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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
Contact Peter Franzen


Point Rank: # 105
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
364 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1876 | Routes 163 | Areas 88 | Photos 176 | Page Improvements | Comments 191 | Posts 642 | Stars 424 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : French's Dome
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 10, 2007

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Comments: French's just had a ton of work done on the retaining walls and trails. They've really been beefed up, and the whole effort looks awesome. Thanks to anyone out there who put in some hard hours out there!


Location: OR : Area 51
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 20, 2007

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Comments: Seriously? I had no problem asking for directions to it, and there were almost a dozen other people there on Saturday.


Location: CO : Hard Free Routes Repeated i...
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 11, 2007

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Comments: They also both climbed Book of Hate recently!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Scarface (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 1, 2007

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Comments: This route is a bit beyond me but having talked to a few people who have been on it it sounds like the .13d/.14a distinction comes down to whether or not you can milk the no-hands rest. My friend Brian is a bit too short to really lock into it so it feels rather hard for him.

I dunno-- I normally take all grades with a grain of salt and never quibble about minor differences. This one certainly seems to go back and forth a lot though.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Riverside Boulders : Feels Like Grit (V8)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 30, 2007

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Comments: Super cool problem. There's a bit of leavitation involved in the topout, I think.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Pitches 3 and 4 can easily be combined.

We ran into a spot of trouble on the rap off of this today. The wind blew one of our ropes over to the other side of the notch, where it became caught. I won't go into the details of our near-epic getting it out, but the end result was that I had to rap down the West side of the Monkey.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Tip (5.7 C2+)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 24, 2007

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Comments: I hope someone can come in and add a better description of this. Beta on rigging the rappel, how to manage the ropes, a pitch-by-pitch, and some info on how to set up the tyrolean would be very helpful for this fantastic route.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Rebolting info 2005, 2006 K...
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: That's awesome that so much effort is being put in by you guys over there. I haven't been to Thailand yet, but many of my friends rave about climbing in that area and it sounds like it wouldn't be possible without a ton of help. Way to go!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 27, 2006

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Comments: What an outstanding description of this route! Crux after crux after crux... it may be a few more years before I attempt this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2006

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Comments: What an outstanding picture! I can't believe I haven't been there yet.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : The Bypass
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 2, 2006

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Comments: Sounds like a nice little crag. I'll check it out the next time I'm in the Hood River area.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: This is one of the most intimidating climbs anywhere-- moreso than the harder .14s at Smith. It doesn't get a ton of traffic but it's a hell of a line.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Lost Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 29, 2006

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Comments: I wish that problem had been that height when I did it! I think it was another 6ft. higher for me! Darn shifting sands...


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Double Trouble (5.10b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Magic Light (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 1, 2006

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Comments: Also worth mentioning is that the West Side of the gorge is almost always in the shade due to its orientation. For climbers seeking a respite from the scorching heat of the main area this is a great place to cool off.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 27, 2006

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Comments: I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra Direct (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 25, 2006

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Comments: This makes for a good secondary warmup as a toprope after climbing Gumby.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : Blackened (5.11d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Reason To Be (5.10d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Good climb but the bolt placements are pretty bad in my opinion. For both the second and third bolts I found stances a few feet below them that would've made much better places to clip from. It's nice and spicy though, which can be fun.

I actually felt that the crux came at the last couple of moves before the jugs at the top, just after clipping the final bolt. All the holds up there seem to be sidepulls making for a couple of delicate smears.

Also, as of Sept. 23rd, 2006 all of the bolts w... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Massive Luxury Overdose (ak... (5.10c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: This is a fun route-- I just did it this morning. Great knob pulling!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 8, 2006

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Comments: Isn't that Lynn Hill?


Location: OR : The Garden : The Garden : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 23, 2006

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Comments: I'm not aware of anyone else getting on it. Everyone always laughs when I suggest bringing anything but crashpads to the Garden. ;)

What's the word on other roped climbs down there? The first time I was there I saw a bunch of people with a couple of Hiltis and plenty of rigging gear, obviously out to equip some routes. Anything been cleaned off on the little cliffes just up the road?


Location: Outdoor Retailer Show
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 17, 2006

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Comments: There's some sweet looking new gear in there. The BD ascender, the new Petzl harnesses, and the Metolius offset tri-cams look great.

I'm not a huge fan of where Metolius is going with their nuts though. I have a full set of them from the current generation. The nice thing about having the cable loop over the top of the nut is that it makes the whole thing a bit more versatile; I've slung hangarless bolts with small nuts, and they can even be turned into a quickdraw in a pinch. Oh ... more >>


Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Plastic Monkey (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 11, 2006

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Comments: I got on it last weekend. It's in desperate need of cleaning, but I'll never get on it again. It has a big drilled pocket to set up for the crux, and overall it's just no fun at all. Be as negative as you like. ;)

Call to Greatness is in need of some serious gardening-- it doesn't look like it's been climbed at all this year.


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