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Rock Climbing Photo: dangler


Member Since: Nov 30, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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paulmadry
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Point Rank: # 4,504
Total Points: 121
Last Year: 58
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has paulmadry been climbing?










Contributions


All 536 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 12 | Stars 275 | Ratings 184
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Stickit2

Stickit2

Forums : ... :

Sep 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Stickit

Stickit

Forums : ... :

Sep 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: See the Giant valley cam beghind for protection.

See the Giant valley cam beghind for protection.

NH : *Cannon Cliff : ... : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)

May 8, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: dangler

dangler

The People of Mountain Proj... : paulmadry : front photo

Aug 29, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) : Photo
By: paulmadry When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: 9 inch


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: paulmadry When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: I climbed the route in 2012 and it was there


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: The lower pitches were great, "mundane" crack pitches leading to 4th pitch of OVERHANGING CHIMNEY- something I dreamed of. The 90 foot pitch is 20-25 feet overhung when you end up at belay. 5.8???? Very little bird shit, great exposure and you need to be picky as to which hold to grab, at least on lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: I placed all 4 of smallest X4 offsets in multiple cracks on the route, including one in that red-yellow Alien slot. It looked really solid. With the offsets, it felt G-PG.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: Only did 4 pitches -pro is ok. 5th looked ok but 6th (looked at from Lab) seems quite R.
Please write reports if you climbed the route to top.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: Cow's mouth. Facing cliff you take the arching crack on left, correct? Straight up from bolt.
Looked easy, felt very tough.
The MP description says right, is it typo?


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: Has anyone done the direct finish (pitch 8th and after) in last 2 years. Any comment on pro?


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: If you want to rap after 7th pitch, I recommend doing pitch 8 of ??? (unknown route). Go right through overlap , crack and keep going up (not right as WOWS) through some slab and overlap to bolted belay ( 75 feet or so 5.10, very similar to previous slab pitches). I climbed there after my partner and we don't know what it is. There is a bolt in middle so it was climbed before. If you want to rap, I highly recommend the pitch rather than ending at ledge after 7th pitch.
The A4 pitch has a bo... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Winter (5.10+)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: The roof of spring is not R. I found a pacement for offset alien green-blue just below crux. Take it if you have it. Otherwise good pro is a foot or two lower


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Interstice (5.10d)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Yep. 2nd pitch is G, at least to the closest rap anchor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Hi Coroner! (5.9)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Yep. Don't touch the offwidth and you get PG-R. Dirty at the top but gear gets better. Not a beginner 5.9


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Creaky Joints and Trigger P... (5.10b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Small gear abundant but if top piece pops, will you stop before the ledge? Probably..


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Comedy In Three Acts (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Have a C3 000. Place it with middle lobe to left, sliding it up from the bottom. It doesn't work the other way.
Or brassies, but I didn't use them as crux protection.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Peppy's Face (5.12a R)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Can you tell me if I was off/on route?
I went straight up to 1st bolt, over it just to the right , moved to second bolt and then diagonaled up left and then straight up getting to 3rd rusty bolt (why, all other are shiny), and then moved up and slightly left with laybacking some rotten crack to mantle where 4th bolt is and then traversed right to 5th bolt and up in crack.
Or it goes up and right after 3rd bolt , yikes???


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11b R)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: I think calling it R is nonsense. Its bolted, jut not as well as in other places in RR. I admit it did make me almost shit my pants as I hate falling but its only scary , not dangerous IMHO. Getting to 1st bolt on 3rd pitch maybe a little runout but its on easy 5.8ish climbing. difficulty-wise I think its more like 11+ than 11a compared to other climbs in RR .


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Mai Tai (5.10+ R)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: ditto. not runout at all. it's PG as long as you have small gear (double black-blue aliens or equivalent)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10b/c A0+)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: bolt ladder takes literally 3 minutes for leader. need 2 slings.
Also pro is good in the upper pitches. its bolted.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Ixtlan (5.11c)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: camalot #6 fits perfectly for the third pitch to back the bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: paulmadry When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Shit is there allright. For a moment I thought that the rope was missing though. From afar looks like solo


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : South Face Route (5.8)
By: paulmadry When: Oct 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: that overlap on P3 is 5.7?


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