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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Isn't Life Strange (5.11c)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have a 60m follow the above advice, but tie knots in the rope to be sure. You can't reach the big dead pine ledge with a 60 at all. We tied stopper knots in our 60m rope and the climber just untied 10' up and downclimbed a bit, so we could hang out at the big dead pine ledge.
Awesome climbing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott ... (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe not the best route for someone who's limit is around 5.9 to lead. You probably could sink some gear in before the first bolt and after the third there is a crack to the right that would take some finger/mid sized pieces....though it looked a bit like a flake.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch... (5.10a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom section has some CLASSIC super awkward, strange, flared Lumpy jams, but sews up well. The RP traverse is NOT for the timid, hence we bailed.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good face climbing, edging shoes would be much better then crack shoes on this pitch. I had to do a lot of mini liebacks on P2 instead of climbing it straight on as some of the locks aren't so great. Cool climb.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the approach was ok. If you are fine with a bit of boulder hopping and a bit of bushwacking - not all that bad and not that long from the trail to the wall. I would not describe it as henious personally. Follow Ivan's recommendations to find the open slope which is a bit loose. This seems the best way down into the ravine.
This wall isn't for everyone: if you are into runout, scary 5.10 and above trad climbing definitely visit here (and really 5.11 and above to make the visit wo... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Pigs On The Wing (5.11)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This goes from #1's to #2's above the roof then to .4-#1 with a final hand jam right before the finish. Awesome route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Way Rambo primer crack. Place a cam as far out on the traverse as you can and punch it to the vertical crack...don't stop to place too many cams on the traverse as I did, pump out and blow your onsight like I did.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Brain Damage (5.10+)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a 4.5 Camalot (new #5 would also work) for the bottom. I also used a #3.5 and a #4 higher up...otherwise it was all #2's, and #3's. There are several other wide pods to work through. You will definitely need two ropes to TR or rap this route. We were able to pass the knot while the follower was resting on the big ledge 1/3 the way up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Wish You Were Here (5.11)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb protects with a varied rack, but bring 2-4 black aliens for the bottom section (small wires might also help).
If you are not psyched to lead the thin crack at the bottom, you can TR this climb by finishing Run Like Hell and then swinging/traversing over to the top of Wish You Were Here and climbing the last 20'. Just make sure to place some directionals.
Fun, thin balancy climbing with lots of face holds. Didn't seem 5.11 to me, especially compared to the 5.11 cracks here.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crack eats ropes very easily. Try to get your rope running in a straight line as much as possible. Place your cams selectively and use runners to avoid a zig-zag.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt very hard for a 5.9. Think more 5.10...short but it has some thin hands followed by wide hands. Not THAT much easier than wavy gravy for me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those trying to onsight don't read further:
My gear was as follows: #1 (Camalot) in the crack above the belay, then #0.75 or smaller cams/nuts after that in the dihedral. #1 or 2 (with a long runner) in the same crack once you gain the slab, then a #2 to start the second crack, #0.75 higher, then a great, mid-sized nut and yellow Alien just above the lip right before you set off onto the slab. After that I found it pretty hard to place gear...though you can ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The thin 'alternate' crack out left at the second crux seems more 5.9+ than the main crack to me. I did climb this after many months solely in the gym bouldering (so crack climbing felt alien), however I thought the second crux was a 5.10 move to lieback, smear, and gain the jugs. Sure repeating it on TR afterwards it didn't feel that bad, but trying to onsight this climb is pretty difficult if you are thinking 5.9+ (and you climb around that grade on trad). Think OLD school grading, make sur... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Get on it...the P2 dihedral is incredible. With footwork and body positioning you can eliminate a great deal of the pump.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best cracks in BoCan IMHO. Get pro in on the 10d start early as it is hard to place through the crux section and you are right above the deck. Awesome varied crack on the second pitch. No gimme for a 5.9 leader. You might want a double set if cams on this one to sew it up or bring a few hexes. A #4 can be placed, but not required. It varies a lot though so a single set of nuts, cams will suffice if confident on 5.9 crack.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To make it even more 'safe' you can place a red Alien in a small pod at the jugs between bolt 3 and 4 eliminating a big swing right if you fall clipping the 4th bolt. Also a #4 Camalot and a green Alien protects the climbing to reach the first bolt if you come straight up from the tree. The #4 is really just to protect going through the choss to get to the green Alien. You probably can fifth class it in from the right as well. Excellent climb on solid rock.
I had a totally re... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner sent the lower crux this way: right hand on the undercling...left hand up left to a small 2 finger lip that is sharp. Right foot on tiny dime edge and after moving the left foot up to an ok smear throws with right hand to the sloper. I could get the left hand 2 finger hold, but then couldn't release the undercling...might try the other beta here and skip this crap 2 finger hold.
Not using heel hooks on the upper section would be stout.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start is a bit dicey be careful. Good red Alien placement as your first piece...I was chatting with my belayer and unexpectedly fell...lucky I wasn't added to the Calypso accident list.
Seemed about the same as the Bastille Crack to me....or a bit easier. 5.7 - mostly for going through the roof section and up the following corner. The first corner felt 5.5ish. Sustained 5.6? It just sounds strange.
For me this is typical Eldo stupidity...just put a bolt to protect the start and save the m... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Suparete (5.11a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is already a "useless" bolt at the top of this climb. Why not add a second with rings so that this can be easily TR'ed, cleaned, and rapped from? Yeah there is the tree to the right to rap from, but you can't see this bolt from the ground at all and why wear on the tree. Slings on the tree are visible from the approach trail.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm giving this a 5.10a rating, but not for the crux on P4, but on P1...it felt hard. Maybe it is just 5.9+, but felt way harder than the upper crux. If you can hand jam well then the upper section will feel relatively straightforward, if not I can see it feeling 5.10.
I think 2 #2 Camalots are sufficient, though I also placed a #3 somewhere. You don't need Friends, Camalots fit just fine. Great jamming, but too bad that section isn't a full rope length...then it would be classi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Regular Route (5.11b)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this in the evening of a mid 90's day. Not much grease. I'm from the East though so perhaps I just don't notice....however I didn't slick out of everything. Great movement and great crack practice. You can set up a TR here and run laps easily.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiger Direct (5.11d)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third bolt above the roof is indeed very hard to clip. I took a nice long one today. Your feet will just cut unexpectedly on this route. I fell 3 times on my two RP attempts and none were from being pumped...all just feet sliding off. One was really because I botched the sequence at the start of the sidepull action.
The crux moves seem pretty sequential, though there are a few ways to do it.
The roof didn't seem hard and there is a great foot out right after you pull up that you can ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Persistent Vegetative State (5.10b)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Thor for bolting this great route. Super fun.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Red Wall (5.10)
By: Paul Hunnicutt When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually really enjoyed this route. It would have been much better if 3 things were changed:
1. The Camel descent blows. At least I thought so. I would have much rather have brought shoes and just enjoyed a hike on the hiking trail back to Chasm Lake to our packs...especially as we had nice weather.
2. Belaying off the "Death" Flake isn't so much fun and I thought that you should either belay about 15' below it at a small ledge or run your belay higher as Josh indicated. However, the p... more >>
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