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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 108
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
376 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1865 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Pitches 3 and 4 can easily be combined.

We ran into a spot of trouble on the rap off of this today. The wind blew one of our ropes over to the other side of the notch, where it became caught. I won't go into the details of our near-epic getting it out, but the end result was that I had to rap down the West side of the Monkey.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Tip (5.7 C2+)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 24, 2007

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Comments: I hope someone can come in and add a better description of this. Beta on rigging the rappel, how to manage the ropes, a pitch-by-pitch, and some info on how to set up the tyrolean would be very helpful for this fantastic route.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Rebolting info 2005, 2006 K...
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: That's awesome that so much effort is being put in by you guys over there. I haven't been to Thailand yet, but many of my friends rave about climbing in that area and it sounds like it wouldn't be possible without a ton of help. Way to go!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 27, 2006

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Comments: What an outstanding description of this route! Crux after crux after crux... it may be a few more years before I attempt this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2006

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Comments: What an outstanding picture! I can't believe I haven't been there yet.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : The Bypass
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 2, 2006

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Comments: Sounds like a nice little crag. I'll check it out the next time I'm in the Hood River area.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: This is one of the most intimidating climbs anywhere-- moreso than the harder .14s at Smith. It doesn't get a ton of traffic but it's a hell of a line.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Lost Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 29, 2006

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Comments: I wish that problem had been that height when I did it! I think it was another 6ft. higher for me! Darn shifting sands...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Double Trouble (5.10b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Magic Light (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 1, 2006

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Comments: Also worth mentioning is that the West Side of the gorge is almost always in the shade due to its orientation. For climbers seeking a respite from the scorching heat of the main area this is a great place to cool off.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 27, 2006

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Comments: I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra Direct (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 25, 2006

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Comments: This makes for a good secondary warmup as a toprope after climbing Gumby.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : Blackened (5.11d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Reason To Be (5.10d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Good climb but the bolt placements are pretty bad in my opinion. For both the second and third bolts I found stances a few feet below them that would've made much better places to clip from. It's nice and spicy though, which can be fun.

I actually felt that the crux came at the last couple of moves before the jugs at the top, just after clipping the final bolt. All the holds up there seem to be sidepulls making for a couple of delicate smears.

Also, as of Sept. 23rd, 2006 all of the bolts w... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Massive Luxury Overdose (ak... (5.10c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: This is a fun route-- I just did it this morning. Great knob pulling!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 8, 2006

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Comments: Isn't that Lynn Hill?


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : The Garden : The Garden : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 23, 2006

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Comments: I'm not aware of anyone else getting on it. Everyone always laughs when I suggest bringing anything but crashpads to the Garden. ;)

What's the word on other roped climbs down there? The first time I was there I saw a bunch of people with a couple of Hiltis and plenty of rigging gear, obviously out to equip some routes. Anything been cleaned off on the little cliffes just up the road?


Location: Outdoor Retailer Show
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 17, 2006

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Comments: There's some sweet looking new gear in there. The BD ascender, the new Petzl harnesses, and the Metolius offset tri-cams look great.

I'm not a huge fan of where Metolius is going with their nuts though. I have a full set of them from the current generation. The nice thing about having the cable loop over the top of the nut is that it makes the whole thing a bit more versatile; I've slung hangarless bolts with small nuts, and they can even be turned into a quickdraw in a pinch. Oh ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Plastic Monkey (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 11, 2006

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Comments: I got on it last weekend. It's in desperate need of cleaning, but I'll never get on it again. It has a big drilled pocket to set up for the crux, and overall it's just no fun at all. Be as negative as you like. ;)

Call to Greatness is in need of some serious gardening-- it doesn't look like it's been climbed at all this year.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 27, 2006

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Comments: Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 1, 2006

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Comments: Nice shot. I have a lot of memories of mornings that look exactly like that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 4, 2006

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Comments: Great problem, although, for me, the crux came at the very end while topping out rather than on the underclings.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Killer (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: Classic route! I seem to remember a lot of bees and/or hornets on this route when I climbed it a few years ago. I imagine all those big pockets make nice hives.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire
By: Peter Franzen When: May 20, 2006

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Comments: Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.


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