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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Heavenly Path (V1 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the general feeling regarding whether this problem is chipped/manufactured?
I find it extremely unlikely that there is a perfectly spaced ladder of horizontal edges in the black patina (with a light scar above each one) right above the huge jug.
It's a great problem, but more than any other line here I suspect some manufacturing went into it.
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Location: OR : Rocky Butte
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There seems to be a lot of dry tooling going on out at the 'Butte. Some of the faces are scarred pretty badly.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Freakshow (5.14-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great send Ryan!
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Monster (5.11+)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Gift (5.12d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There isn't a hard move on this thing, but it's still a tough redpoint since the smallest holds come at the very top. I give it 12c.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Glitch (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that this was a lot of fun up until the last 10 feet. The end is pretty out of character compared to the rest of the route.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Bouldering : Icicle Creek Bouldering : Forestland Boulders : Busted (V8-9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That last little right-hand undercling is downright brutal. Super fun problem though!
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Location: OR : Trout Creek
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an amazing area, and I want to thank all of the people who have worked on its development.
I was really struck by the rock here-- I came expecting the usual slick-as-ice basalt that we're used to in the Northwest, but I was surprised to see that it has an incredible texture that is reminiscent of the tuff at Smith Rock. Among other things, that tends to make the climbing a bit sportier than some other purely trad areas that you might visit; because of the abrasive texture the... more >>
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gold Rush (5.10-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route.
2 #3s, 5 #2s, and a #1 Camalot will sew it up.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Space Between (5.10+) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toprope photos don't usually do it for me, but this is a fantastic picture.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : The Sandbox : Worm Turns (V11 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: V11 for sure, but I'm not so certain about that PG-13 rating. It's perfectly safe.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me, that was the most exhilarating section of the entire route. Put in a couple of good pieces then punch it 15ft. to the chains.
Great shot!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A quick note for Squamish camping:
Camp sites at the Chief campground are no longer $10 each. It is now $10 per 2 people regardless of how many people are crammed onto one site. This makes camping quite a bit more expensive, and it is no longer advantageous for people to share their sites with others. Kind of a bummer, but I'm sure it's netting the campground quite a bit more money.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I ended up underclinging out around to the right on this section-- it was a nice little preview of the Sail Flake...
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Grand Wall (5.11a A0)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a fantastic route. I lead every pitch, and I agree with pretty much all of the comments here on the route. I nearly took a good whipper while hanging from the chains at the end of The Sword, and I think that Perry's Layback is by far the most strenuous pitch on the route; it can be aided pretty easily, although there are a couple of easier moves that need to be done at the top of the arch. I think that anybody who boulders at V4 or above won't have any problem with the crux on ... more >>
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Location: OR : The Garden
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steven,
There is a new bouldering guide for Carver coming out soon (it's done, and it should be released in the next month or so), but I'm not aware of a guide for all of Oregon's bouldering areas.
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Location: OR
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the heads-up on that Jamie!
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Right Sign Area : Worst Case Scenario (V9- PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a perfect example of a route where the name really adds something to the experience. Were it not called "Worst Case Scenario" I don't think the gigantic tumble down the hillside would be much of a concern.
As it is though, it's pretty exciting getting your left foot up and out over the void and pushing off of it. The worst-case moves are definitely some of the easiest of the route, and the crux is totally safe.
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Location: OR : Rail Road Crag in LO
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are definitely "No Trespassing" signs below the cliffs, but I believe that the cliff faces themselves belong to a climber-friendly landowner. I'm talking with him to get the exact details about access here, and I'll post an update when I learn anything.
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Location: OR : Portland Buildering : St. Mary's Traverse (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This actually no longer exists. The entire wall has been torn down due to reconstruction of the parking lot.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face
By: Peter Franzen When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what it's worth:
The jumpers I that I was with said it was ~370ft from the exit to the ground. There's a great ledge on the west side of the summit to get a good running jump off of.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Lower Hillside : Team Effort (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the stand start is more like V6.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Stained Glass (V10)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Midnight Lightning is a cakewalk compared to this thing.
Great problem, regardless of the FA or grade though.
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Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Desperate (V7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring your longest arms for this one. That last bit is really f'ing reach-y.
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Location: lucasbarth : Landscapes : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a fantastic picture-- I hope you have that framed and up on a wall somewhere.
Well done!
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