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Acadia, on the way back from Great Head


Member Since: Aug 2, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,570
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Pete eye been climbing?










Contributions


All 330 | Routes 4 | Areas 4 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 9 | Stars 210 | Ratings 62

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: Pete eye When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: If you look straight up when on the walk off ledge, there is a fun line. Go through/up and to the left of the black streak to a roof that you top out to easy terrain. It is not named in Gillett guide, but it's identified. It was pretty fun (and a little weird) but clearly doesn't get any traffic, and it is about 5.7 or so terrain I think. Wondering about the history, if anyone knows?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Photo
By: Pete eye When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: This is good beta, thanks. Continuing up Hiatus past walk off ledge, through and up just to the left of the black streak which is clear in this photo (probably the most natural line when finishing p3 if you look straight and up from that point of the climb) is not named in Gillett guide, but it's identified. It was pretty fun but clearly doesn't get any traffic. About 5.7 or so terrain? Wondering about the history if anyone knows.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Lick My Love Pump aka Love ... (5.10b/c)
By: Pete eye When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: First bolt is for anchoring in and wouldn't do a thing to keep a leader off the ledge. Admittedly though, it could keep you and your partner from decking all the way to the ground, 10 feet lower, in the event the leader falls before clipping the true first bolt. A few climbs on this ledge have this low anchor bolt.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : East Ridge (5.8)
By: Pete eye When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: I was apprehensive starting into and over the apex, it is committing, and a fall with to much rope out would not be good. Protection was never tested, but the #6 BD nut, purple and blue TCUs felt bomber. To be clear, you can get the bigger stuff in that others have mentioned up higher, if you can reach. It felt like if I had a few more inches on my reach protection would have been higher, and I would have been more comfortable committing to the move as well. Exciting nonetheless.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Pete eye When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: Loved this finish. The pin is nicely placed (one or two moves off the deck). However, you can get a bomber piece in before you even make a move, only a foot or so lower. I couldn't stop laughing as I started this thing, it just looks way harder than it really is!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall
By: Pete eye When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: Found a pair of La Sportiva red Hightops up here a couple days ago. Let me know if they are yours.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall
By: Pete eye When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: Does anyone know what the bolt line between Gunga Din and E.O. Lieback is called? It starts as for E.O. Lieback, then comes off left on to the face to the 1st bolt. The edges quite a bit more substantial than Gunga Din. It goes at about 10d, great climbing. It's not on the website named above.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : East of Eden (5.9 R)
By: Pete eye When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: As of yesterday the bolt system on this thing is very well protecting. 1st bolt high off ground, but some good clean pro can be placed to be safer.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Pete eye When: Jun 26, 2010

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Comments: What a fun route. Felt 5.6 and well protected (lots of nuts, 0.4-3 cam rack would do for the whole route) through the 1st 4 pitches. Don't go into the last pitch thinking 5.7 though, a section of this pitch is stiffer than that, but protects very well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock- East Face : Finger Food (5.8)
By: Pete eye When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: I'd say 10a. Boulder this thing, it protects well enough with a pad, and looks higher than it "really" is.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Dogleg (5.8)
By: Pete eye When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: bright orange tcu offwidth too. 5.8+ is 5.9, dogleg is killer


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Thomsons Roof (5.9)
By: Pete eye When: Mar 30, 2010

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Comments: sorta funky, but leaning out to plug a solid bd .4 gives some comfort in going for the roof. Taller climbers can even avoid the awkward jam just above the roof and reach above the taper for the finger lock. holds out to the left and just to the right of the crack also make for a number of ways up this thing.

Did the 5.8 2 bolt thing to 2 bolt anchor that locker refers to as well. Quick, fun, and solid climbing. Might as well if your up there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Bittersweet (5.9+)
By: Pete eye When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: Have some holds broken off here? its so thin at the begining...feels harder than Vogels 10a


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Tombstone
By: Pete eye When: Dec 21, 2009

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Comments: Some easier mixed trad/bolt climbs on the west face of this thing. However, Rock quality is for the most part POOR.
A boulder with two slings wit rap rings at top, one 3 years old, the other put up last week. 2 rope rappel.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Planet X Area : Planet X Pinnacle : Planet Y (5.9)
By: Pete eye When: Dec 21, 2009

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Comments: 5.7/8 climbing to the bolt, but the moves to and just over the bolt are 10a. Slightly easier by staying to the left at the bolt/crux(5.9)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Planet X Area : Planet X Pinnacle : Planet X (5.8)
By: Pete eye When: Dec 21, 2009

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Comments: sling the horns for part of your anchor system. bring some cams to use too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : Dos Chi Chis (5.10a)
By: Pete eye When: Nov 26, 2009

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Comments: put your right foot on the left chi chi...and your good


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : Love Gas (5.10a)
By: Pete eye When: Nov 26, 2009

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Comments: climbing quality is classic, but be gentle on the loose plates sections so the climb remains for years to come. Pull down not out.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Varnished Wall
By: Pete eye When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: some good (and bad) slings in the nest to date...bring one yourself if your a skeptic


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Bucket Brigade (5.7)
By: Pete eye When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: Agreed with Kyle...easier to run out the second half of the climb. If you do this however, be sure you have a capable second. It is somewhat of a traverse, and a fall for the second would bring a big swing.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Pete eye When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: I saw this thread, so i did not leave anything in my car that was valuable when i went to the quarries today. Of course though, my car window got smashed in. Not sure if the alarm scared them off, or if they were just smashing windows for fun, but it didn't seem like they stole anything. Some neighbors said it is a reoccurring problem, and often nothing is stolen.

If i was to go again, i would probably want to park on one of the side streets. The nice woman even said she would watch my ca... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Skinny Dip (5.7 R)
By: Pete eye When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: Love the "improbable" tunnel through. Plan on getting stuck...at least for a minute. Bailed on my helmet (just in time for the unprotected chimney) to fit, then somehow got low and stepped through the thing. A must do!


Location: CA : High Desert : Johnson Valley Areas : Ghost Road Area : Mickey's Wall : ... : UKN 5.10b (5.10b)
By: Pete eye When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: used the crack to the bulge(5.9), clipped, then followed the remainder of the 5.10b TR. makes for a fun climb. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Location: CA : High Desert : Johnson Valley Areas : Ghost Road Area : Ghost Rock. : Souix City Soo (You're gonn... (5.9)
By: Pete eye When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: Got a #3 BD in to protect the first moves. If you like, sling the horn just above the bolt for a third piece.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park
By: Pete eye When: Aug 6, 2008

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Comments: "Acadia- A climbers Guide" by Jeff Butterfield very handy.