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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: 16 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey thanks Remo. You HAVE to get on this thing. SO amazing!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Paul Dieterle When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm going to assume this is not recommended
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Chris and Sweaty! Yeah thanks again for the directions. We figured 3 hours of walking up and down the talus fields in search of it was enough.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: A "scary project" no more. FA Paul Dieterle (assuming it wasn't done before). Happy-Go Highball is the best name for it. I'd say it's more like 25 feet than 20, but that's splitting hairs really.
The route starts on two decently sized jugs 5-10 feet right of the arete. One is at eye height, the other about 18 inches up and left of the other. From there, you use a series of sharp incuts and a key 2 finger undercling crimp to get to a rest jug about 2 feet left of the arete. Then, using a seam on... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Alpine Club (V9)
By: Paul Dieterle When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn how much chalk do you need on the second hold? I could chalk up on that tick mark!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: oh, in that case...right on!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gee, I guess I didn't realize commenting on a sweet boulder problem proj at the lake (comparing it to one of the best places to boulder in the world) would be so unacceptable.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Son Of Great Chimney (5.11c) : Photo
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NU climbing does rock!!! I want to do Coup d'Etat, but I really want to onsight it, so maybe in a few weeks (NY next week) or next spring. I have about 10 other things I also want to do (trad and bouldering) so we'll see. As for wearing the shirt, no comment.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Happy-Go Highball (V5 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Rhoads. I've gotta see it at least. Looks like a good step towards stuff in Bishop
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Son Of Great Chimney (5.11c) : Photo
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha thanks guys. I almost blew it at the top, but the thoughts of a 20 foot whipper kept me on. As for rockstar...I wish.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Son Of Great Chimney (5.11c)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did it w/o pins and it felt super solid. My pro went grey alien, offset green/blue alien+number 7 BD nut in horizontal, blue alien, black mastercam, green alien, purple alien. Easily the best route I've ever been on and, though I don't claim to be a DL hardman/master, the best route at the lake in my opinion. Rhoads and I were talking about it and we both seem feel Pete's ascent is almost to the point of myth. I'm glad I was even able to do a route he did!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pidgeon (5.11b R) : Photo
By: Paul Dieterle When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, it was so windy. But then I got in the sun and had to take it off because I was baking.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pidgeon (5.11b R)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this badboy today. I'm with Rhoads on the heel. Felt like mid 5.11-harder than T-Fare for me. Probably broken ankles if you fell off the top of the crux as there is a rail right where you would land. Also, the no hands kneebar at the top is amazing-a great way to finish off such a freaky route. As far as gear, I used a yellow alien, (overcammed) #3 c4, #6 BD stopper, and red/grey/yellow aliens (in the horizontal) in that order.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Wild West Homo (5.11a PG13)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: what gear did you guys use to lead this?
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Boat Landing Boulders : Out Past Curfew (V4)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah man, it's sick. I got SO close to flashing Grounded for Life. But overall, I found the movement on this way more smooth and natural. It could still use a bit of cleaning...
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Boat Landing Boulders : Out Past Curfew (V4)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite problems in the park. I recommend more than one pad for the top. It felt about as hairy as Natural Highs, but I flashed it so it wasn't as familiar
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Boat Landing Boulders : Grounded For Life (V5)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: SO CLOSE TO FLASHING IT. AGHHH!!!!
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Danny's Imaginary Boulders : Illusions Area : Natural Highs Come a Whole ... (V3 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Remo...editing tricks rock. John, I tend to agree with you the more I think about it. A direct version will undoubtedly supersede this route one day.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that must be the eliminate version
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Danny's Imaginary Boulders : Illusions Area : Natural Highs Come a Whole ... (V3 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Danny's Imaginary Boulders : Illusions Area : Natural Highs Come a Whole ... (V3 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks guys. I've been syked on this for awhile now and I hope it sees more ascents soon. I'd be glad to donate beta. To clarify, Natural Highs goes out to the right arete to gain the slab. The first part of the face just didn't go due to lack of feet, although I would be VERY impressed if someone tackled it. Felt as doubtful as some V10 moves in Bishop that I tried (albeit with two bomber arms). How high is this face you talk of, Chris? Also, how difficult? I feel like V5 is about my limit. V3 ... more >>
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Danny's Imaginary Boulders : Illusions Area : Natural Highs Come a Whole ... (V3 X)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Remo! It definitely needs more traffic, but for me it was great. The grade is kinda questionable. I'm not sure of it because one of the crux moves was lefty. Felt like V4 and took me as many tries as Get The Hell Out Of Dodge, but I kind of compensated for that. Could be as easy as V2. In any case, it was a great climb and one of my proudest moments climbing thus far
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Epiphany (5.9)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: BOOOOOOO!!!! Absolutely HATED this one. Looks good, climbs bad.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Cracking Up (5.6)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I walked my biggest cam up continuously. the sequence was as follows; layback move, layback move, hike feet up, walk cam, repeat as necessary. Should see more traffic. Better than Foreplay for sure and I thought it was less fun than Curving Crack (albeit on different rock with some slight differences in style)
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Michael's Project (5.7)
By: Paul Dieterle When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some easy/moderate routes I'd never get bored of (Peter's Proj, Orgasm, Curving Crack, Double Overhang, etc.). This is most certainly NOT on that list. I didn't have any problem bouldering the bottom 10 feet of it, it's just that the movement is so...extraterrestrial. I tend to agree more with Jay (2 bombs) than with the "4 star, ultra classic, first route" crowd. Time is better spent on Orgasm, Foreplay, Peter's, etc.
Simply put, I probed it once, and it was 2 times to many.
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