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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : IF (5.9 C3-)
By: Paul Ross When: 11 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Good Show Slim... I have a feeling you would not like the wide bit on the climb IF ? however it would be a second ascent !I will take pics.. Cheers
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : IF (5.9 C3-)
By: Paul Ross When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: We have to clean it off for the "free" shouting "take" climbers .However I am not sure if you one pitch climbers can handle it ? But if you do fancy your chances its all yours.I would be delighted to watch....PS To Slim Jim....No sport climbing at Shelf Road is way too SAFE.....To Nooky ..don't hold you breath about those guys freeing anything down here!!!!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : The Pot Holes Area : Ghost Dancer Spire (C1+)
By: Paul Ross When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Go to it, lads...you're almost there. It is a LOT more solid than the Palisade piles of choss...sending a few more pics.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Super Chimney (5.10+)
By: Paul Ross When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the couple of bolts or so from the shoulder was chopped by Jimmie after Greg Childs had freed it.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Paul Ross When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOL, I am just winding you up lads. You know just high grades do not make a memorable climb, and I wonder how many of the routes mentioned by Richard were climbed without lots of practice, lots of hang dogging, and lots and lots of shouts of take, illustrating the climb is above the true ability of the climber.... I think you realize that this is not possible on runout climbs ground up on sight. I have done quite a few sport routes (e.g. boring Rifle) granted not 5.12s, even a few FAs. I think y... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : The Weasel Formation : Devastator Tower (5.9+) : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The exposure is desperate...
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: O.G.Jones leading
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Paul Ross When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To Astclmbr: Thanks for your advice...it does sound a bit boring and noisy. I'm sure you agree, as with my own experience when you climb one line of bolts you have climbed them all, but it is a very safe way to have a bit of fun. To Jason: I assume you really mean kick dogs not donkey's? Overall, the major problem with the remote trad climbing areas is that no one can see when you remove your shirt, and sadly many climbers have to drop their standard from 5.11 to 5.7, so I do understand.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Paul Ross When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never been to this place as it sounds like a bit of a crowded zoo. Just received this email from a friend who was there this 09 November weekend :-"I ended up doing some sport climbing at a place called Shelf Road. There are A LOT of bolts out there. Bolts 4' apart, bolts in cracks, bolts on bolts, bolts everywhere. Its truly is no fear climbing. I was able to get up stuff I would never try in the real world!"....Is this an accurate description of the area? I am wondering why so many people and ... more >>
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : The Slabs : Interloper (5.10c R)
By: Paul Ross When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amusing how grades have jumped over the years as climbers have become more conservative.When Mike Heintz and myself did the first ascent in 1977 of pitch three we graded it 5.6 (now 5.8R) and the Crux pitch four we graded 5.9 (now 5.10c).See description in 1978 Ross/Ellms guide.If NH climbers would like some runout slab practice we suggest they make a trip to the Eastern Reef area of the San Rafael Swell,Utah.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Requiem (5.12+ A0 PG13)
By: Paul Ross When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good one... looks like a great route up a neglected tower ...and so near Moab . Yes Jimmy Dunn ,Billy Rothstein and I did the first ascent of this tower October 1999. We graded our route 5.10 A2... left of yours ..looks like the same start? Cheers Paul Ross
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Little Spotted Wolf Canyon ... : The Great North Ridge (5.6)
By: Paul Ross When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would not recommend this route if you have not climbed there and used to slab climbing.. Try 1000'of Fun if you want to experience a moderate route.I myself am not familiar with the term PG13 , many routes below 5.7 are run out
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : The British Are Coming (5.9 A3)
By: Paul Ross When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No Problem . If anyone these days is interested in the history of NH FA's . Many of the multi pitch routes of the early climbs on the three major cliffs the leading of pitches were shared regardless of whose name was listed first.The Mines of Moria is but one example
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : The British Are Coming (5.9 A3)
By: Paul Ross When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your a bit mixed up mate . The British Are Coming FA was by Paul Ross Hal Wilkins and Rosie Andrews May 31 1972
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Mellow Yellow (5.8)
By: Paul Ross When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After a 3rd ascent on Sept 11th 2009 this route has been revised
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arch Canyon : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The quality of the rock on both these towers... Dreamspeaker on the left and Dreamcatcher on the right.... gave us no problems when we climbed a new route on both.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Super Chimney (5.10+)
By: Paul Ross When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appears that this description is not of the original route . The original route started the chimney from its left side.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi. If that block is so loose why not kick it into space ? ..its part of the fun of FA's
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Friction Slab : The Turner Prize Tower (5.8 C1)
By: Paul Ross When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You should see the bolt ladders in Rifle, and lots of smells....Here many climbers seem to practice aid climbing with sometimes bits of free in between bolts the only difference they do not use aiders.I also notice lots of aid climbing on the so called free crack climbing of Indian Creek. So aid climbing is still alive and well,more so among Sport climbers and the Sport/Trad crack climbing areas of Indian Creek.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Curiosity Killed The Cat (5.9+) : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well believe it or not this very large rock is not made of styrofoam, gravity also helps.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Persistence. (5.11) : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the info . These are not one pitch sport routes and are done from the ground up . We carry enough crap on our backs what with the drill ,bolts ,hammer,other normal stuff , etc etc. We have rapped back down these slabs literarily hundreds of times on webbing and believe it or not we are still alive, other climbers have also survived. As another example of no risk climbing I guess we could really go to town and chip off every sharp flake on climbs that would cut a rope IF a fall was ta... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Persistence. (5.11) : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If your that nervous a climber ,and If you ever you want try these routes just take along some sport chains and add another few bolts to the belay if you want,and do let me know when you hear of a problem with the webbing.As a standard practice I do mention to take slings on these climbs so if of a nervous disposion one can add or replace anchors with new webbing or even in your case chains.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : The Weasel Formation : Live Free or Die Tower (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Paul Ross When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes this is how one can feel after doing a route longer than today's norm of 20' to 60' !!!
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : The Weasel Formation
By: Paul Ross When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi. Have not been on that Northern summit of the Weasel where I assume your register will be located.The only repeat of climbs I know of in this area is of the Belfry Tower via Brits in the Belfry route.
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Location: International : Morocco
By: Paul Ross When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree it depends on what part of Morocco you are in . The big towns are a bit of a hassle but that applies to most countries. I did stay in a good hotel in Tafroute (about $30 a night per person ) ,but sleep would be more accurate I had all my meals in town and got to know many of the locals really well .They seem to like Americans and Brits,apart from one US citizen that they kept a very careful eye on who originated from Texas.Hope more examples of routes are posted .Go for it Rob.
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