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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an outstanding description of this route! Crux after crux after crux... it may be a few more years before I attempt this one.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an outstanding picture! I can't believe I haven't been there yet.
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Location: WA : The Bypass
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like a nice little crag. I'll check it out the next time I'm in the Hood River area.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the most intimidating climbs anywhere-- moreso than the harder .14s at Smith. It doesn't get a ton of traffic but it's a hell of a line.
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Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Lost Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish that problem had been that height when I did it! I think it was another 6ft. higher for me! Darn shifting sands...
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Double Trouble (5.10b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Magic Light (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also worth mentioning is that the West Side of the gorge is almost always in the shade due to its orientation. For climbers seeking a respite from the scorching heat of the main area this is a great place to cool off.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra Direct (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This makes for a good secondary warmup as a toprope after climbing Gumby.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : Blackened (5.11d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Reason To Be (5.10d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb but the bolt placements are pretty bad in my opinion. For both the second and third bolts I found stances a few feet below them that would've made much better places to clip from. It's nice and spicy though, which can be fun.
I actually felt that the crux came at the last couple of moves before the jugs at the top, just after clipping the final bolt. All the holds up there seem to be sidepulls making for a couple of delicate smears.
Also, as of Sept. 23rd, 2006 all of the bolts w... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Massive Luxury Overdose (ak... (5.10c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route-- I just did it this morning. Great knob pulling!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't that Lynn Hill?
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Location: OR : The Garden : The Garden : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not aware of anyone else getting on it. Everyone always laughs when I suggest bringing anything but crashpads to the Garden. ;)
What's the word on other roped climbs down there? The first time I was there I saw a bunch of people with a couple of Hiltis and plenty of rigging gear, obviously out to equip some routes. Anything been cleaned off on the little cliffes just up the road?
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Location: Outdoor Retailer Show
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's some sweet looking new gear in there. The BD ascender, the new Petzl harnesses, and the Metolius offset tri-cams look great.
I'm not a huge fan of where Metolius is going with their nuts though. I have a full set of them from the current generation. The nice thing about having the cable loop over the top of the nut is that it makes the whole thing a bit more versatile; I've slung hangarless bolts with small nuts, and they can even be turned into a quickdraw in a pinch. Oh ... more >>
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Plastic Monkey (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on it last weekend. It's in desperate need of cleaning, but I'll never get on it again. It has a big drilled pocket to set up for the crux, and overall it's just no fun at all. Be as negative as you like. ;)
Call to Greatness is in need of some serious gardening-- it doesn't look like it's been climbed at all this year.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot. I have a lot of memories of mornings that look exactly like that.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great problem, although, for me, the crux came at the very end while topping out rather than on the underclings.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Killer (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic route! I seem to remember a lot of bees and/or hornets on this route when I climbed it a few years ago. I imagine all those big pockets make nice hives.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire
By: Peter Franzen When: May 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kristo works for the AF now? I should really try to get back in touch with him...
Cool pic for a great climb.
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Location: WA : Bridge of the Gods Boulders
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put some photos up for the problems that are in here in addition to improving the driving directions. I know the ratings on a bunch of the other problems out there but I have no idea what they're called so I'll hold off on putting them in for now.
I built a few more rock cairns out there today-- one at the corner of the last turnoff to the parking lot and a couple on the trail. There's a lot of poison oak growing out there now!
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Location: WA : Bridge of the Gods Boulders
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm probably heading out there tomorrow. I'll be sure to take some pictures.
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