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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think calling it R is nonsense. Its bolted, jut not as weel as in other places in RR. I admit it did make me almost shit my pants as I hate falling but its only scary , not dangerous IMHO. Getting to 1st bolt on 3rd pitch maybe a little runout but its on easy 5.8ish climbing. difficulty-wise I think its more like 11+ than 11a compared to other climbs in RR .
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Mai Tai (5.10+ R)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ditto. not runout at all. it's PG as long as you have small gear (double black-blue aliens or equivalent)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: bolt ladder takes literally 3 minutes for leader. need 2 slings.
Also pro is good in the upper pitches. its bolted.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Ixtlan (5.11c)
By: paulmadry When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: camalot #6 fits perfectly for the third pitch to back the bolts.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: paulmadry When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shit is there allright. For a moment I thought that the rope was missing though. From afar looks like solo
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : South Face Route (5.7)
By: paulmadry When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: that overlap on P3 is 5.7?
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could anyone comment on pro on the original Lab Wall finish (not Walk on the Wild side)?
Thanks
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : Free Ride (5.11a)
By: paulmadry When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the only route of such length in ADK. As such its great but not VMC direct quality (Free Ride has vegetated lower angle sections in middle). It makes sense to join pitch 1-2, 4-5, 6-7(maybe) and 8-9. For me personally the 11a sections were soft but the shield 10a/9+ felt sandbagged (disclaimer: I never climb bolted faces). The enduro corner was crux for me. I joined it with previous 11a pitch and the double rope weight/drag + lots of dirt/moss in the corner made it hard to protect or e... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Badfinger (5.9+ PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.9+ for me with an accent on the +.
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Location: NY : The Gunks
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Say no to gang roping the classics. It's not fair. Many of us travel long ways to "click off" some best routes. But then there are groups of permanent lifelong topropers who know how to get up early. Today when I asked when i can go up a route, the reply was: there's 4 more people and then we'd like to......They apparently started hours earlier and had 3 or 4 top ropes. WTF?
I would think that after 30-60 min each top rope should go down. Let's start a revolution!!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss Cross Direct (5.10a)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no good reason to avoid pitch 2 (5.9?). There is a stretch of maybe 10-12 feet with no pro on a 5.7 face. It's PG if you do the route in one longer pitch. Maybe that's why the belay was disassembled. I'd think that relaying on the piton at the start of pitch 1 is more R than the 2nd pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd tape up.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Tetonia (5.10b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually stepped left of the arête below the lower bulge on mr G (and maybe also above) to place pro, which in my opinion is recommended. The rock on the right of the arête is serous. But I also finished on le Teton instead to the left of it.... Need to do it again!
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: paulmadry When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This a very non-physical climb at the grade (with two short strenuos sections). I assume that the old aid bolts were replaced with shiny new ones and the route has a feel of a sport route at times. After the last 5.11 section left traverse, from the ledge we went slightly right and up for a pitch and seeing end of difficulties rapped down with double rope. I initially graded it as G but after repeating it recently I'd say its 5.11G but 5.9+ R. The pro or boltsare there but would not stop you fro... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Golden Showers (5.11a PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must say 5.11 for people 5.9 or shorter. If I had an extra 2 inches of reach I'd rate it 5.10+. I fell on a black alien placed in the seam.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : April Showers (5.11a/b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would grade it 5.11- as the crux is right off the deck -- you have enough time to evaluate, and unlimited attempts. I remember doing something like a side pull with a high step. The rest seemed definitely less than 11.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: paulmadry When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish I read Dennis's report above about the fallen hold. The initial slab on the right was ouch, especially if you don't put any pro. I did the route a few years ago and it seemed more enjoyable, maybe because of the hold was there - I never remember any beta details, but maybe I got fatter.
My question is: where is the R section above the first roof? I'd say initial slab may be R but not after. Also, after the crux roof #2 should I go up/right or up/left?
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Bits and Pieces (5.11a/b)
By: paulmadry When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Orange backcountry soft-shell? I brought it down only to realize it was sun bleached and holly. 1 year of sun and wind exposure was too much.
As for the route it's a bit discontinuous at the beginning but then is great I'd give it G protection. And the second crux is quite unusual.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: paulmadry When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think there is nothing pg13 about this route. Maybe feels pg at the beginning of second pitch (only if you worry that sandstone bolts are iffy, because you are above first bolt). Fun route to take your mind of protection in Zion.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't belive that a roof like that is 5.10b
WOW!!!
Just don't get sucked into traversing far right at second overhand- i did (there is a well chalked up, good holds horizontal). Just a bit right of the bolt and reach.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Spring (P1) (5.9)
By: paulmadry When: Aug 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or go straight up and do 2nd pitch of winter as in the new guidebook. Spicy move on the face with good pro below it. Just trust that a hold will show up once you get on the face.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: paulmadry When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone done it via the arete (i think it's Mister G). It would make it into full length pitch of superexposed 5.8-5.9 (that overall feels more like 5.10 I guess).
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