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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I am pretty knowledgeable about "bottom-feeders", I can't say I'm familiar with any of the off-width variety.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep.... Good guess.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike,
You are entitled to your opinions, but you do not need to resort to intimidation or vague threats.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "200ft sport crag"?
That's pretty funny Mike ;^)
There's a fair amount of history surrounding this here "sports crag", including the first 5.12 done in Colorado (For Turkeys Only).
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Stiff Little Fingers (5.11c/d)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bogs,
Are you sure? Did you see a hole or a chopped stud. The first bolt on this route has always been pretty high, about 20ft off of the deck - right at the start of the serious climbing. A friend of mine lives up in the Turkey Rock Estates - I'll ask him to run up and check to see if the bolt really is missing.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : South East Face : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Mar 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say it is a pretty good bet that you have never been up there and really don't know what the hell you are talking about.
More useless information cluttering up the database.
(Administrators - I'll flag myself for this, but come on now...)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "I thought the crux boulder problem after the enduro was the shit! way up there pulling an .11c move, not that hard. You can hang on the bolt, which is pretty good actually, and figure out the holds, then lower back down the 10 feet and send it!"
On the FFA, the pro at that spot consisted of a knifeblade driven straight up under a thin flake that Jimmy had placed on the first aid ascent several years previous. It was pretty desparate just getting to the damn thing to clip it. Jimmy worked it ... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : West Pole (5.7+)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wait a minute...I thought West Pole was rated 5.6!
| Seneca Rock Guidebook, Webster & Pleiss, 1975
Submitted By: Pete Gallagher on Feb 20, 2009
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(notes from my 1975 guidebook)
Sorry, old geezer will shut up now......get off my lawn!!!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not only backwards...but also not the Scenic Cruise Wall. That's the Diagonal on the SW face of N. Chasm View - The Scenic Cruise is around the nose on the SE side.
The perils of scanning old slides....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...actually, the name Astro Dog has nothing to do with any of the other "Astro" routes around, but is, in fact, in honor of the poor golden retriver that pancaked at the base of the route a few days before the F.A. Inspiration for the route name came from that poor pooch (fetching a tennis ball - so the story goes) and from the '60s cartoon, the Jetsons.
"Rugh Row George...weeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!"
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It might slow you down a little....
I have to say that not clipping is bad advice here. If your second falls following the pitch, they will swing a pretty good distance to the left, on much more steep and difficult terrain to climb out of.
Big Rock Candy Mountain Slab Climbing Rule #1: DON'T FALL!!!
Rule #2: Always follow Rule #1.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed pretty good when I placed it...........
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...completing the 2nd free ascent (3rd ascent overall) of the route. Allen, I think it was in the Fall of '82.
I'm pretty sure that George Bracksieck took that photo, but I can't find my copy of that issue to confirm it.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The full name of the route is "Ghost Dancer Arete".
F.A. Bob Robertson & Art Wiggins - late 1980s.
Bob replaced some (not all) of the 1/4" bolts and Leeper hangers a few years ago.
The obvious, right-facing corner with two roofs, left of Ghost Dancer Arete, is "The Ripe Stuff" 5.11+ - FA Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy about the same time (late '80s). Very spicy and somewhat run-out.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Tick Dome
By: Pete Gallagher When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete and I did a trad route up one of the main crack systems in the center of the dome in 1980. I really don't remember much about it, other that it was about 5.9 or so. Pete W. probably could provide more info from his climbing diary - which is a hell of a lot more accurate than my fading memory.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face : Carter Classic (5.9) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a better idea...Climb the route to the top, and walk off to the west and down to your pack...Just like Harvey did (and many others who followed)
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Cathedral Park
By: Pete Gallagher When: Jul 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I certainly have to agree with Stewart on this one. As the old saying goes, these crags "look good from afar, but they are far from good".
The domes accross Bison Creek to the south west are not any better. For the most part, you will find shallow flaring grooves that look like cracks from a distance, but are not really appealing when you are trying to climb them. Bob D'Antonio and I did one kind-of OK short route on the dome closest to the road, following a relatively decent hand crack th... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : The Turret : 5.10c/d hands/fist crack, e... (5.10c/d)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. George Allen and Ann Liebolt, 1980
(Colorado College climbers, Class of 1981)
The closest I've come to climbing this route was flying around it in a helicopter during the Hayman Fire. We could easily see the tattered rap slings on the summit, and the pilot wanted to try and land on top of the damn thing...fortunately, he didn't.
I remember George and Ann telling me that this thing was pretty wide - more like offwidth than fist at the crux. I think they may have carried a couple of tubes... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Terryall State Park? Valley...
By: Pete Gallagher When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty useless addition to the database. For one thing, Park County Rd 92 is nowhere near the Tarryall Res. State Wildlife Area, and never intersects US24. CR92 parallels the South Platte River and Elevenmile Reservoir before turning northeast and crossing over the Puma Hills where it intersects CR90 about five miles west of Lake George. The photos included in this area look a lot like the crags on the east side of LaSalle Pass in Thorpe Gulch southwest of Feral Petunia. If you can... more >>
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Location: Allen Hill : personal photos : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Goddammit Allen! Get back in the boat!"
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Ten Years After (5.9) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope...that's definitely not on Turkey Shoot - and certainly not the second pitch, which is perfect, straight-in hands in a right-facing corner.
I can't be certain, but it sure looks a lot like the first pitch of the Ten Years After dihedral on the south side of Sheep's Nose. The slabs below look a lot like the ramp that leads up to Seamus and Ten Years After.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9) : Photo
By: Pete Gallagher When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: See that crack in the shade to the right of Steppenwolf?
It hardly ever gets climbed, but it is an excellent easy 5.9.
Climb it!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Catto and I climbed this in 1985. Niether of us knew that you could tunnel through at the big roof, so we went straight out the imposing roof [same way as Jimmy and Douglas]. It was not nearly as bad as it looks. We found good arm bars and foot stacks [left side in] worked well, and there is a small horizontal crack that provided a useful edge to work with in several spots. We had a couple of tube chocks and a homemade large friend that made the pro reasonable. I felt like the steep "f... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Throne Room (5.10)
By: Pete Gallagher When: Feb 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. by Peter Williams and Keith Schoepflin. Sometime around 1984.
They climbed the desparate O.W./Chimney "the Dungeon" 5.10+ [yeah, right], immediately to the right, on the same trip.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Tijeras Peak
By: Pete Gallagher When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're probably correct about that...
I used to regularly catch the early season ice there in 1980s with Brad Schilling and Lari Floyd. I know they did a pretty sick mixed / thin ice route [early season Oct.] up the center of the east face of Tijeras Peak sometime in '83 or '84. They called it "Tijeras del Sol" - don't know what they rated it, but knowing those two, I think you could rate it PFH. It used to only form occasionally, and is probably now a victim of climate change.
There are some n... more >>
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