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Member Since: Aug 9, 2007
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact peachy spohn

peachy spohn
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Point Rank: # 736
Total Points: 1,069
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 2
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has peachy spohn been climbing?










Contributions


All 1026 | Routes 75 | Areas 5 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 94 | Posts 24 | Stars 774 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Count Chalkula (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: ---I redpointed this about two years ago. It may need a little brushing, but the moves are fantastic - a powerful crux to surmount the small roof and then an explosive finish to a jug! It all requires a hard smear with the right foot and some killer side-pulling/gastoning and some fun air if you miss. This route def. adds another cool test piece for locals. Thanks for posting Charlie!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Count Chalkula (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Charlie, I think that straight up variation was a crazy persons attempt to make a bolt ladder so that they could practice aid climbing. It outraged the community several years back and the bolts were quickly chopped. It was...crazy!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (7) Jungle Cliff : Oracle (5.12c)
By: peachy spohn When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Needs some cleaning, but really fun climbing!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (7) Jungle Cliff : Warlock (5.13b/c)
By: peachy spohn When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: I repeated this today and had the third bolt hanger rip out on my second go :/
I have the chain and hanger if anyone would like to replace it. To comment on the route, It is really fun. I felt that the crux was hard but not consistent with the rest of the climbing and so not pumpy or that committing to redpoint (the crux is very low on the route and if you're doing it the rest of the route will be no problem). The Oracle finish, my first time on that, has great moves but is very dirty. I hop... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (7) Jungle Cliff : Warlock (5.13b/c)
By: peachy spohn When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Way to go Alex!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Nosferatu (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: It's def. harder the Manson Family and I thought it was roughly 13a.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Nosferatu (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Charlie, I TRed this variation around 2012 with my friend Bryan Smith. I ended by traversing back into Manson. Cool that you added bolts.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Shushaynsh (5.13+ PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Way to go Mikey! Looks amazing, except for the gear. Congrats


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face
By: peachy spohn When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Two things: I left gear on Sky Fisherman - it is for a redpoint burn, so please don't remove it. And, I have started cleaning Smooth Dancer for a free ascent. It will add a great new free variation to the wall and will probably clock in around mid 5.12. I should have it ready to go by mid/late October.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Corona (5.13a/b)
By: peachy spohn When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: I was on this on 05/27/2015 and broke off the large flake just before the big pocket on the arĂȘte. I lowered off and redpointed it without the flake. Definitely harder...and involves a long lock off to a left hand gaston crimp before hitting the jug pocket. Still, very fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Arena : Shadow Warrior (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: I think you have to take all ratings with a grain of salt, but that being said I have to agree with Handren's rating. It's a great route and I hope others get on and enjoy it!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Gigantor (5.13)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Just got back on this and it is great! It is hard! It is exciting! It is Gigantor!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Slabbage Patch : Thugs In The Gym (5.12d)
By: peachy spohn When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with a very technical crux...head out left onto the slab and find the feet to get you up to that undercling! It's a really neat, unique crux, but a one move wonder. Above is not too bad at all...


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : The Conspiracy (aka Kashmir... (5.12b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: @ Micah Klesick, it appears to be called this in Mr. Olson's 2011/4th Edition to the Portland Rock Climbs. I can say that the main bolt on the climb is old and rusted and every time I clip it my heart begins to beat a little faster. Also, there is a way to escape to Critical Mass, but even by doing this escape I feel the grade is harder than 11+. If you avoid Critical Mass (yes, somewhat contrived) then the grade is stout 12b. I have been climbing it since 2008 and probably should replace t... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Nice Job Eric!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Great route! The piton is gone, but it isn't necessary: a cam (#2 Metolius) and a small stopper can be used. I also placed a small stopper in the amazing, arching, super cool dihedral.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : 10,000 Maniacs (5.11c)
By: peachy spohn When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Bouldery start but worth it for the top 2/3.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Go a Hundred (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Nothing creaky anymore...super solid. Very continuous and a huge pump! The top is somewhat dynamic and reachy .. I felt it was harder than 'you are what you is.' Yippy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11b R)
By: peachy spohn When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Amazing route! Excellent position and extremely fun moves. I would agree with the R rating as you could take long falls with the possibility of getting hurt...especially if any flake were to break. That being said the most difficult moves have bolts nearby. Loved the route!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerbrah (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: It's an OK TR, but a bit contrived? I had to slap out left to the arĂȘte that Roller Coaster uses (a bit of a lunge). The start, slabby section is good old burly crimping and involves a hard cross to a hard micro edge. It'll tear up your fingers for sure, but worth a few goes, so do it fast or leave it behind and get on something better!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Desert Shield (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: I love this route! So good! Every time it's as good as the last...WOW! Still, the upper crescents are flexy and I hope never break.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meister's Edge : The Aspirant (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: I got back on the Aspirant yesterday and have to say that it is a good route with fun moves. About three years ago it was still a bit crumbly, but that is no longer the case. Good, solid rock. It is the hardest 13a I have done at Red Rocks, so as for the grade it's tough. But it is def. worth your time. A powerful beginning (stick clip) leads to some big, fun moves and then to the Hueco rest. Shake out and go for the top crux, a sequential section that leads the route to a fun mantle.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Sky Fishermen (free variati... (5.13a PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: I freed Sky Fisherman again yesterday and I just want to say again that it is a great route! The best of the grade in PDX! One reason for climbing it so soon after my ascent, besides the fun, was that I know a few aid groups have gone up it the past couple weeks. I understand that Beacon is an aid climbing haven, but I would like to give my input -(which is probably being overly cautious as I know many of the aid climbers in the area and their ability to properly place and hammer)- and nudge a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Devaluation (5.7)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: The block is quite unnerving! I used it, but pulled as lightly as I could. I think the 5.9 variation on the right (small dihedral and lay back section) is much safer and just as fun.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Just as amazing as I remember and What a great climb. It was colder than last August and the holds were much tackier!


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