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dangler


Member Since: Nov 30, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact paulmadry


Point Rank: # 5,662
Total Points: 64
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has paulmadry been climbing?










Contributions


All 468 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 10 | Stars 228 | Ratings 174
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
See the Giant valley cam beghind for protection.

See the Giant valley cam beghind for protection.

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)

May 8, 2013

dangler

dangler

paulmadry : front photo

Aug 29, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Winter (5.10+)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: The roof of spring is not R. I found a pacement for offset alien green-blue just below crux. Take it if you have it. Otherwise good pro is a foot or two lower


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Interstice (5.10d)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Yep. 2nd pitch is G, at least to the closest rap anchor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Hi Coroner! (5.9)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Yep. Don't touch the offwidth and you get PG-R. Dirty at the top but gear gets better. Not a beginner 5.9


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Creaky Joints and Trigger P... (5.10b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Small gear abundant but if top piece pops, will you stop before the ledge? Probably..


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Comedy In Three Acts (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Have a C3 000. Place it with middle lobe to left, sliding it up from the bottom. It doesn't work the other way.
Or brassies, but I didn't use them as crux protection.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Peppy's Face (5.12a R)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Can you tell me if I was off/on route?
I went straight up to 1st bolt, over it just to the right , moved to second bolt and then diagonaled up left and then straight up getting to 3rd rusty bolt (why, all other are shiny), and then moved up and slightly left with laybacking some rotten crack to mantle where 4th bolt is and then traversed right to 5th bolt and up in crack.
Or it goes up and right after 3rd bolt , yikes???


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: I think calling it R is nonsense. Its bolted, jut not as well as in other places in RR. I admit it did make me almost shit my pants as I hate falling but its only scary , not dangerous IMHO. Getting to 1st bolt on 3rd pitch maybe a little runout but its on easy 5.8ish climbing. difficulty-wise I think its more like 11+ than 11a compared to other climbs in RR .


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Mai Tai (5.10+ R)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: ditto. not runout at all. it's PG as long as you have small gear (double black-blue aliens or equivalent)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: bolt ladder takes literally 3 minutes for leader. need 2 slings.
Also pro is good in the upper pitches. its bolted.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Ixtlan (5.11c)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: camalot #6 fits perfectly for the third pitch to back the bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: paulmadry When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Shit is there allright. For a moment I thought that the rope was missing though. From afar looks like solo


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : South Face Route (5.7)
By: paulmadry When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: that overlap on P3 is 5.7?


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: Could anyone comment on pro on the original Lab Wall finish (not Walk on the Wild side)?
Thanks


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : Free Ride (5.11a)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: This is the only route of such length in ADK. As such its great but not VMC direct quality (Free Ride has vegetated lower angle sections in middle). It makes sense to join pitch 1-2, 4-5, 6-7(maybe) and 8-9. For me personally the 11a sections were soft but the shield 10a/9+ felt sandbagged (disclaimer: I never climb bolted faces). The enduro corner was crux for me. I joined it with previous 11a pitch and the double rope weight/drag + lots of dirt/moss in the corner made it hard to protect or e... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Badfinger (5.9+ PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: 5.9+ for me with an accent on the +.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Say no to gang roping the classics. It's not fair. Many of us travel long ways to "click off" some best routes. But then there are groups of permanent lifelong topropers who know how to get up early. Today when I asked when i can go up a route, the reply was: there's 4 more people and then we'd like to......They apparently started hours earlier and had 3 or 4 top ropes. WTF?
I would think that after 30-60 min each top rope should go down. Let's start a revolution!!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss Cross Direct (5.10a)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: There is no good reason to avoid pitch 2 (5.9?). There is a stretch of maybe 10-12 feet with no pro on a 5.7 face. It's PG if you do the route in one longer pitch. Maybe that's why the belay was disassembled. I'd think that relaying on the piton at the start of pitch 1 is more R than the 2nd pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I'd tape up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Tetonia (5.10b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I actually stepped left of the arÍte below the lower bulge on mr G (and maybe also above) to place pro, which in my opinion is recommended. The rock on the right of the arÍte is serous. But I also finished on le Teton instead to the left of it.... Need to do it again!


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: This a very non-physical climb at the grade (with two short strenuos sections). I assume that the old aid bolts were replaced with shiny new ones and the route has a feel of a sport route at times. After the last 5.11 section left traverse, from the ledge we went slightly right but mostly straight up for a pitch (to s multibolt belay) and seeing end of difficulties rapped down with double rope. I initially graded it as G but after repeating it recently I'd say its 5.11G but 5.9+ R. The pro or bo... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Golden Showers (5.11a PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: I must say 5.11 for people 5.9 or shorter. If I had an extra 2 inches of reach I'd rate it 5.10+. I fell on a black alien placed in the seam.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : April Showers (5.11a/b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: I would grade it 5.11- as the crux is right off the deck -- you have enough time to evaluate, and unlimited attempts. I remember doing something like a side pull with a high step. The rest seemed definitely less than 11.


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