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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
Contact Peter Franzen


Point Rank: # 108
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
374 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1865 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : Parasol (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 20, 2001

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Comments: That 'static move' might not be so static if you're less than 5'9" or so. Very very good problem though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Original Grapple (V4)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 28, 2001

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Comments: It's nice to have a good spotter ready to catch you on this one. It'd be a nasty tumble to fall down into the hole below the starting holds.

And I agree- the crux is keeping your butt from hitting the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch is fantastic, even though it is definately tough for 5.9 (hey, it'd be solid 5.10 in Dream Canyon:). Don't pull too hard on the flake at the top of P1, it's a bit loose.

As of 9-17-01 it looked like there were two fixed pins for the crux of P2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: Very cool climb. We did a variation to the first pitch, starting a bit farther up along the wall then traversing right to the tree at the top of P1. The hand crack is great, and if you have a lot of time and patience on your hands, there's some sweet booty in the back of it.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Chaos (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2001

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Comments: First off, this route spanked me. The first couple sequences are very tough (5.13 for sure), and they spit me off repeatedly. My one piece of advice for this route is to bring a stick-clip. Unless you are comfortable clipping off of tiny .13 crimps with bad feet it'll be pretty scary.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2001

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Comments: The description above is great, but I have one thing to add: your chances of redpointing this route are much much lower if it is in the sun or if it is exceptionally hot out. The Anarchy wall is in the shade in the morning, and you should take full advantage of that. The slopers down low are well, slopers, so watch out.


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Number Cruncher (V2)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: You're calling this a V2?? Ive seen V5s that are easier than this thing. Maybe its just me, but I think V2 is a sandbagged grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I just got on this route today for the first time, and although I loved every inch of it, it really is tough. I had just climbed Sargasso Sea (another 12a in Dream Canyon), and the first two pitches of Earth Voyage were far more difficult. Make sure you e up on your steep slab technique before throwing yourself at the second and third pitches! :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I'd have to agree with Pat on this one. Although the bottom crux is completely height-dependant (I am 6 and snagged the jug with no problem), the upper slab crux is not as bad if you know the beta. I thought the 12a rating seemed about right for the overall route, although neither crux seemed as hard as 5.12 on its own.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first bolt is by no means "thoughtfully placed," although the rest of the route is very well bolted. I put a small-medium nut in the crack below the first bolt while standing on the large flake at the bottom to protect those moves. They might be a bit sketchy for someone expecting a straight-up 5.9 face climb.


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