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Location: NC : Laurel Knob
By: Paul Shultz When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the Alpinist 25 article on it!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Rhododendron (5.6)
By: Paul Shultz When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much better then Laurel at left. Fun moves!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Jane (5.7+)
By: Paul Shultz When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun up to the ceiling, and a few moves above the ceiling. I actually used the first tree, maybe 50 feet up, but don't regret it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Paul Shultz When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good climb.
A big tip, a gold camalot is not the best piece of gear to use the first move. Instead, stick a blue TCU in the pin scar less than 2 feet above the pocket for the gold cam.
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: Paul Shultz When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More routes have gone up in the last several weeks. The guys who do a lot of the route setting are going to be working on topos and possibly a website.
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Location: WA : Mazama
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tiny little town. Hit up the general store. They have great home made food. Great salsa especially! Also go to Winthrop, maybe a half hour drive and go to the pizza place near the Hardware and Grocery stores.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed here on the way back to Bellingham from the Bugaboos. I didn't do to many routes but its a gorgeous setting and I'd love to go back!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: #4 Camalot recommended for going through the roof. a #3 will work, but a 4 is much better. One of the best routes I've ever done anywhere. You're surprised how good the holds are on the second pitch and they just keep going!
As for the rappel, if you're using 2 ropes, can definitely be done in 2 rappels instead of 3.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : BB Route (5.8+)
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, very tricky to rappel clean if your belayer or second can't make it. All the holds are there, just have to go for it!
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: Paul Shultz When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alright climbing. bolts are in good shape are replaced when needed. Wear a helmet! this is an old quarry and I've seen my climbing partner shift 2 coffee table size flakes no problem. Giant wall gets great sun and on a 40 degree sunny day can be quite enjoyable to climb. Does have some ice in winter, though top roping is sketchy to rig. Lower slabs have a tendency to be wet but offer some fun climbs.
BEWARE! Some rock is reglued!
Definitely not best climbing spot in the world, but one of th... more >>
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Location: PA : Ralph Stover (High Rocks) S...
By: Paul Shultz When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After my second experience at High Rocks, I don't think I'll be going back. After 50+ years of climbing, everything is super polished. Maybe I'm spoiled with alpine granite and shawangunk conglomerate? I would recommend Allamuchy State Park, Chickie's rock in Lancaster County and Birdsboro Quarry, which is pretty loose, but you have friction so wear a helmet and on belay!
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Location: PA : Ralph Stover (High Rocks) S... : Tango Wall : Tango (5.8 PG13)
By: Paul Shultz When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off.
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