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Rock Climbing Photo: P3 CCK


Member Since: Jun 23, 2011
Last Visit: Jan 13, 2016
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Point Rank: # 3,054
Total Points: 201
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 497 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 12 | Stars 219 | Ratings 187
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Nevermind Wall
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: There's three new routes to the right of the Goblet. Any beta on them?


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Nevermind Wall : Photo
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Under Arrest


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Can we get an admin in here or the page owners to clean this up a little?

1. Just Dessert + Side Dish description is of La Vida Locomotive. Can we change it?
2. Just Dessert is a separate route (left-most up to Bandit Ledge, awkward face climbing on rusty bolts, 10b)
3. Side Dish is a separate route (off Bandit Ledge, pass an initial overhang than climb a cool right facing corner, 5.9+)
4. Late for Dinner is the first route on the left off Bandit Ledge so it should be placed first in L->@SEMI... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Old Milwaukee Road (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: 14 draws if you don't skip any clips. Watch for loose rock. 60m will get you down.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side
By: Pawel When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Agree with the previous comments: the current MP description is a bit confusing, especially for someone visiting for the first time. As a minimum I would recommend reorganizing the areas/sub-areas. Relief camp, Motherland and Slabbage Patch should all go under Overhaul. Headlight point belongs under Interstate Park. Second, let's get more photos in, at least one per sub-area to help get situated. I'll try to get some next time I go.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Snoqualmie Pass Area : Exit 47 Fun Forest
By: Pawel When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know what the two bolted cracks directly in front of you when you approach from the tunnel are? They share same start, then one goes left, one right.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Snoqualmie Pass Area : Guye Peak : Improbable Traverse (5.8)
By: Pawel When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit before you can get gear in after the initial 5.8 moves on the traverse, so the follower should be fairly solid on this one.

At the end of the traverse, instead of stepping down to get to the ramp, you can also diagonal up and right on crimps. Fun, about 5.7.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Scary Area (5.12 R)
By: Pawel When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: There are currently two bolts (one bolt, one ring) on the first pitch. I don't quite undersand the logic for the second bolt as there is bomber gear immediately below and above it. On the other hand the first bolt is way to high to make this safe, even by gunks standards. In my opinion the second bolt should be transferred to below the first one. The pitch would be steller, still require guts and trad gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: Pawel When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Never had such sore calf muscles as after climbing this one! :D


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Techno-Suff (5.11d)
By: Pawel When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Easier than it looks. If you've done Simple Suff don't miss a go at this: very nice moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6) : Photo
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree with how the routes are marked in this photo. Certainly that's the right line for The Last Will be First.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Amber Waves of Pain (5.10a)
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Who cares if it's 9+ or 10-? The climbing is excellent and this route should not be missed!

Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: P2 has some really nice climbing, but don't get fooled by the 9++ description. It's hard to read on-sight, I think harder than P1. Like Eric said above, if you fall from the top of the crux, watch that ankle. I was fortunate enough to only get it banged up (along with rope burn and bruises;)

Fixed brown tricam protects the P2 crux though you can back it up with as much bomber gear as you want.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Such excellent climbing! The second crux is commiting but the first of the three moves is the hardest so just keep going. It's well protected by a mid-sized cam (or two if you're like me).

The variation Ivan speaks about (continue left up the arching corner instead of straight up the big moves towards MF anchors) is called Mother Bird in the new gunks app and rated 5.10d. It's a nice couple of fun moves, more like 10b than 10d.

I'm always confused about which way through the roof is Birdie Par... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Right, Groovy Direct and Space Invaders Direct are two different lines. Confusion is added by the Gunks App which shows Space Invaders Direct as Space Invaders.

Any consensus on the grade for Space Invaders Direct? I felt it easier than 10d. Gear is pumpy to place and a bit spaced but very solid and the fall is clean.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Vultures (5.9 PG13)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The Trapps app has P3 at 5.5 and that's about right. In any case it is dirty and I don't recommend it.

A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Face to Face (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: P2 is asthetic, easy to read and very well protected. I'd recommend it as a good entry level 5.10 gunks roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.7)
By: Pawel When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Small cams (C3s) useful.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Pawel When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Wow what a climb!!

The comments about the left and right variation starts had me confused (the two options are not described in the route description). I would say go for the left variation which has solid holds and is relatively easy (5.8?).

I didn't think the "scary" face above roof #1 was poorly protected. You have to make a thin move above gear, but the gear is solid. On the other hand I had trouble finding good gear at Roof #2 and ended up backing off. The gear is solid, but ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Pawel When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Sweet route, gear a bit strenuous to place at the crux but I agree with previous comments that this is G.

For the top part, if you place a good cam at the ledge and you blow the "pebbles" move, you'll have a long but clean fall past the ledge.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Pawel When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: This comment is for anyone for whom, like for me, this is the first climb ever in the Valley. After reading all the previous comments about how deadly slick this one is, I was aghast. Well, turns out this one's got more friction than pretty much anything else you've ever climbed in your life, especially if you've been on basalt or limestone. I guess standards of "slick" and "greasy" vary from place to place:)

Fun first pitch!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch Direct (5.9)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I like this one a lot. Yes, careful of one or two flakes that look sketchy below the roof. But good pro in the roof before the crux move and immediately after above the lip too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Silhouette (5.7+ PG13)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Good description from Peter Lewis but I wouldn't call it R: there's good gear in the horizontal just before the 2 harder moves. Not so good gear after that but it's there hence PG-13 sounds right. Upper hands crack is awesome. One of my favorite 5.7 for sure!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctoscope (5.9+)
By: Pawel When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful, beautiful climb! Only wish the face/crack crux section were longer! Good gear (C3 and small cams). On top of that you have an unprotected offwidth start (you can avoid making it offwidth but without big gear it's still unprotected for the first 10-15ft) and classic gunks horizontals on vertical rock to finish.

PS: had heard of a fixed nut. As of 9/14 only fixed gear is a good piton at the start of the crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Balrog (5.10b)
By: Pawel When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: No fixed gear as of 9/14. Crux super well protected but bring small stuff (000 C3 or wires) for the vertical crack below the roof.


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