A key hold broke from underneath me on this route in the early 90's. A cube crystal about 3/4" x 3/4" x3/4". It was about 1/2 way up the route. My belayer found the hold. I still have the chalky little sucker and a little scar on my chin.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Urge to Mate (5.10c) : Photo
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: I placed that pin over 20 yrs. ago. It's a med. knife blade. Someone should reset it with a few taps from a hammer.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Swizzlestick Legs (5.11c) : Photo
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: The belayer is Scott Brockmeier. My long time climbing partner. He once held my broken and bloody body for 2 hrs after a 70 ft. ground fall. After the helicopter carried me away he ran down Death Canyon in the Tetons and drove into Jackson to the hospital. They had to fly me to Salt Lake City for more advanced care. He drove to SLC and was by my side for 2 weeks until I was flown home. THAT is a true climbing partner!


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Swizzlestick Legs (5.11c)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the credit and update Kris. The added lyrics are a nice touch. Tom Waits is one of my favorite artist.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 23, 2011

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Comments: This is a fantastic climb! I've done it several times. But if I only had a couple days at the tower I'd skip it. It's a classic Yosemite crack (crack splitting a face). I'd want to climb classic Tower cracks (crack in a dihedral).


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Rocksuckers (5.11d)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: Sorry Dingus. My ego must let the cat out of the bag.

FA Dennis Horning and Peter L Scott circa 1992


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: I first climbed Soler in the early 80's.Having climbed the route 15-20 times I clearly remember the belay station. Also having personal experience with it beyond just clipping it. I'm guessing the climbing rangers name was Chris Holbeck. He's an old friend of mine. In the early 90's he was a ranger at the Tower. Having drilled a number of bolts, he asked me to replace the station. I thought it was a good idea. I made the suggestion of only replacing one bolt,leaving one for nostalgia. If one fel... more >>


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Strip : Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge (5.10a) : Photo
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: Love the hardman swami belt


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Photo
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: One of my favorite Tom Hanson cartoons


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall...
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: Tom Hanson you old cartoonist, how are you?

For those of you who don't know, Tom drew the cartoons for "Close to the Edge, Down by the River a Climbers Guide to Interstate Park" i.e. Taylors Falls.

In 1988 Peter VonGrossmann and I authored and published this fine book. We revised it a few years later.

Times were certainly different then. This was before the rise in popularity of climbing. Smoking cigarettes (and other things), drinking (we usually had a beer in our chalk bag). We had a lot of... more >>


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: From the mid 80's to the 90's my friends and I climbed here A LOT.

Scott Brockmeier and myself cleaned and did the FA of many routes. We have never received credit for these. Not that it's somebody's fault but Dave Pagel was aware of this. Seems he gave Chris Holbeck as reference and some how got the credit. Chris is an old friend of mine and can confirm the only FA he did was Double Breasted Anchor.

Here's a list and credit
-Swizzlestick Legs 5.11c Peter L Scott and Scott Brockmeier
-A Feathe... more >>


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Echoes (5.11c)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : A Feathery Tong (5.10d)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier and Peter L Scott

We did this in two pitches. I lead the 1st short pitch. Scott lead the 2nd pitch. He placed the bolts so it's really his route.

This was intended as a mixed gear route.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : The Fool's Progress (5.12a/b)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Urge to Mate (5.10c) : Photo
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: FA photo showing block at beginning of crack.

Climber: Peter L Scott


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Urge to Mate (5.10c)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: FA Peter Scott circa 1988
Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA

Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer.

I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible .

Glad to see people climbing this route.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Swizzlestick Legs (5.11c)
By: Peter L Scott When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: FA was by Peter L Scott
Not Chris Holbeck(he is a friend of mine and will confirm this)

The name comes from Tom Waits lyrics

Originally there was a minivan size block at the top split by a finger crack. The year after the FA the block parted ways with the cliff. The bolts were hand drilled on rappel. It would be O.K. with me if someone added a bolt towards the top where the block once was.

This was never meant to be a sport route. It was a mixed gear route.
Glad to see someone climbing it.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Climbing on the SHT, Fault Line Ridge?MidwestPeter L ScottSep 22, 2011
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