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Location: AZ : Hackberry Dome
By: Paul Davidson When: 16 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Keep in mind, this wall is on private ranch land.
No idea who owns it now but originally the rancher was ok with letting us climb there as long as:
Don't drive in a night, it spooks his cattle. His cattle are very testy and spook easily. You need to be sure that you do not park between the road in and the water tank (if it is still there) because the cows then won't go to water until you leave.
Oh yeah, last I knew, most of the FAs were done in mid 70s -early 80s by Flag climbers. Baxter an... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude !
All those years of making fun of my helmet...
I know you have a hard head, but seriously,time to go buy one.
The new Black Diamond are so light, you might not even notice.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guess you don't get the humor or maybe you're too close to the climb ? Personally, Pernell made me lmao with that statement.
He's saying, go lead it without the bolts (tough guys) and then...
Of course, bolts next to cracks is a departure from almost 50 years of Sedona ethics. But, things change, grades grow, ethics evolve (devolve some would say) and more importantly from my limited perspective, the gear in that crack looks like it might be pretty bad.
So, I'm with Pernell, if some Trottin... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Finger Rock : Finger Rock (Standard Route... (5.8)
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guess Rick gets another trophy for Az FA climbing knowledge!
That's an awesome piece of history Don!
Thanks.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : The Easy Chair (5.9-)
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't see this done very often, at least I haven't.
Done it twice on lead and seen one party TR it.
Bit of a long walk for one pitch...
Good pitch to do on your way down from the top and you're not done yet.
Or after a hang at the front port.
It's somewhat unique for the Mnt.
Over the years, I've heard many folks call this a sandbag.
It's certainly got it's moments.
It's not what you want to stick a rookie 5.9 leader on.
Maybe cams reduce the error factor since it's a lot easier to plug a... more >>
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Mt. Hayden - South Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possibly the most spectacular summit in the ditch. Certainly one of the best.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Sly's Idea (5.11b)
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, DLA is probably the most direct and best way to get there.
I think now that what Kyle was trying to say was you can access it from any climb on the cliff's right side. As I recall, you can probably get to this by walking down from above. It's on one of the small upper headwalls?
It's no where near the Flying Buttress, in terms of linked pitches.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Hotline (aka Hiccup Del... (5.10)
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hiccup Delux ?
Wonder where cramer got that, it was always the Hotline as far back as I can remember.
One of the best "moderate" routes up the FB.
Of course, anything ending on Reunion is a classic.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Grand Orcaface Tower : Maid in the Shade (5.8+ C1-2 R) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, it would Greg.
You could even add Firecat if you wanted more of a challenge.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Rappel Route (5.10c)
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Gordy:
Now that you ring my memory, I believe I have mixed up Wind Sand and Stars which is the FFA of Tim and Bobbi I am thinking about. It's the thin stuff to the left of the rap route.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome : Abracadaver (5.11a) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve Grossman always considered this pitch to be the real crux of Abra. I don't know, all 4 of the first pitches have their own spice.
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster - NE Arete (5.9)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Grade III in the same sense the NIAD is a Grade III.
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Location: AZ : Homestead : Finland and Tufa City
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this area was sedimentary Limestone?
Also water soluable and so should be avoided after rains.
Isn't Tufa closer to Travertine than Limestone?
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Grand Orcaface Tower : Maid in the Shade (5.8+ C1-2 R) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climbs Rick.
Pic also shows Screaming Basengi to the right (climb the obvious chimney on the east side, opposite side of what's seen here.)
Taller tower just up and behind Firecat is Teaser.
An excellent intro to Sedona towers but a bit of a walk for 1 or 2 pitches.
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Location: AZ : Winslow Wall : The Hanging Judge (5.12a)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well Luis, I wouldn't take my memory as gospel.
It could have been Larry, but I think it was Tim.
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster - NE Arete (5.9)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somehow a bunch of fixed tat in the big ditch seems very wrong.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Downtown : Twilight Zone (5.11- PG13) : Photo
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So...
that's where my drilled #9 went.
Nice pic Mark, who took it ?
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Sly's Idea (5.11b)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kyle, off the flying buttress ?
Maybe if you went down Coke Bottle, then up Deep Yogurt you'd be able to access it, but the pitch is really up above Chue Hoi. Don't see how you'd access that off of the FB. What am I missing?
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Rappel Route (5.10c)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Tim Coats and Bobbi Bensman.
I believe the second pitch FA was earlier by Gordy Douglas and Scott Baxter.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome : Jabberwocky (5.12a R)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe RR gave this the name JabberwockY.
One of you tukson boyz should ask him.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Slide Action Traction (5.10+)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, a bit spicy, classic GM route.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Into The Wild (5.12a)
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re-reading a TR of this climb, made me wonder,
did Chris and John find some Roma Rambler gear ?
Pretty odd sounding pins. Show them to Scott and see if recognizes them?
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : Brazos Cliffs
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was tempted to just say, yes.
Since both approaches to the Wedge involve crossing private land and both have sets of watchful land owners, and since it's fairly wild country in here, publishing specific directions is problematic
Both approaches are pretty obvious.
We didn't have any trick beta. Nor do I think you could even come up with any. You hump in there, you climb, the descent is via the East side of the Wedge, it's a total walk down.
I have no idea of how to describe the approaches. ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Standard S Route (5.6)
By: Paul Davidson When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Welcome Reed !
Thanks for posting the historical info.
Please continue...
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Paul Davidson When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure about Born of Water, but every other route I know about on Babo has been put up ground up. It's not exactly a sport climbing area...
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