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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
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Point Rank: # 106
Total Points: 4,021
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1876 | Routes 163 | Areas 88 | Photos 176 | Page Improvements | Comments 191 | Posts 642 | Stars 424 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Monkey Space (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 13, 2008

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Comments: Magnificent route. The exposure is fantastic, and the climbing is a lot of fun.

I took a #0.5 and a #1 for the top of the first 5.11 pitch, and I'd recommend others to do the same. If anything else it prevents a nasty pendulum for the second should they fall after the last bolt.


Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: Scott,
I think that part of the reason that more people aren't outrageously excited by this news is because it's a free-solo. Free-soloing something like the Moonlight Buttress is on an entirely different plane of danger than a cutting-edge sport climb, boulder problem, free route on El Cap, or even a Himalayan ascent.

Very few people can relate to what Alex did, and even fewer have the desire to repeat it. Anybody can try to pull off the ground on The Mandala, anybody can rope up and work the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Get Carter Boulder
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: This might be the best individual boulder in the Buttrmilks. That it has so many varied classic problems that range from V3 to V12 on it is remarkable.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Gleaming the Cube (V8-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: Pulling off the ground on this felt stupidly hard to me and the rest of the people in the cave last week, but it may have been the warm conditions that were shutting us down on it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Pow Pow (V7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: This problem is given V8 in the guidebook, but it isn't quite as hard as some of the other 8s in Bishop.

Some good beta for the opening move(s) if you're short: if you can't reach all the way up for the first left hold on the face from the start hold, try going up right first along the edge of the roof to a small crimp, then set your heel and reach up left.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Saigon (V5-6)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: That jug is sharp as hell.

The topout is a lot of fun too-- the holds are good, but you do gain some altitude up there.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Flyboy SDS (V8-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: I actually found the sit-start to be slightly easier than the standing start, although the ratings should probably stay as-is. The moves are less awkward for the sit start, even if they are slightly more strenuous.

Don't let the V8 rating turn you away if you're looking for a good way to do this problem.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Evilution (V12-13 R)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: Awesome problem. Evilution to the lip is a must-do for anyone climbing in the V10 range.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Get Carter Boulder : Michael Caine (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: A V12 sit-start exists for this problem as well.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Checkerboard Area : Checkerboard (V7-8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: I didn't find this to be as dangerous as many people make it out to be. The first moves are quite easy, and the crux at the end is easily protected by a few pads and a good spotter.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Soul Slinger (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: If you have large hands it may be easier to do a wide pinch with the right hand rather than squeezing the little nubbin on the arete. There is a good thumb-catch and it sets you up well for the next 2 moves.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress : Out of Harm's Way (5.8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 11, 2008

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Comments: This route has some of the best knob pulling at Smith for any grade. Wonderful route. The bottom will be pretty sewn up with a 0.75, 2 #1s, and a #2.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Backbone Ridge (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 3, 2007

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Comments: I'll second that comment. A 12 pitch climb like this really deserves to be fleshed out some more.


Location: CO : Trice Get's A 2nd Ascent Af...
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 19, 2007

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Comments: Way to go Jamie!

I was actually in Boulder for the day on the 13th and gave this a try while playing around on the UCT. There was a lot of fresh chalk on it and people had obviously been working on it recently.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Mountain Home (Leavenworth)... : Mountain Home Road boulders : Star Wars boulders : Darth Maul (V4-5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: Fantastic problem! I found the mantle to be the toughest part by far.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity ArÍtes : Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk : Wussy Boy (5.8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 4, 2007

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Comments: We found the bottom section of this to be a bit awkward, but the top was a lot of fun and made up for it.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Panic Attack (5.11d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: Lots of bolts on this one, so if you're sick of the spacing on other routes this will feel great.

Fun bouldery movement and well protected. I just wish it were longer.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: I did this route this morning. Some thoughts:

We took 2 60m ropes with us and while it made the rappels a bit easier you can definitely get by with just one. Don't rap back down the route-- we heard that some people have been doing this for some reason. Rap off the opposite side that you came up, then find the chains 10m or so to the climber's left of the route and rap down there. There are anchors everywhere on this wall so it's pretty easy to get down.

I was suckered in to going straight... more >>


Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon : Anthony Lakes - Old to be R...
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: I've heard rumors of granite bouldering out in this area. Is that a possibility?


Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: I think it's a good idea to separate out Eastern Oregon into its own area. It's far enough from Portland/I-5 that most people probably aren't familiar with it so putting it all together isn't a bad idea.

I'm not a big fan of placeholders (Blitzo has some on this site that are still blank months after he originally put them in), but as long as you remember to go back and fill them in then go ahead and use them.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : No Substance : No Additives (V11) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: It's worse than it looks-- I'm 6'1" and I have a 6'5" wingspan and I couldn't hit that without my feet coming off. In reality that's a dyno, not a deadpoint like it looks in the picture.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity ArÍtes
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 24, 2007

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Comments: I've heard of this area, and I'd love to check it out in the Fall.

What is the driving time from the Crescent City area? I'm coming from Portland, and I'm having a hard time figuring out if it's better to go through the Redwoods area on the coast and cut over, or to just come straight down I-5 and then go West at Redding. What would you recommend?


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Mountain Home (Leavenworth)...
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 23, 2007

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Comments: Awesome Kelly! I added the book to "Books For this Area" for Washington, and I'll be buying a copy shortly. :)


Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 18, 2007

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Comments: From the "for what it's worth" department...

My girlfriend grew up just a few miles from these cliffs, and according to her it's not uncommon at all for people to get caught by sneaker waves there. Every summer there would be at least one case of someone getting swept out to sea and drowning.


Location: OR : Area 51
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 13, 2007

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Comments: I set up 4 different TRs when I was out there. Sorry if what I posted was misleading.


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