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Location: WA : Mazama
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crags of Mazama are just 1.5 miles from the General Store (which is a really cool store that has just about everything you could want). There is a new 'climber's parking' area on the right, very easy access trails, and signs pointing the way to all the crags. All of this was done by Outwardbound and makes the cragging here fun and easy. There is also a bathroom and some of the areas have signs with topos of all the routes!!!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : The North Face (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best route I have climbed at Smith!!! It is much longer than full Henious, amazingly exposed, solid rock, and beautiful position.
Small nuts were really useful and a number six metolious is the biggest cam you would need...lots of small cams and stoppers.
Oh yeah, and this route is AMAZING!
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Neptune (5.9+)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw two seperate groups get on Neptune this weekend and it seems to be getting cleaner!
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Mount Stuart and Vicinity : Girth Pillar (5.11c WI2 Steep Snow)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this post could use a little more information???
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Chariots of Fire (5.11c)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route and would be a classic climb if it was cleaner. There are always good stances to place gear (which ranges from #2 [yellow] metolius to #8 [light purple] metolius). There are finger locks, hand jams, and it's steep; you couldn't ask more from a local trad climb! It's a must for anyone who climbs trad.
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Wally Street (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great quality climb and very well protected...Although the clips are hard at times. The 5.8 start is worth climbing too and protects nicely.
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Cherry Cola (5.11d)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was sort of a heady lead at the start...I slung a nut around the old bolt head at the start and got a met. #2 in a small horizontal pocket just below this. The move to the actual first bolt isn't so hard, just committing.
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Smerk (5.11a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry about the lack of information for this route...I got on Notorious a few weeks back and was told it was called Smerk by some other climbers (I didnt have a guide book). Thus the info I posted was wrong and the info posted above is correct.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Lazy Day (5.7)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun for the grade and relatively straight forward. You can traverse at the end to the anchors of Cactus Flower and rap off from there. Safe and in the shade in the late afternoon.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Atom Smasher Boulders : Gumshoe (5.10d)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is hard and thin...but the route is a good overall climb with fun moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great fun. However, if you climb at this grade and are wanting to do it because it is bolted and 5.7+ be aware that the bolts are far apart and the moves are slab moves. Could be a scary lead if you climb 5.9 or below...even if you climb harder. One of the coolest routes though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Cactus Flower (5.11b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fall past the mantle move could be pretty bad. Fun route and thoughtful moves, though I would give it an R rating.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Child's Play (5.10c R)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you lead this, it is an R climb for sure...may be R/X because the gear is not so trust worthy.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Skinny Dip (5.7 R)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this climb should not be attempted if your waist size is larger than 32...May be it was just the way I went about it, but it is a route that can get you stuck...better be skinny to take the dip.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Invisible Touch (5.10d)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is the route just left of King Pin. Cool slab moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : King Pin (5.11a/b)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually thought this was fairly fun. Really delicate arete moves, especially near the top. A worth while TR for sure. If you stay on the arete the entire way and traverse at the very end (at the horizontal) it is 11b.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Sidewinder (5.10b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb on great rock (except the start is a little crumbly). I think the grade is good, but the traverse is pretty spooky...definitely heady and a PG13/R I think. Four stars!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool route, but like others I found it to be harder than 12d. The crux is the last move for me and a big move at that. Also, the route is in a cool area! check it out.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : The Sowsuckle (5.12-)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this route and found it to be fairly crumbly and not so much fun. The crux move is a very big reach and there are not many options for the feet, so you just got to huck. The lower part is by far the 'best' part.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, so here it goes. Information has leaked about a BOLT LADDER that was put up on the Bat Wall mere feet to the left of Dracula and intersecting Back to the Gym, a bold aid line. For extensive information check out the discussion on
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/86353>>>>>
This is pretty serious stuff. It isn't simply the fact of squeeze jobs, but also degrading the rock and environment as well as being completely oblivious to climbing ethics and the local climbin... more >>
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Location: OR : Madrone Wall
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: MADRONE WALL RESTORATION AND CLEAN UP.
SAT. SEPT. 27th
MEET AT CARVER SCHOOL.
10am - 1pm
OFF OF HIGHWAY 224
BE THERE FOR A NEW ERA IN PDX CLIMBING.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Let's Just Call It Kashmir ... (5.12b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the sloper "crux" it is possible to reach out right to a large hold on Critical Mass. This makes the route easier, because one can shake out and chalk up. The route through this section is therefore contrived...the grade given represents moving through the route without the hold to the right. Either way, it is still a fun and energetic route.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Lembert Dome-Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can definitely link pitches 1 and 2 together as well as 3 and 4 with a 70m. Make sure to use runners for drag.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Memo From Lloyd (5.10+)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the new Supertopo Memo From Llyod was upgraded to 11b.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Puppy Dome : Do Or Fly (5.11c)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To protect the beginning/crux you can place a #5 metolious or equivalent blindly with the right hand and then move into the lefthand crimp and right hand jam.
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