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Rock Climbing Photo: P3 CCK


Member Since: Jun 23, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Pawel

Point Rank: # 2,649
Total Points: 253
Last Year: 70
Last 30 Days: 24
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Pawel been climbing?










Contributions


All 536 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 34 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 57 | Posts 12 | Stars 230 | Ratings 199
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Alphabet Rock : Z Crack (5.10c)
By: Pawel When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Fantastic climb (doesn't seem sandbagged to me), but why give crux beta in the description and ruin the on-sight for everyone?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Men At Arms (5.10a PG13)
By: Pawel When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: No need to build an intermediate anchor. Just go all the way to the Try Again chains.

I can't decide if I like this climb: the moves are fun but you keep zigzagging left and right. I guess it's a great climb if you like making diagonal reaches.

The Trapps app has a fairly accurate picture of the line.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Duty Dome : Heart of Gold (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Agree with previous comments. Great bolting job on P3 which is so much fun. Just spaced out enough to keep you on your toes but not so much as to make it scary.

P2: just go directly right on the big horizontal crack until you see a bolt around the corner. Don't go up and right.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Warrior Wall : Weekday Warrior (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: The run-outs aren't too bad but protect well with larger pieces: I used a .75, 1 and two #2 cams. And 12 quickdraws total. Nothing to make this PG13 in my opinion.
I like this pitch because it's so long and continuous.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Eight Mile Area : JY Crag : Earthmover (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: As of 03/2016 this had been reclaimed by moss. Unclimbable until someone cleans.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Eight Mile Area : JY Crag : Janetors of Justice (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Better than it looks. Challenging slab (climbed left of the bolts and this felt solidly harder than 5.8, maybe the original line is just right of the bolts), interesting layback/stemming, cool move around the roof, than fun crack to the chains.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Nevermind Wall
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: There's three new routes to the right of the Goblet. Any beta on them?


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Nevermind Wall : Photo
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Under Arrest


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Can we get an admin in here or the page owners to clean this up a little?

1. Just Dessert + Side Dish description is of La Vida Locomotive. Can we change it?
2. Just Dessert is a separate route (left-most up to Bandit Ledge, awkward face climbing on rusty bolts, 10b)
3. Side Dish is a separate route (off Bandit Ledge, pass an initial overhang than climb a cool right facing corner, 5.9+)
4. Late for Dinner is the first route on the left off Bandit Ledge so it should be placed first in L->@SEMI... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Old Milwaukee Road (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: 14 draws if you don't skip any clips. Watch for loose rock. 60m will get you down.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side
By: Pawel When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Agree with the previous comments: the current MP description is a bit confusing, especially for someone visiting for the first time. As a minimum I would recommend reorganizing the areas/sub-areas. Relief camp, Motherland and Slabbage Patch should all go under Overhaul. Headlight point belongs under Interstate Park. Second, let's get more photos in, at least one per sub-area to help get situated. I'll try to get some next time I go.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Snoqualmie Pass Area : Exit 47 Fun Forest
By: Pawel When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know what the two bolted cracks directly in front of you when you approach from the tunnel are? They share same start, then one goes left, one right.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Snoqualmie Pass Area : Guye Peak : Improbable Traverse (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit before you can get gear in after the initial 5.8 moves on the traverse, so the follower should be fairly solid on this one.

At the end of the traverse, instead of stepping down to get to the ramp, you can also diagonal up and right on crimps. Fun, about 5.7.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Scary Area (5.12 R)
By: Pawel When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: There are currently two bolts (one bolt, one ring) on the first pitch. I don't quite undersand the logic for the second bolt as there is bomber gear immediately below and above it. On the other hand the first bolt is way to high to make this safe, even by gunks standards. In my opinion the second bolt should be transferred to below the first one. The pitch would be steller, still require guts and trad gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: Pawel When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Never had such sore calf muscles as after climbing this one! :D


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Techno-Suff (5.11d)
By: Pawel When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Easier than it looks. If you've done Simple Suff don't miss a go at this: very nice moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6) : Photo
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree with how the routes are marked in this photo. Certainly that's the right line for The Last Will be First.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Amber Waves of Pain (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Who cares if it's 9+ or 10-? The climbing is excellent and this route should not be missed!

Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: P2 has some really nice climbing, but don't get fooled by the 9++ description. It's hard to read on-sight, I think harder than P1. Like Eric said above, if you fall from the top of the crux, watch that ankle. I was fortunate enough to only get it banged up (along with rope burn and bruises;)

Fixed brown tricam protects the P2 crux though you can back it up with as much bomber gear as you want.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Such excellent climbing! The second crux is commiting but the first of the three moves is the hardest so just keep going. It's well protected by a mid-sized cam (or two if you're like me).

The variation Ivan speaks about (continue left up the arching corner instead of straight up the big moves towards MF anchors) is called Mother Bird in the new gunks app and rated 5.10d. It's a nice couple of fun moves, more like 10b than 10d.

I'm always confused about which way through the roof is Birdie Par... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Right, Groovy Direct and Space Invaders Direct are two different lines. Confusion is added by the Gunks App which shows Space Invaders Direct as Space Invaders.

Any consensus on the grade for Space Invaders Direct? I felt it easier than 10d. Gear is pumpy to place and a bit spaced but very solid and the fall is clean.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Vultures (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The Trapps app has P3 at 5.5 and that's about right. In any case it is dirty and I don't recommend it.

A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Face to Face (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: P2 is asthetic, easy to read and very well protected. I'd recommend it as a good entry level 5.10 gunks roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.7+)
By: Pawel When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Small cams (C3s) useful.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10b PG13)
By: Pawel When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Wow what a climb!!

The comments about the left and right variation starts had me confused (the two options are not described in the route description). I would say go for the left variation which has solid holds and is relatively easy (5.8?).

I didn't think the "scary" face above roof #1 was poorly protected. You have to make a thin move above gear, but the gear is solid. On the other hand I had trouble finding good gear at Roof #2 and ended up backing off. The gear is solid, but ... more >>


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