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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
Contact Peter Franzen


Point Rank: # 102
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
362 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1876 | Routes 163 | Areas 88 | Photos 176 | Page Improvments | Comments 191 | Posts 642 | Stars 424 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Right Sign Area : Worst Case Scenario (V9- PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009

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Comments: This is a perfect example of a route where the name really adds something to the experience. Were it not called "Worst Case Scenario" I don't think the gigantic tumble down the hillside would be much of a concern.

As it is though, it's pretty exciting getting your left foot up and out over the void and pushing off of it. The worst-case moves are definitely some of the easiest of the route, and the crux is totally safe.


Location: OR : Rail Road Crag in LO
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009

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Comments: There are definitely "No Trespassing" signs below the cliffs, but I believe that the cliff faces themselves belong to a climber-friendly landowner. I'm talking with him to get the exact details about access here, and I'll post an update when I learn anything.


Location: OR : Portland Buildering : St. Mary's Traverse (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009

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Comments: This actually no longer exists. The entire wall has been torn down due to reconstruction of the parking lot.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009

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Comments: For what it's worth:

The jumpers I that I was with said it was ~370ft from the exit to the ground. There's a great ledge on the west side of the summit to get a good running jump off of.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Lower Hillside : Team Effort (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: I think the stand start is more like V6.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Stained Glass (V10)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 4, 2009

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Comments: Midnight Lightning is a cakewalk compared to this thing.

Great problem, regardless of the FA or grade though.


Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Desperate (V7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 2, 2009

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Comments: Bring your longest arms for this one. That last bit is really f'ing reach-y.


Location: lucasbarth : Landscapes : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: That is a fantastic picture-- I hope you have that framed and up on a wall somewhere.

Well done!


Location: OR : Portland Buildering : Laundrarama (V4) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 11, 2009

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Comments: Nice find!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Rope de Dope Block : Mini Bender (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 4, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Alan. The name has been updated.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Jete (5.8) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: This is how you sell someone on a 5.8 toprope. Fantastic pitcure!


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : South East Corner (5.7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: I found the 1st and 3rd pitches to be enjoyable, but the rest was totally forgettable.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Take a Powder (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: I'd stick clip the first bolt-- the first few moves on the flake are the most insecure. I found the crux to be significantly harder than Latin Lover's, but it's probably easier for those with smaller fingers.

As for the overall rating, I think it's slightly harder than the .12a version of Heinous Cling, making the .12b seem spot-on.


Location: WA : Northeast Corner & Spokane : Spokane Area : Deep Creek : The Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 16, 2008

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Comments: No kidding! Take it easy with the push-ups Curtis!


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : ** Bouldering in Tumwater C... : The Beach : Goicochea Problem (V10)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: Cool problem. Feels more like a 9 to me than a 10.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Watts Totts (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: Thin crux. Save it for a cold day.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : The Outsiders (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: I agree that this route is a bit of a squeeze, but being that it roughly doubles the climbing capacity of this very popular wall I think it's a good addition.

Even so, expect there to be a queue for it on busy days.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Nine Gallon Buckets (5.10c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: I think a comment needs to be made regarding the opening sequence of this route. Yesterday I was once again a witness to a sketchy and scary fall that occurred before the first bolt had been clipped.

The first 15 feet of this climb are fairly serious and poorly protected. Just because you can climb 5.9 does not mean that you will be comfortable getting to the first bolt. A stick-clip is highly recommended if you aren't totally solid and confident. This is bolted like an old-... more >>


Location: OR : Madrone Wall
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2008

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Comments: That's great news Matt. Are any more details available as to how this came about? When is it going to be officially open for climbing?


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Pure Palm (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: I took a nice fall on the 3rd bolt; Andy is right about a nice little gap with a couple of no-turning-back moves before the 4th.

Stellar route!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Upper Gorge
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: Condition update on the approach:

Apparently, nobody goes here any more. After dropping down the gully from the rim we were faced with some hellish bushwhacking through 8ft. tall reeds and underbrush. We were able to fight our way to E-Type Jag, but most routes out here will need some significant brush clearing in order to have a place from which to belay.

Full-length pants and sleeves should be considered essential equipment for this approach, and a machete wouldn't be a bad idea either.

E... more >>


Location: OR : French's Dome : Road Face (5.12a/b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: Pumped out and fell at the 6th bolt on my onsight attempt yesterday. The route was dirty and I found the top uninspiring overall, but the first half was a lot of fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Exasperator (5.10c)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 26, 2008

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Comments: Magnificent route. The crack eats medium sized nuts and is enjoyable throughout. We walked up to it in the evening as the sun was setting on it and enjoyed perfect temps after a hot day.


Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: 4/13/08:

Apparently the temperature is low enough at night that they have shut off the water fountain at the bridge again. Lots of people were running out of water this weekend, so be sure to fill up at the parking lot before heading down.


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