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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Guacamole (5.11-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I ripped a good sized plate out of the bottom of this today. I don't think there was any other loose rock in there, but be careful nonetheless.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fall Line (5.12d) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great picture. Did you take this with a true tilt/shift lens?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12- PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route, but I thought it felt hard for the grade. If Davidson's Dihedral is 11+ I don't see how this is just a fraction of a grade harder at 12-.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : The Fortress
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just chiming in here because I'd love to see some organization for this area as well. I was up there yesterday for the first time, and between this site and Squeezing The Lemmon II there was essentially no useful information for The Fortress. We found some cool climbs (a bunch of nice vertical sport climbs at the base of the Right Fortress) but I have no idea what they were.
Putting "dead tree" on a topo is f'ing useless if I can see 15 dead trees from any given place at the base of a wall.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: AKA "The Office" and "The Matt Cave"
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : Sky Valley
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The directions to this crag (or lack thereof-- there's only a misleading map or two) in the Squeezing the Lemon book are terrible. I guess if you're on this page that doesn't really matter, but we tried to follow the book and ended up totally turned around.
The book doesn't mention that you should park at the San Pedro pullout, and it shows the trails leading up from somewhere further up the road.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Space Cowboy (5.9+)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is abysmally bad, and I found virtually nothing redeeming about it. The rock is solid, so I guess that's good.
The movement is terrible, the bolt placements are bad, the protection isn't great, and it's just not fun. I'd avoid it if at all possible.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Surrender Dorothy (5.10+)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the previous comments. Punishing start with wonderful climbing above.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Shalaylay Direct (5.11c)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last bit is cruxy, but unfortunately the rock up there is pretty mungy. It would be a lot more fun if the crux slab moves were on the high-quality grainy granite found elsewhere at PP instead of the baked crusty stuff.
Still a fun route though, with a very cool position.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not a 5.12, but fun all the same.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is nice and shady when the rest of the 2nd pullout is in the sun in the afternoon.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Y Crack (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big bros? It would be a lot easier to just slide a #6 with you for the first 15 feet before leaving it and placing a #5.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Silhouette (5.8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice slab! Pecker Party and Silhouette made for a nice trip to the top.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a lot of fun. I placed a #0.5 a bit above the first bolt, then a #4, a #2, and a few slung chickenheads above that.
The technical crux is up higher, but the most intense move is probably clipping that first bolt.
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Location: OR : Rocky Butte
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the scars are definitely from dry-tooling. It's pretty easy to tell the difference between axe/crampon scars and bullet scars.
And wow-- that statement sure says something about this place, doesn't it!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Sullivan's Canyon
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun place as long as you can ignore the attitude thrown about by the Flagstaff "locals".
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : The Anvil Boulders : Mars Attacks (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bunch of people were calling this problem "Pinch Test" this weekend.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should add that if you're really going to be pulling hard on this route the belayer should wear a helmet.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you like clipping off of holds that flex visibly and crumble under your feet?
Do you enjoy the feeling of knocking on a flake with your hand and feeling it vibrate in your toes?
Do you enjoy drilled-out and comfortized pockets in the only decent rock on an entire route?
Well if so, is this ever the route for you! This is the chossiest rock I have experienced yet at this area. The first 30 feet are actually quite fun, but as soon as the rock changes from red to white it rapidly degrades into ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Patrick-- Yep, it sounds like we were the party in front of you; sorry if we held you up at that belay! We only stayed on the summit for a minute or two due to the wind.
The exposed class 3/4 section was at the very top, after the little downclimb that one would do from the top of the P6 tower. While we were making our way up it I was wondering if we took a wrong turn somewhere, but it did look like more than a few people had thrashed through the same shrubs that we were moving thro... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Desert Devil (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty fun, with consistent difficulty all the way up. It's a shame it has been comfortized and drilled out though.
And thanks to the person who equipped this with nice shiny new chain draws!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Soft Parade (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't see any issue with how this was bolted. It seemed just fine while placing quickdraws on lead which is generally my litmus test.
Fun route, but the no-hands rests take a bit away from it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: V4, and probably the least-classic classic problem around.
Still fun though. :)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Monkey Bar Boulder : Monkey Bar Direct (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is me on MBD. Kinda flailed on the finishing jugs, but I'll still take the send:
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. I did it in late November and we were in the sun all day; we left the Pine Creek lot at around 7am, took an hour and a half each way on the walk in/out, and were back at the car at 4:30pm. It was astonishingly windy at the top of the peak with gusts in the 40mph range, so the walk-off seemed like a better option than rappelling.
A few thoughts:
1. You could do the entire route on a double set of nuts and a bunch of slings & quickdraws. I had a single set of cams up to... more >>
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